Skoaktiebolaget – Carlos Santos, Enzo Bonafé, Saint Crispin’s, Paolo Scafora, Carmina, Rubinacci

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Leaves, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I would prefer to do them in Antique Brown Grain, because I don't think Carmina does the dark brown Hatch Grain. And I would prefer to evaluate Hatch Grain a little more before we roll out more pairs, I heard AS had problems with their Hatch Grain although I think this was an unfinished version, Carmina finishes they Hatch Grain themselves. We've had no reports of any issues from any of our clients.
    In style or fit? In style it's kinda hard because Carmina does not actually have that very round, blunt last. Maybe Oscar but 202 is more blunt and bulby.
     


  2. Vodking

    Vodking Well-Known Member

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    Interesting news, I was waiting for those AS problems to blow over before placing a hatch grain order with Carmina.
     


  3. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I just added Burgol shoe polish to our web shop, I know a lot of you guys have wanted to try this Swiss manufacturer out as a comparison to Saphir and other premium polish brands. What sets Burgol apart from Saphir Medal d'Or (I've used this product for several years) is that I find it easier to get a high shine faster with Burgol.
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    I've also added our long awaited restock of Carmina belts to the store.
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  4. spicycho

    spicycho Senior member

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    Is the last one cognac?
     


  5. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I think Carmina calls it Cognac Calf in English which can be confusing so we call it tanned calf. In Spanish it's called Vegano Cuero.
     


  6. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    I see that Bonafè's homepage describes goodyear construction as "Hand stitiching" and "The hand made shoe by definition":

    http://www.enzobonafe.com/english/good-year-workmanship.html

    That is oxymorons as I understand it.

    Do you know if Bonafè is genuinely hand welted - like Vass, St. Crispins, various bespoke etc. - or Goodyear welted?

    Perhaps the term "Goodyear" has become so pervasive as a sign of quality that even hand welted shoes has to be described this way.
     


  7. Frank the sheep

    Frank the sheep Senior member

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    They are hand welted it's just the italians that call it goodyear. The reason is that "everyone" knows that goodyear means quality but few know what hand welt means.
     


  8. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Thanks, I suspected as much.
     


  9. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    They are genuinely hand welted as can be seen in this video I shot in the Bonafé factory. They have a Goodyear production line system, just like EG, G&G or Carmina but where the Goodyear welting machine should be there are two old dudes hand welting. The amount of time that goes into just hand welting is staggering compared to a machine welted shoe. Just as Frank says, the Goodyear welted terminology is used widely in Italy whether the shoes are hand or machine welted, a bit confusing really.

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     


  10. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Thanks Leaves. Nice video. Great that you are offering these shoes in Scandinavia.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2014


  11. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    There's something wonderfully appropriate about hand welting being done by "two old dudes". [​IMG]
     


  12. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  13. DonRaphael

    DonRaphael Senior member

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    Just wanted to thank the SkoAB team for helping me with Carmina/G&G size comparison and for pointing me in the right direction concerning a Carmina model they've stocked preciously.

    Didn't place an order at their website this time as they had run out of the model and size I was looking for, but will pay a visit to the store in Stockholm late January. I'm looking for colors close to Vass Antique Cognac and/or Oxblood and hope to find what I'm looking for at SkoAB.

    Thanks once again.
     


  14. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    How is the sole attached to the welt? by machine or hand? Obviously the video shows the welt being attached to the insole/uppers but is the sole attached by hand as well?
     


  15. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Off to Pitti, back next weekend!
     


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