Are you talking about getting your Chan garment in basted form and then having it finished up by the "competent local tailor," or are you talking about having the suit made up from scratch by the local tailor in lieu of getting one from Chan? If it is the first, I would strongly counsel against it--seems fraught with peril and likely to piss off all parties concerned, especially you; in the second case, it's entirely your call. I might mention I had a well-respected local tailor, who had done a very good job rebuilding one of my last RTW jackets, make of botch of my last RTW suit when I tried to have him work similar magic on it. Actually, I wasn't too P.O.'ed, because it gives me a good rationale for ordering another Chan or two. Medium-weight, medium gray sounds like a very good idea for a "one and only suit." It's what Manton recommends in his book The Suit. Plain navy would be your other obvious option.