Single Breasted Peak Lapel Jackets

[dieworkwear]



Were you after something like this?

I'm not really sure, to be honest. That looks nice, although I feel like my opinion sometimes changes depending on how much of the jacket is shown. The proportions for a PL sometimes looks off to me without that big sweeping line of a DB.

I'll try to dig around later for some photos and post them. Feel like a lot of stuff is at play here -- belly vs no belly, space between collar and lapel, width, etc. Not sure I've thought about this enough either way to have preferences on those things.

Curious, when you say the lapel sometimes swings away when it's not secured to the collar, do you mean how sometimes the peak can curl "out" and away from the body?

 

[grahamBrowne]

Yes, the peak lapel is usually (roughly) where the lapel meets the collar 3.5 - 4 inches from the shoulder seam.
Most pictures will probably give the effect of a higher gorge (what this area is called)

Now when you have some semi peaks and extremely high peaks that don't sit with equal distance between the collar and the lapel they tend to sit higher and sit away from the jacket.

Some might enjoy that style but it's also about balance
(Also it's not a criticism of another style or others work )

Some examples below

 

[dieworkwear]

Jesus, those look awful (sorry to whoever made them).

 

[RobertSoren]

As far as proportions go, I think Phineas Cole does it well. Look at these jackets, for example.....

https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-...ey-pin-wale-cotton-corduroy-sport-jacket.html

https://www.paulstuart.com/phineas-cole/tailored-clothing/sport-jackets/navy-doeskin-blazer-1.html

 

[unbelragazzo]

For my taste those PC peaks are too high.

 

[dieworkwear]

Also too high for me, but not nearly as offensive as the blue DB posted above. I think it goes well with that kind of Phineas Cole look, which is inherently a bit aggressive. Just not something I would personally wear.

I like Jean Claude Ellena's peak lapels at the top of this post, which are a lot lower set. I just haven't thought about how I feel about all the other details (belly, width, etc).

Thinking about doing this SBPL thing on a tan wool gab suit.

 

[brax]

One thing that has not been mentioned but I think is critical concerns buttons. I would only get a SBPL if it is a one button. To me it is a sine qua non. I'll try to post a shot of mine next week.

 

[dieworkwear]

Was looking at Tom Ford today. He seems to do SBPLs well. (Ignore the low rise jeans)

Not something I would wear, but I think it works because of the built up chest and shoulders. The peak lapel kind of emphasizes the overall aggressiveness of the look.

Kind of Sexton-ish, 60s/ 70s Nutter in that regard.

Unrelated, but here's a cool photo of Langston Hughes in what looks to be a soft shouldered SBPL. Angle isn't very good for telling how the jacket looks from the front, but it's a nice picture.

 

[grahamBrowne]

It's either a 4 1/2 inch or 4 3/4 lapel on the top ford peak lapels depending on what block is being used.

 

[Marsay]

SBPLs in pop culture (also patch pockets; Pitt's character is supposed to be something of a lounge lizard and wears SBPLs in various configurations throughout the Moroccan part of the film):

 

[dieworkwear]

More of a dandy look, but Sexton pulls it off, as usual.

SLPL in Donegal tweed.



[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[Terrence O'Connor]

Illustration from Esquire Magazine by L. Fellows.
Proportions are very good I think.

 

[Terrence O'Connor]

I like this three button worn by English Actor George Arliss

 

[vida]

I think this is about as good as it gets; soft, one button, easy...