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Show us your Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    This is often said, and I'm sure it's true, but I've had three pair of trousers remade a year or more after the suits were made without any problem. One was Smith's Finmeresco, the other two Minnis Fresco. In each case, I had the merchant send a swatch with information identifying the bolt. After I compared it to the suit and made sure of a match, I provided that information to my tailor.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. lovelux2010

    lovelux2010 Senior member

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    hello - that was my prediction when I first went the bespoke route. but in hindsight, I do wish I got a more modern cut of suit trouser. pleats, high waisted trousers and cuffs can make a 35 year old look 55, in my experience.
    I will certainly keep my Chan trousers and if that style does come back, i'll be quite happy! the jackets I have cut look great, its just the trousers that date the suit, I think..
    well lets see how things evolve. I'm sure when I'm 55, younger people will not want to look like their parents - things cant get slimmer so they will have to get looser..
     
  3. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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    After wearing my new Yao suit in Fresco 0500 today I am definitely going to have more trousers made. I asked for medium rise when I discussed details with Gordon and during fittings said I was going to wear braces... but the trousers feel very high. If the shade is different by a microscopic account I'm sure most people will never notice, but to be sure I'll order the cloth direct from Minnis first, so I can compare.

    Perhaps I'll have them made by Chan, just for teh lolz.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2015
  4. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Seeing Chan tomorrow. What do you guys think of the fit of the pants?

    Second Suit, Minnis 0501 mid grey 8-9 oz., 3 roll 2.5 (I think he made it 3 roll 2 just like my first suit), quarter lined with Ermazine, 3.75" lapels, natural shoulder, high gorge, single button vest with notch lapels, double inverted pleated pants, 1 & 5/8" cuff
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    First Suit after Alterations, Minnis 0520 french blue 9-10 oz. 3 roll 2, half lined with Ermazine, 3.25" lapels, natural shoulder, high gorge, double breasted peak lapel vest, double inverted pleated pants with fishtail back, 1 & 5/8" cuff
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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  5. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Look a little big in the seat, but you are the best judge of that.
    Otherwise, they look good.
     
  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +2: what do you think yourself? Did you have any changes in mind?
     
  7. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Post updated with more pics and detail

    Both suits look pretty solid from the front, but I'm not happy with the back at all. I don't know how the sleeve pitch got changed on the second suit either. What should I tell him to address the backs?
     
  8. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    The sleeve pitch on the second suit needs to be fixed. I mentioned the collar dropping down too easily, and Patrick said he would tighten it on the second suit but it still drops down too much. I'm going to ask him about that again. I really don't know how to fix the back of the pants and the jacket. I don't know what's causing the issues, which is why I'm enlisting SF's help.

    I also don't know why the quarters on the second suit are more closed. I asked him to make it the same as the first suit.

    What do you guys think about the back of the vests?

    I was intending to get a sport coat and another suit, but now I'm a little reluctant to get the suit. I may just get the sport coat and see if he can get it right the third time.

    I was thinking a navy Minnis Fresco, H&S Crispaire, or Harrison's Frontier or Mystique with double stitching and 3 patch pockets with pagoda shoulder. Which fabric do you think would be best? For the suit, I was intending to get Smith & Woolens Finmeresco 10/11 oz. Navy or H&S Crispaire.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  9. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I've had that problem with pants (also high waisted and worn with suspenders) and the solution was to shorten the rear rise by 1/2" and take in the seat.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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    I think the pants are pretty good for Fresco, especially the 0501. I've got a pair of similarly high-rise trousers in 0500 as part of a suit from Gordon Yao and they bag much worse than yours. Seen other people say that too. But since I get very hot easily I crave the lightness.
     
  11. zim13

    zim13 Well-Known Member

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    Hi

    When will the next L.A. visit be?

    Thanks


    Steven
     
  12. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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  13. zim13

    zim13 Well-Known Member

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  14. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Thank you! I'll see what Patrick thinks. He already lowered the fishtail back on the 0520 blue suit. I still think the seat is too big and/or the waist.
     
  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Really? The backs look actually pretty clean and I don't see the sleeve pitch issue on the navy suit; which sleeve? Not sure that the quarters on the navy suit are more closed either; if anything, it's very slight. I would just take your concerns to Patrick; would be surprised if he could not address them. That said, you have a keen eye for detail - some would say nitpicking; nothing wrong with that of course, this is SF after all - and not sure how many others in your area could serve you better than Patrick.
     
  16. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    I agree with you about the sleeve pitch on the blue suit; I was referring to the sleeve pitch on the grey one. The quarters are more closed on the grey suit, not the blue--sorry for the confusion since I posted my second suit first, but labeled it as the second suit.. I'll take the keen eye for detail comment as a compliment :D. I think I've seen too many of Vox's photos, which is why I'm so picky, lol.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2015
  17. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Of course, it all depends on your build and posture, but I found I get a better fit without the fishtail.
     
  18. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    The grey suit is not fishtail; the blue one is.
     
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I agree that those pants could use some work. They did an excellent job on mine, posted a several pages back.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2015
  20. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I see. Just looked at the pics of the grey one, and the fit problem seems the same as that I had which was fixed by reducing the rear rise and taking in the seat. But as others have said, ask Patrick. Better to rely on a real tailor than internet critics.
     
    1 person likes this.

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