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Senior Member
Sep 23, 2014
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To me, there is no substantial difference between the way HW and GYW shoes feel or wear out (in some cases, HW has felt a bit stiffer than GYW and took longer to break in. But, it was nothing that significant).
I watched a maker (no one well known) make a pair of HW shoes once, and, I admired his craftsmanship.
So for me, buying HW shoes is all about supporting makers who use traditional techniques rather than machines.
To each his own, I guess…


Senior Member
Nov 17, 2017
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Sad to hear you are discontinuing the Carlos Santos line, but this offered a unique opportunity for me to add a classic pair of black cap toe oxfords to my collection. Hope I got the right size. Only had a pair of CS on the 160 last, which ran pretty long. I ordered down half a size in the 234 last.


Distinguished Member
Apr 2, 2008
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For me the differences between HW and Goodyear are significant enough that I'm exclusively buying HW when there is an option. But I'm not throwing out my Lobbs and cordovan Aldens. As they need replacing, I'll do so with StC, Bonafe, Scafora (thanks Skoaktiebolaget) and other Hungarian and Italian makers.


Distinguished Member
Sep 18, 2008
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Prior to any unnecessary speculation I will comment on topics that some of you may have taken note of.

Carlos Santos - yes we are discontinuing this brand. Not a chock to anyone I think. We introduced CS as an instep alternative to mid range makers as Carmina (. However, as we introduced Löf & Tung, the Carlos Santos brand has lost almost all appeal to our clients. For just a tad bit more, you can get what I feel is a lot more value for money by going to Löf & Tung. I am of course monstrously biased but I think a lot of you will agree.

Paolo Scafora - yes all of our PS stock is on sale and the brand will be discontinued. I am sad to let this maker go as I both enjoy the product a lot and and consider Paolo a friend. Any placed MTOs will of course be honored.

Generally speaking the "Golden Age" is behind us (veterans of Styleforum will know what I am referring to) and the time to introduce new exciting brands to an audience is much harder today than it was five years ago. People are not as inclined to jump on hand made shoes at €1000 as they were some years ago while mid and instep makers are making an impact.

Will Skoaktiebolaget turn into a single brand Löf & Tung store? No, we will continue to be a small, personal multi brand store focusing on European craftsmanship and bench made / hand made shoes.

EDIT: clarification needed
I tried Scaforas but their instep was too low for me. Great shoes and if they fit you you should take advantage of the sale. Also, I think that Scaforas price point is not good for Skoakotiobelaget clientele. You can get a really good value from Löf & Tung in low hundreds $$$ if you want to go big then for a few hundred $$$ more, you can get St. Crispin or John Lobb.
BTW, @Leaves is right a few years ago Paolo Scaforas would be flying off the shelves.


Distinguished Member
May 16, 2015
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ZeRo difference in comfort or longevity GYW versus HW over multiple examples of each. Number one factor in comfort is how well the last mimics the dimensions of your foot. Number 2 is materials. HW has practically nothing to do with comfort. My most comfortable pairs are pretty evenly split between the two types of construction. More hand work involved in HW and that will be a worthwhile reason alone to purchase them over an equivalently priced GYW shoe, for some.

And I am crushed that this amazing sale comes just after I splurged on other toys and have zero funds left for more shoes or boots. Grrrrr. About 4 pairs I would have grabbed. Thanks to Skoak for the opportunity anyway!
I feel your pain my man. I’ve just over splurged recently and can’t take the plunge on the Scaffora’s at the moment. Would love to pick up a few pairs of the loafers.
As for HW, I personally prefer them over GYW, as a connoisseur of hand made cigars, it’s the whole totally by hand mystique that draws me to them.


Senior Member
Dec 28, 2015
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For me the battle (if there is such) between HW and GYW is fought on a different battleground than on the construction method alone. I can't tell HW from GYW apart based on construction since that would require me to have a HW and a GYW on the same last using the same sole and upper. It would be an interesting experiment so if anyone wants to sponsor that experiment hook me up! I don’t expect my inbox to fill up though….

That being said I was happy to increase my family of StC members by one from the summer sale. Whoever got the suede chukkas in my size congrats! Was to slow on these…


Distinguished Member
Dec 20, 2012
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One has spent far too much time pondering the summer sale offerings when you lol at “sipping on a non-alcoholic beverage” in the copy...


Senior Member
Mar 5, 2015
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Thank you. Just received my first StC and Scafora. Looked for the brown Scafora cap toe but someone beat me to it. Thanks again.
View attachment 1192674View attachment 1192675
How do you scafora so far? How does it compare with other makers? I am also bit surprised they are not popular on SF. They look very similar to Meccariello that seems quite popular on SF. Scafora looks like a more subtle version of AM.

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