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Skoaktiebolaget – Löf & Tung, Carlos Santos, Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, Paolo Scafora, Rubinacci

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Leaves, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. stook1

    stook1 Senior Member

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    I might be interested. I just don't have any experience with L&T sizing/lasts, which is slightly concerning for MTO (even though my feet are pretty average). How does the quality compare to C&J? I'd also been contemplating one of the C&J GMTOs. In terms of color, I would probably be most interested in Bourbon or Armagnac. Not quite sure where Dark Cognac fits into the spectrum. Darker than Armagnac? Guessing Mahogany is more red?

    Also, apologies if this has already been stated but is this Horween shell or another tannery?
     

  2. CrashBurner

    CrashBurner Senior Member

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    1. Sizing on L&T S or T last - there’s quite a bit of info on the Skoaktiebolaget site:
    EG and G&G - size down half a size from your UK size;
    Carmina Rain - take the same size in L&T
    2. Quality - not sure in comparison with C&J, but quite a bit of info around the web indicating the quality is good - most compare to Carlos Santos which is close to the same price point and the consensus is they’re a decent step up in quality. I understand Leaves (Patrik Löf) believes they’re slightly better than Carmina too; he’s had experience with both.
    3. There are so many names for the Brown shades of Shell - my head spins too. I was hoping for Mahogany which seems to be as you suggested, brown with a tinge of red - more subtle than Color #8. I’m happy with other tones and you will not be disappointed with Bourbon or Armagnac either. I think they maybe moving away from using the moniker “Cognac” and have replaced it with “Armagnac”. Having a pair of boots in Armagnac, it’s hard to imagine a darker brown but apparently Dark Cognac is even darker.
    4. On the Skoaktiebolaget L&T MTO section they state that the Shell is sourced from Horween.

    Hope this helps :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019

  3. stook1

    stook1 Senior Member

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    Thanks for all of the insight. Really, much appreciated! Snipped the quote just for brevity since I had a quick followup on the shell colors and will also look at this more carefully across other makers once i am home. I was under the impression (seemingly incorrect) that Armagnac was lighter than, for instance, Alden's Cigar or AE's Brown shell (just calling those two out since they are common). If Armagnac is, indeed, a very dark brown then I might well be most interested in Bourbon. Assuming that I am in (not 100% yet just to be clear) that would make 4 of us. I feel like it should be pretty manageable to get two more on board once the specific makeup is nailed down.
     

  4. jayvee

    jayvee Senior Member

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    I am afraid I am out. Skoak confirmed that they cannot offer commando soles on the Kingsley at the moment. Deal breaker for me, but good luck with the GMTO
     

  5. stook1

    stook1 Senior Member

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    What soles are offered?
     

  6. Mallaig

    Mallaig Well-Known Member

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    Second time I've been surprised by a pair of stunning shoes .... both are by Enzo B and both belong to @nishant.
     

  7. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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  8. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    L&T aren't Carlos Santos competitors - they are Carmina competitors
    Is the Vibram Gumlite any softer underfoot than Dainite, or pretty much the same?
     

  9. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I try to use the "official" Horween names for all colors. Alden has their own names for most of these colors. Current availability:

    • Black
    • Bourbon
    • Armagnac (the color that will replace Horween Cognac, not to be mistaken for Dark Cognac)
    • Oxblood (what Alden calls Col.8)
    • Dark Cognac
    • Limited supply of Bourbon Hatch Grain Cordovan
    Löf & Tung Hatch Grain Cordovan (show on Clark, I have one pair in UK 7.5, this pair in stock, email [email protected] if you are interested). Price is 8400 SEK (6720 SEK ex VAT / about $750).

    Löf-&-Tung-Clark-15709-Bourbon-Hatch-Grain-Horween-Cordovan-S-Last-2.jpg
     

  10. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    It is softer Roger.
     

  11. Mr Clemson

    Mr Clemson Senior Member

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    Agree with Roger 100%. L&T is now my choice 10 out of 10 times over CS and 8/9 out of 10 over Carmina (especially given the price difference).
     

  12. RogerP

    RogerP Distinguished Member

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    Cheers my man.
     

  13. djdanniedee

    djdanniedee Senior Member

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    Not to sound like a Skoak homer/nut hugger, BUT, i feel one thing that L&T offers over Carmina's is the excellent service and guaranteed QA. Questions, inquiries are answered promptly, any issues with received shoes/boots get resolved fairly, quickly and very reasonably. Majority of my footwear have been from Skoak and i would say i've only had 1 pair of EB boots that a slight tear on the tongue. Not a big deal, emailed them and was resolved fairly, no fuss, no avoiding or passing blame. There's something about having that piece of mind. Just my 2 cents.
     

  14. dangerous

    dangerous Senior Member

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    Is there any difference between hatch grain cordovan and "normal" cordovan when it comes to rolling and properties?
     

  15. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Must resist...
     

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