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Show us your Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Patrick did enlarge the seat area from the basted fitting.
     
  2. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    The basted fitting does look a lot better.
     
  3. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    +1
     
  4. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Isn't it just a matter of pulling up your pants? Would trust Patrick's views based on actual observations of the pants vs. views based on pics.
     
  5. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    At my meeting on the 26th, he actually adjusted the braces to where he thought they should be. The basted fitting pic doesn't have braces attached. The other pics have the braces adjusted to various lengths by myself. I'll try to post a pic with the braces set by him and will adjust my stance where my legs are closer together like the basted fitting pic. I want to get to the bottom of this!
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Certainly true, but pictures - and picture poses - can give a distorted fit impression.



    That makes sense...
     
  7. TieMyShoe

    TieMyShoe Senior member

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    My first suit and shirt from Chan. This wasn't as spectacular as others I've seen posted in this thread, but I'm not sure how to make it look better. Any thoughts or suggestions? Is this fixable with alterations or should I start over? Am I just being overly critical?

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    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  8. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Wash the shirt a couple of times and then assess the fit.

    I think the way you are standing makes the pants look off. The jacket could be taken in more in the waist.
     
  9. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I agree with TheTucker that Patrick's judgment is more trustworthy than pictures. FWIW, i have relatively wide hips and prominent seat, and I prefer single pleats. You could also try a single pleat and a small dart (on each side, replacing the pleats near the pockets) instead of double pleats. Patrick's own pants have a single dart on each side, iirc.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  10. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Has anyone received their order from Patrick's spring LA visit?
     
  11. TieMyShoe

    TieMyShoe Senior member

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    I had the initial measurements during the DC Tour and the finished garment sent. I have another appointment on 8/16 so trying to get feedback before then.

    Anyone other than me think the button stance needs to be lowered?
     
  12. Pingson

    Pingson Senior member

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    I don't think the button stance is nessecarily too high, maybe it could be lowered 0.5-1" or so. What's more disturbing in my eyes is that the jacket looks to be a good 1-1.5" too short and that gives the whole jacket odd proportions. Problem is that it is likely not possible to lengthen the jacket that much now.

    Trousers looks like they should be fairly easy to fix, maybe let out across thighs and cleaned up over the seat to remove wrinkles in the back.
     
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not sure about the jacket length because we don't have full-length photos to judge its proportions. It looks to me like you have a dropped shoulder that wasn't taken into consideration (note that buttons and buttonholes are uneven when the jacket is unbuttoned). It also looks like the right vent is flaring open, but the left is okay. The pants need to be cleaned up, but I suspect that Chan will see what's wrong there on their own.
     
  14. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    These are all just guesses, since pics can be very deceptive, but it would seem to me that if you lowered the button stance you'd also need to lower the lapel notches and the jacket hem. SB could be right about the shoulder not being accounted for, or it could just be the way you were standing when the pics were taken (more weight on one foot).

    But again, I'd definitely trust Patrick and Arnold. They know more than we do.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  15. TieMyShoe

    TieMyShoe Senior member

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    Thanks all for the suggestions. Here are some full body pictures.
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    I agree that it is too short. I specifically asked for it not to be too short, but Patrick insisted that this is more modern and better suited for my body proportions so I trusted his opinion. Do you think it is passable now that you can see full body view?

    Good catch on the uneven buttonholes. I didn't notice until you pointed that out. Even in the new pictures they show up as uneven. The flare also showed up again when I tried on the suit again.

    All of this makes sense. Any thoughts would help for future bespoke/mtm suits in regards to anything that can't be fixable with this current one.
     
  16. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ^For the next one, I'd probably ask to have everything lowered a bit, maybe an inch. The sleeves could be raised a quarter inch. I'd probably ask for wider lapels too. But that's largely personal taste. If the pants are on correctly, then they're the only thing that really needs fixing imo. I can't quite tell where the buttonholes are on these pics, since they're so dark.
     
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    M, if you view the image in a new window (at full size, essentially), you can see that the buttonhole is slightly higher than the button. I get that on some of my RTW suits, but that's exactly the sort of thing I would want addressed in a bespoke piece.

    TMS, overall, I think the suit looks pretty good. Maybe the jacket is a bit shorter than I would prefer for a suit, but it's certainly on the spectrum of acceptable.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    I have an appointment tomorrow with Patrick in NYC. I'm interested in perhaps 2 SCs in tweeds/faux tweed. I'm planing on checking out...

    Harrisons: Moonbeam
    P&H: Hartwist, Glenroyal
    W. Bill
    Breanish

    Any other suggestions?

    Thanks!
     
  19. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Pretty sweet P&H on the blog recently:

    http://wwchantailor.tumblr.com/
     
    2 people like this.
  20. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    +1 The two pairs of Bespoke trousers that I have are 15 years old. They still fit perfectly despite the fact that the waists have been
    let out to acommodate the inevitable anatomical effects of time and debauchery.
     

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