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Show us your Chan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.

  1. sm31

    sm31 Senior member

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    So I ended up asking Chan to see if they could get a swatch of a roll they did have access to, and send it to me, which they kindly did.

    Here's the swatch on top of the jacket, which they made in May.

    [​IMG]

    I see the colors are different, but was hoping not enough to be apparent in wear.

    But they think the difference is too great, so I'll trust their recommendation.

    So much for my plans for the blazer suit as the start of a new, small but flexible, tailored wardrobe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    On the question of converting a jacket into a suit with a subsequent order of trousers, I did this with my Harrison's Frontier blue blazer and ordered the trousers about six months after I got the jacket to convert it into a "blazer suit." (The jacket buttons were smoked MOP, by the way.) The trousers were a perfect match as far as I could tell. I guess the practice is sort of a crapshoot, but at least it paid off for me.
     
  3. sm31

    sm31 Senior member

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    You may have just gotten lucky, and they still had access to the same fabric roll (seems they do keep track of that in the order history)?
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Try turning the sample piece to run in the other direction. Some cloths are meant to be cut in one direction and the weave will reflect light differently. Cloth will look darker in one direction of the warp than the other. Might make a difference, might not.
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    As you probably know, it primarily comes down to the bolt of fabric. If it's the same one it won't be a problem. If it's a new one it can be difficult to add a new item due to color variance. Popular items like Minnis Fresco 0520 I'm sure sell out of each bolt fairly quickly. Others can take a while. When I visited W. Bill in London last Summer I saw a few fabrics where I had purchased them between 8 - 18 months prior. It was the same bolt as you could see my order to WW Chan around the correct date written on their attached order tag.
     
  6. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I wanted to replace a pair of pants from a suit of Minnis 520. I emailed Minnis and they sent a cutting from current stock. It seems a pretty good match, though I'll want to look at it in some different types of light. There's a lot of luck involved, and I would certainly never assume that fabric purchased even a few months later would be a match.
     
  7. sm31

    sm31 Senior member

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    Thanks Chris.

    Do you mean rotating it 90 degrees, or turning it over?

    I tried both, and do think there's a slight difference, but am not sure (?) whether that difference is significant enough to call it a match.

    Here's a few images, in daylight shade, with my hand as reference, using the exact same exposure, and no post-processing (e.g., the only difference should be the side of the swatch you're looking at, and its orientation).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    My totally non-expert sense is that the fabric from the swatch is very slightly warmer than the fabric from the jacket, and that one side may be very slightly lighter than the other.

    Am I seeing that right?

    Regardless: bad idea to risk getting the pants?

    I suspect yes, but just want another opinion.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They should have marked the face of the cloth so you are comparing the side that will show to what you see. Turn the sample 180 degrees not 90.
    The suit is cut in one direction meaning all the pattern pieces have the top facing one end of the cloth and the bottom of each pattern piece facing the other end of the cloth. You need to cut the trouser in the same direction as the jacket is cut.

    To compare this sample to the jacket you need to know which side is the face of the cloth and which direction the grain line is running. If the sample is not running in the same direction as the jacket you could see a significant color difference even if the cloth is from the same piece.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    How would you describe the house styling/preferences of Chan?
     
  10. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    In general terms: narrow waist, swelled chest, relatively natural shoulder, high gorge. Not sure what their default is with the quarters. I always make sure to ask for open.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012
  11. Jsoftz

    Jsoftz Senior member

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    This is my first custom-ordered suit and, of course, my first Chan. I've had it for a few months now and intend to commission a sports jacket or two as I have more use for them in my work life than straight up suits. I don't have a mirror nor, at the time, anyone to take a good picture but I thought I'd share these random shots nonetheless. Please ignore obnoxious pocket square sticking out, I put the jacket on after getting another RTW one fitted at my tailor and got that shot in right quick before stuffing the darn thing back in.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Despite picture quality, any feedback available on fit for me to give to Patrick et al next commission?
     
  12. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

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    its more about stylistic choice, but its a pretty heavily padded shoulder you have there.

    get him to check the back balance as the vents are flaring a bit in your photo
     
  13. Jsoftz

    Jsoftz Senior member

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    It's interesting that you say that about the shoulders. There's pretty much no padding there, I asked for a neapolitan shoulder with minimal/no padding. I have a real short/stout build and any padding tends to make me look like a barrel.

    With regards to the back balance, I will note that. I've noticed it out of the corner of my eye in mirrors etc, what with the vents flaring, but never got a good look at it. Thanks!
     
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    That all sounds about right.
     
  15. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    That sounds good. What's the general cost for a two-piece, say, with basic VBC fabric?
     
  16. hangthree

    hangthree Senior member

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    Ballpark for VBC is about $1150-1200. I spent another $300 and went with Harrisons Frontier which is a nice, durable workhorse cloth.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  17. Jsoftz

    Jsoftz Senior member

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    I did a Smith Woollens Excel super 120 and it was $1800.
     
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Everything is fine except the lapel is blowing out slightly.

    The skirt flare is ratherersonal taste.

    The shoulder looks fine, perhaps OP have strong straight shoulder

    I will try to hang with the fitter(cutter and coatmaker) for a more detailed and caution fitting, it is just things that had been missed out due to Patty's tight schedule
     
  19. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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  20. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Are you saying you don't use his nickname?:embar:
     

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