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Show us your Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Smith Woollens is awesome. They came onto my radar as a result of Michael Alden's raving about them on the London Lounge. Love their Botany line in particular due to (i) a wide range of beautiful grey sharkskins and non-navy blues, and (ii) a selection of plain weaves that are highly breathable while maintaining the strengths of 13 oz fabric.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013
  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    For those kinds of cloths I do prefer H Lesser though. You can deal direct with Smiths I believe. Is anyone a Taylor and Lodge fan? They are really nice but very much under the radar.
     
  3. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    I like Lesser 13 oz too, but Smith's Botany book excels in the areas I noted above - non-navy blues/grey sharkskins, and breathable plain weave fabrics - in terms of both breadth and quality of options. Lesser 13 oz is better for twills, nailhead, and birdseye IMO.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    My dad is a great fan, they do beautiful super numbers, luxurious british finish.

    Some of their range are very expensive, even for the bigtimers here.

    TBH, Fintex of London is the real under-rate,I thought their finish and stiffness will be phrased in here.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  5. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Well a lot of people mark up fabric which makes fabrics like that prohibitive. I've never seen the point in that, I just figure I make money on suits and why not use a good cloth if I can? The Golden bale runs at $250 a yard to me so it's quite pricey but imagine if I marked that up by a factor of 3? Then it becomes very expensive to the end client. I expect to spend $500 on an entry level cloth and that's what the client pays. For Golden bale they may spend an extra $500 but it's not completely crazy.

    I agree about the twills Lesser does them great. Fantastic for trousers.
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Well, only the educated gents will appreciate the beauty of golden bale, I think the price you mentioned are very reasonable. I am sure as a distinguished tailor like you, some customers will be happy to go the extra mile. What is your opinion on Reid & Taylor? Apparently that was the gold standard brand back in my dad's age, is it true?
     
  7. Wallcloud

    Wallcloud Senior member

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    I stand corrected. I retain my original excitement.
     
  8. Wallcloud

    Wallcloud Senior member

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    Does anyone have any tips on getting in touch with chan? I have had no luck getting a return email regarding my inquiry into a meeting on the 22nd of this month even though I have sent several emails.
     
  9. Archivist

    Archivist Senior member

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    Send the message from another email address. I had an issue with email getting caught in a spam filter. I contacted them from another address and they added me to their white-list.

    Or you could simply phone them.
    Hong Kong Shop
    A2, 2/F., Burlington House, 94 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
    Phone : (852) 2366 9738, 2366 2634 Fax : (852) 2368 2194
    Email: sales @ wwchan.com
     
  10. vinveritas

    vinveritas Senior member

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  11. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    For those of you that have gone through the traveling hotel measurement, how would you rate the fabric selection? Many? Varied? I've signed up for their upcoming tour and am looking forward to the experience.
     
  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Off the top of my head, I'd estimate they have the swatch books for somewhere between 50 and 70 suiting and jacketing collections. in addition, if you know the number of a cloth you want (from one of the fabric houses they deal with anyway), you can order that. For example, on the July 2010 tour, I wanted to get a blue Donegal tweed from the Porter & Harding Thornproof collection. They didn't have the Thornproof book with them, but since I knew the fabric number, they were able to give me a price on the spot, and I was able to go ahead and place my order.

    I won't be seeing Chan on this tour, but I'd be interested to know what their current price is for a 2-piece suit from VBC Super 110. That seems to be about the low-end, price-wise, of the suitings they use...and a perfectly acceptable suiting if you want a 9-ounce worsted, I have found.
     
  13. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Pic of a new Chan suit jacket, just delivered:

    [​IMG]

    The pattern is the same as the suits I posted earlier in this thread, except I requested the waist be nipped about 1/2 inch on both sides. Also lost some weight but left the shoulder measurement intact, so this is an example of slight "extension" on completely unpadded shoulders. Fabric is Lesser 13 oz navy.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    Shirtsleeves look a little short.^^^
     
  15. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I trust that you specified that you wanted a jacket in the short, contemporary style and that this is not Chan's new default cut!
     
  16. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    I definitely do prefer a short jacket but would note that the jacket covers my ass and I have long arms which may make it seem shorter in a photo. As for their default cut, my recent jackets have been done in what Patrick calls their "soft shoulders" house style, though I specified no shoulder padding.
     
  17. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    Very nice. I like and will be using as reference.
    Separate question, does one normally attend these hotel fittings alone, or would it not be unusual to bring along a lady friend, for example, as a second set of eyes?
     
  18. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Anyone have recent pictures of something double-breasted that WW Chan has made? I went through this thread (OK, just half of it) but only saw SB suits and sport coats.
     
  19. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Scroll through the blogs for the Armoury guys, Ethandesu and Alan See. They have lots of good pics of Chan DBs.
     
  20. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Yes, I agree, though I was hoping for some "real world" pics of Chan DBs. The Armoury guys look perfect in almost every shot, plus they are local and have the opportunity of fine-tuning their patterns. I wonder how the DB stuff turns out when one has only one visit in HK or only deals with Chan when they are on tour.
     

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