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Skoaktiebolaget – Carmina, John Lobb, Enzo Bonafè, Carlos Santos, Saint Crispin’s, Rubinacci – Offi

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Leaves, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. JSO1

    JSO1 Senior member

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  2. lartiste

    lartiste Senior member

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    Gaziano&Girling Thorpe in Green Hatch Grain Maiden Voayage
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    7 people like this.
  3. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    John Lobb at Skoaktiebolaget

    By this time, all of you are aware that our new Mystery Maker is John Lobb. And to appease the puritans of SF I will say John Lobb Paris just for clarity. Although, as most of you know, the factory is actually in Northampton. It’s only the bespoke part of the business that is actually in Paris. When buying the John Lobb Paris workshop and acquiring the right to use the name John Lobb and produce RTW John Lobb shoes, Hermés pledged to never make bespoke shoes under the John Lobb name in England. There’s respect and friendship between the two John Lobbs it seems, when I visited the John Lobb St. James workshop with the John Lobb Sales Director for Europe, Thomas Collette, we were treated very, very well and given the grand tour of the whole premises.

    I will be honest and very transparent with you guys; I did have my doubts about John Lobb in the beginning. A couple of years ago, John Lobb reached out to me and we had a meeting in Stockholm. At that time, John Lobb had just started to restrict their retailers and their options to make store specials, so I made it clear that I could not work under those conditions – Skoaktiebolaget has always been about bringing something unique to the table, yet still offer a core of classic “staple” styles. I was also a bit hesitant about the new “fashion statements” rolling out of JL – to be honest, it’s just not my cup of tea. I kept in touch with the European Sales Director Thomas Collette though, he’s a good guy. And about a year ago he told me that JL had started to open up for more freedom for their retailers. My interest was revived and I visited the John Lobb factory. To say I was impressed is an understatement. The factory is situated in an old Victorian style building, in a cosy residential area. The factory is operated with precision and quality in focus, in a way I’ve seldom beheld in England before. QC is rigorous. After each major step in production, there’s a QC station which rejects substandard products directly, instead of moving them all through production and then detecting the flaw upon final QC which (absurdly) is the normal process in Northamptonshire. I also me with Duncan Stuart, who is the leather buyer at John Lobb. I first got to know Duncan when he worked for Edward Green, but he left about the same time we stopped working with EG. He told me that JL provides him the opportunity to travel to and pick out many of the skins directly at the tannery, before they are dyed, in order to be able to pick the best selections.

    And you just can’t argue with the classic John Lobb styles. I’ve had a pair of Philip II for a few years and they are amongst my most stylish and comfortable shoes. I mean, really comfy. The only shoes I’ve had that are as comfy straight out of the box is G&G. Both makers virtually require no break in, at least for me. And just look at some of those styles JL made for Leather Soul Hawaii a few years back, when LSH was at their peak. Just pure awesomeness. We are starting with a basic selection of classic JL styles at Skoaktiebolaget. In early 2017 we are adding three more winter styles, and in April we are adding six more store specials, many of which are very rare and seldom seen anywhere else.

    So, there you go, a more extensive introduction to John Lobb, from my perspective. I will add that we looked at a bunch of new makers during the process of selecting a new maker to our line up this time around. Luckily, we are in a position these days that virtually every premium maker is coming to us; it’s a very big difference to the early days of Skoaktiebolaget, let me tell you! So we have had samples from all over the world and we chose John Lobb very carefully and in competition to many very, very interesting makers. I wish I could add several more of them, but we don’t want to rush adding another maker until we have gotten to know John Lobb well. I will tell you though, that there will be an addition during 2017.

    Some John Lobb inspiration:
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    19 people like this.
  4. lartiste

    lartiste Senior member

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    @Leaves many thanks for nice explanation situation regarding John Lobb

    I am just curious, you mentioned that you do not understand how anyone can selling Vass. What is the issue with Vass?
     
  5. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I think he is referring to the fact that with the prices Vass is selling direct at, makes very hard for a retailer to stock as it would not be very profitable, hence not worth the effort.
     
  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    thanks for the write up, Leave, very keen to wait for the 6 unique styles. I have to agree with you, JL quality control on their final products, are the best out Northampton, I guess being part of Hermes definitely helps.
     
  7. bsarosi

    bsarosi Senior member

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    Black Friday EB purchases...apologies for poor lighting. Will post some natural light photos.

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    6 people like this.
  8. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    ^^^ Nice choices both.
     
  9. lartiste

    lartiste Senior member

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    True, there was store in Prague selling Vass, but the shoes were in fact up to 1/3 more expensive than directly from Vass. It never makes any sence for me to purchase with them. Did it just once on sale, when the price was equal to the price of Vass.
     
  10. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    Deleted. Wrong thread sorry.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2016
  11. Handcuffed

    Handcuffed Senior member

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    Re: JL, I'm personally glad to see Skoak bringing in another high-tier brand to their store to fill in the gap that was missing since EG's departure. I was only just getting ready to start investing in that level of shoes and boots when EG and Skoak parted ways but I'm at the point with my collection where I'd rather have one $1,000 dollar pair than 2-3 lesser pairs. I understand now everyone is that way, though, and that's why Carlos Santos, EB, and Carmina will continue to thrive with them.

    I have lusted after a pair of Lobb William II ankle boots for a while. And Lobb St. Crepin's (obviously). I have a single pair of Lobb's - a City II in brown suede that I wear pretty much any time I'm wearing a navy suit - so I'll also likely try and acquire black and brown City II's in standard calf colors at some point, too.

    Anyways, I figured I'd chime in and say that I'm excited for Skoak and to see what kinds of offerings come down the pipeline!
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    4 people like this.
  13. bloodyj13

    bloodyj13 Senior member

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    It's kinda Xmas blessing for such a gorgeous pair of boots waiting for your return from business trip at the office! Thanks to Skoaktiebolaget team!
    [​IMG]
     
    12 people like this.
  14. bloodyj13

    bloodyj13 Senior member

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    It's kinda Xmas blessing for such a gorgeous pair of boots waiting for your return from business trip at the office! Thanks to Skoaktiebolaget team!
    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  15. ecwy

    ecwy Senior member

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    Been eyeing the Enzo Bonafe Longwing design for a long time but never really pulled the trigger. This pair was on a pretty nice discount during the Black Friday sale plus shared postal shipping with @ThunderMarch .

    In addition to the usual good stuff like handwelt etc, main reason why I was tempted to try EB's longwing is that it has no seam beneath the long wing (last pic) and 4 eyelets (vs the more regularly seen 5 eyelet). I can only think of Tricker's having 4 eyelets as well. Also, I noticed the tongue design is pretty interesting when I unboxed the shoe. Most LWBs, from what I observe, come with just a plain tongue.

    Specs:
    Art. 3934
    Betis Ebano
    363 MOD

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    9 people like this.
  16. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    Lots of Black Friday win happening here.
     
  17. Diabolical

    Diabolical Senior member

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    I received my St Crispins wingtip boots from the Black Friday sale yesterday. They look even more beautiful in person.

    [​IMG]
     
    7 people like this.
  18. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    I'm trying to import deer bone into Korea. Not going well so far. They are talking the Big Q right now.
    Fingers crossed...
     
  19. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    To get through the customs process, I imagine you're better off saying it's for making soup than rubbing your shoes.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2016
  20. DeSense

    DeSense Senior member

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    Thankfully it doesn't say anything about 'rubbing' the shoes with but rather 'used for the maintenance of leather'.
    Who knows what kind of fetish or occult fantasy that might have otherwise given cause to...
     
    1 person likes this.

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