Skoaktiebolaget – Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, Löf & Tung

[Leaves]

Very sad to hear about F&S, I was able to score a sample shoe from their sale last week, and just ordered the country calf derby here.

Any Foster & Son pair, be it bespoke or RTW, will be collectors items of sorts I guess.

 

[Leaves]

on a related note, I check the 2019 records of several UK brands and have the following:

Crockett: 30 Mio revenue, 2 Mio profit, half of 2019. Massive 12 Mio GBP cash at hand.
Edward Green: unknown revenue, but 2 Mio GBP stock, increase in profit and in cash.
Gaziano & Girling: probable loss in 2019, high share premium account, not so high cash.
Loake: (2018 data), 21 Mio revenue, 1.5 Mio profit, half of 2017, high cash and stocks.
Cheaney: 11 Mio revenue, 1 Mio profit, slightly lower. Very high retained earnings + cash.
Church's: 17 Mio revenue, growing. Low profit, but then it is turned to Prada, good reserves.
John Lobb UK: no revenue data, but less profit in 2019, decent stock and over 1 Mio in cash.
New & Lingwood: no revenue data, probable 2019 loss, low quality financial balance sheet.
Tricker's: (2018 data), 7 Mio revenue, slightly growing, however loss in both 2018 and 2017.

My objective is to provide insights into health of UK shoemakers. I value Crockett, Edward Green, Loake, Cheaney, Church's and John Lobb as safe, however G&G, N&L as well as Tricker's are not that well.

7-8 shops has closed down on Jermyn Street during the pandemic. So far. I hope we won't see any more UK shoe brands in trouble but that's probably wishful thinking.

 

[ZRH1]

7-8 shops has closed down on Jermyn Street during the pandemic. So far. I hope we won't see any more UK shoe brands in trouble but that's probably wishful thinking.

oh, that is more than I imagined, sad to hear. Wish you and SKOAB all the best!

 

[Leaves]

oh, that is more than I imagined, sad to hear. Wish you and SKOAB all the best!

Thank you. We are not suffering so much as many others. We were very quick to act and cut costs and still retained clients to support us online. It's much different in central London where the shops feed off tourists and office people around Jermyn Street. And we don't have any factory workers to pay.

 

[CLTesquire]

Thank you. We are not suffering so much as many others. We were very quick to act and cut costs and still retained clients to support us online. It's much different in central London where the shops feed off tourists and office people around Jermyn Street. And we don't have any factory workers to pay.

I rather enjoyed your post about the role of retailers in the G&G thread. But I think my follow up question is better in this thread...do you have any plans to expand L&T to have a higher level or prestige line of shoes? Something with sculpted waists and the like. This is not intended as a criticism of L&T’s current line. It’s very nice. Just curious if you plan to introduce something competitive with G&G or EG in the future. You know what you’re doing clearly, and there might be a Northampton factory coming available....

 

[Leaves]

I rather enjoyed your post about the role of retailers in the G&G thread. But I think my follow up question is better in this thread...do you have any plans to expand L&T to have a higher level or prestige line of shoes? Something with sculpted waists and the like. This is not intended as a criticism of L&T’s current line. It’s very nice. Just curious if you plan to introduce something competitive with G&G or EG in the future. You know what you’re doing clearly, and there might be a Northampton factory coming available....

Thank you.

At this moment I do not have any plans to add a higher grade line from either Löf & Tung or to create a new top tier brand. To be honest, the segment is quite oversaturated IMO. I will however look for a replacement for Foster. Ideally it would be around either the €500 mark or the €800 mark (or both) as we do have a bit of price tier gap right there.

 

[MoneyWellSpent]

Thank you.

At this moment I do not have any plans to add a higher grade line from either Löf & Tung or to create a new top tier brand. To be honest, the segment is quite oversaturated IMO. I will however look for a replacement for Foster. Ideally it would be around either the €500 mark or the €800 mark (or both) as we do have a bit of price tier gap right there.

I know you have stated that the Foster and Son shoes are (were) probably the best RTW shoes coming from Northampton at this time, but how much do you think they really surpass Edward Green quality? I think EG uses celastic toe stiffeners, while the Fosters were using leather. But, is there really much else that separates them?

 

[Leaves]

I know you have stated that the Foster and Son shoes are (were) probably the best RTW shoes coming from Northampton at this time, but how much do you think they really surpass Edward Green quality? I think EG uses celastic toe stiffeners, while the Fosters were using leather. But, is there really much else that separates them?

I should clarify; in my personal opinion they are (were) the best UK RTW option in the premium segment. You get a shoe that in many regards, in terms of looks, finish and feel, surpasses brands making RTW in a higher price point. As for long term durability and quality I honestly can’t say as I’ve worn my F&S very little (our order came in just about as the pandemic hit and I have not been wearing a lot of dress shoes). There’s something very G&G over the finish and build, but with a bit more conservative aesthetic.

 

[dangerous]

I don't understand why shark is not used more. The leather is ridiculous. It's beautiful and soft - but also resistant.

Here with crocodile straps from Enzo Bonafé on 74945 last.

I picked up the Keble a few days ago. Look at this welt join...

It's ridiculous!

 

[Usonian]

@dangerous what are those jeans? PBJ? or one of those super neppy N&Fs?

 

[dangerous]

@dangerous what are those jeans? PBJ? or one of those super neppy N&Fs?

PBJ SR-019s!

 

[Usonian]

PBJ SR-019s!

well, them AND the boots look great! I went to the PBJ store in Tokyo last year, nothing quite worked out, but they seemed to be out of the things in my size unfortunately... ended up with some Momo's instead, which are really terrific, but not PBJs. ANYWAY...

 

[Pbayvip]

I will however look for a replacement for Foster. Ideally it would be around either the €500 mark or the €800 mark (or both) as we do have a bit of price tier gap right there.

Have you considered Zonkey Boot? Never tried them, but I find their models interesting. I think that they could profit from a competent retailer.

And please please bring back more Bonafe models.... I understand the logic of developing your own brand, but Skoaktiebolaget is looking like L&T monobrand store lately....

 

[dangerous]

Have you considered Zonkey Boot? Never tried them, but I find their models interesting. I think that they could profit from a competent retailer.

And please please bring back more Bonafe models.... I understand the logic of developing your own brand, but Skoaktiebolaget is looking like L&T monobrand store lately....

It is even more sad in the shop!

I think a main issue here is the Covid-19...

Keep in mind they just had some EB drops, but also like 6-7 St.C:s. The F&S segment never re-stocked.

I do, however, think it would be a great idea to bring back the few MTO:s a month. It could be old favourites, old RTW models...

We as a community might have to work harder to bring out GMTO suggestions so it's easier for @Leaves to create the offering.

 

[hkoldguy]

Is there anywhere I can buy Foster & Son 05 lasts shoestree to go with the shoes I recently bought?
And is it still not possible to order JL to Asia?