Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.
Thanks. I never got shirts from Chan. My shirts are either old Jantzen and RTW, or Cego
dp is never a glitch, nor a bad thing for that matter.
Thanks for the comments guys. There's definitely room for improvement but some of the flaws might be attributable to bad posture, saggy pants, and the fact that these were straight out of the fedex box. Here's a pic of a charcoal suit made from the exact same pattern. Do you see the same things?
Yes. You and I seem to have similar body shapes and I found that increasing the lapel real estate wide and down (buttoning point) was helping with the low shoulder/hips ratio. A little bit of shoulder extension (even with minimal padding) also helps visually.
I agree, but this new suit does look better. Enjoy it!
Thanks, I see what you mean. I'm apprehensive about asking Chan about the shoulder extension though - Some of my earlier projects had wider shoulders (albeit with light padding) and they couldn't figure out how to eliminate the divots even after 2 orders and me sending jackets back for alterations. Seems like they only conceptually understand close-fitting shoulders. I may have to experiment with another tailor to get the optimum shoulder-hip ratio.
In response to teddieriley's earlier point about unpadded shoulders: they definitely look a little frumpy and sweater-like out of the box. After a night on a good hanger, they straighten out to the point where they're indistinguishable from a lightly padded shoulder except that they're far more comfortable and move better when the arms are in motion.
Hi Gents, can anybody give me a ballpark of Chan's sports coats specifically in Hartwist tweed(if they have them)?
As for the divots, it took five commissions for Patrick to understand that the sleeves he was cutting for me were too narrow in the upper arm, which was the primary cause of the divots (my massively buff arms would stretch the sleeve horizontally, causing the divots). He had to widen and recut sleeves for a suit becuase literally after 3 attempts at fixing it, the divots remained (I had seen him on a few visits, and each time he would simply pin up material above the divot thinking that was the solution). That suit was basically useless for over a year and a half after three trips back to HK and me waiting for Chan to show up locally, but is now fitting great.
Your second suit actually looks pretty good. I still think you can benefit from a stronger shoulder line, but that's just me. Gld's gives some pretty sound advice.
looks much better in this picture
The charcoal suit is on the same pattern as the navy and light grey ones. If anything, it's a tad shorter.
My old Chan suits have a more classic config - stronger shoulder, longer length, fuller upper arm (a half-successful attempt at correcting the divots). They make me feel a bit old and conservative. These ones make me feel more relaxed/easygoing. It's probably all in my head, but that's where my taste is currently.
Here is a navy blazer. This was the first unpadded jacket I got from Chan, and all the subsequent ones were ordered via email based on the same pattern.
^what's the fabric?
Harrisons Oyster 13oz, navy hopsack
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