Simple suit question

[bigbadbuff]

1) What is the reasonable amount of inches a pair of suit pants can be taken in without throwing off the balance? It always seems as though suitmakers make the pants so big. I will probably be a bordeline 44/46 shortly, and will need the suit pants at about 36 for the waist... think this will be a problem?


The Canali I recently bought is a Euro 58L... I was going to take it to a local men's store I trust and have them give it to me straight if they think they could make it work... jacket is closer to a 46L, pants are at a 40" waist, but the length of the jacket is what I'm really worried about. I am 5'11"ish, jacket length is 34", which makes it come down about 2 inches past my butt.

 

[The_Foxx]

i have a similar problem with my suits. my solution was to find a custom tailor to do my trouser "re-cut", as it is known in the business. granted, i would not buy a suit from this korean tailor, but he definitely knows his stuff and even has a working relationship with some of the big cloth makers. most menswear stores don't have tailors who can perform this service.

the other solution i have used in the past was to take my suit trousers directly to the source (i.e. brioni suit trousers purchased from another mens store taken to the NYC Brioni for trouser alterations).

 

[davei]

Usually it's up or down one size. Some (most?) tailors/alteration places won't do more than that. It just becomes far too involved with cutting/re-sewing/etc. but it also throws off the look of the pants. If you want an idea, take a large pair of pants and cinch it tight - ignoring your butt for a moment, notice how the thigh area is (too loose, or maybe the rise is low?) A long jacket is also a problem - I would not have it cut, even if it is only two inches. It can come out alright from a hem perspective, but then the pockets will be two inches too low. Sounds like you need a 46R.

The difference between chest size/waist size with a suit is called the "drop". Usually this is between 6-8 inches (38 chest, 32/30 waist). It fits in with the population's general sizes.

 

[Renwick]

I have the opposite problem, I wear a size 38-40 jacket but my waist is 35 inches- so if I buy a size 38 suit the pants don't fit although the jacket is fine. Anyone know what to do about that?

 

[pstoller]

I wear a size 38-40 jacket but my waist is 35 inches- so if I buy a size 38 suit the pants don't fit although the jacket is fine. Anyone know what to do about that?

You'll have better luck with designers who assume a more generous waistline; say, Hickey-Freeman as opposed to Dior Homme. However, I don't know any label that assumes a 3" drop, so you should probably be shopping for the size 40 rather than the 38. Some stores may allow you to mix components from suits of different sizes to get both pants and a jacket that fit. Otherwise, you'll need to buy suits with the right size pants and have the jacket taken in, or have suits custom made.

Any way you go, you'll need some tailoring done, but that's not unusual for any physique.

 

[Renwick]

You'll have better luck with designers who assume a more generous waistline; say, Hickey-Freeman as opposed to Dior Homme.

Thanks for the help.
Just one thing though, you mentioned in another post that
your Dior tux pants :
"were 2+ inches too large, requiring a recut"
are most Dior suit pants like that? If they are they may actually fit me better.

 

[LA Guy]

Dior Homme is not for the large waisted, by any means. pstoller lives in L.A., and from his previous posts, seems, like a great many Angelenos, to exercise and work out regularly (I'm procrastinating my going to the gym as we speak,) and I suspect that he has a pretty good physique. If you want a smaller drop, I would try Hugo Boss, or maybe Gucci. Some of the older style Italian makers like Belvest or Zegna might fit as well; but I wouldn't take Dior Homme to be your best bet.

 

[pstoller]

Quote:

you mentioned in another post that your Dior tux pants "were 2+ inches too large, requiring a recut." Are most Dior suit pants like that? If they are they may actually fit me better.
pstoller lives in L.A., and from his previous posts, seems, like a great many Angelenos, to exercise and work out regularly (I'm procrastinating my going to the gym as we speak,) and I suspect that he has a pretty good physique.
LA Guy flatters me.

Mostly, I'm just blessed by genetics with a Dior-friendly build. Thanks to advancing age, I do now have to work out to keep it that way, although wedding preparations have pretty much kept me on the bench"”not the pressing kind"”for a while now. As for the Dior, the tux jacket itself virtually requires a body with at least my drop: I'm a 38R with a 30" waist, and I don't think I could close the jacket properly if I gained two inches around the middle. This is why I was flummoxed that the pants would be a 32. True, in Italian sizing, the jacket and pants are both size 48 (a 6" drop is considered "normal," I guess), but there's no question that this size 48 jacket should have been paired with size 46 pants. (The salesman at Neiman Marcus confided in me today that the tux hadn't sold particularly well, largely because of the mismatched parts.) So, yeah, as LA Guy says, "not for the large-waisted." As an aside, the tailoring is now complete; the pants now fit perfectly, while the jacket"”which otherwise was a perfect fit off the rack"”has had its sleeves expertly shortened (they were several inches too long, another Slimane eccentricity) and converted to surgeon's cuffs. Now, if my vest and shirt are finished within two weeks, I'll be set. I may go broke on this wedding, but at least I'll look like a million bucks.

 

[Renwick]

If you want a smaller drop, I would try Hugo Boss, or maybe Gucci.  Some of the older style Italian makers like Belvest or Zegna might fit as well; but I wouldn't take Dior Homme to be your best bet.

Yeah most of my suits are actually Gucci and Hugo Boss although I have a few prada suits as well.

 

[Renwick]

Now, if my vest and shirt are finished within two weeks, I'll be set. I may go broke on this wedding, but at least I'll look like a million bucks.

If you get the chance post some pictures of the tux, I'd love to see it.

 

[pstoller]

If you get the chance post some pictures of the tux, I'd love to see it.

This will depend on the blackmail potential of the photographs. Assuming our wedding photographer is worth the princessly sum we're paying her, I'll post links to the better shots once we get them online.