Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Jul 7, 2009.
emptym, does your right shoulder just naturally project forward a little bit?
Thanks everyone. Some responses to questions and comments:
I'll try. They're not roped. Shirt-sleeve, I believe w/ no padding. People use an Italian term for this, but I can't remember the term. I'll be out of town for a few days but will try to take a pic of the shoulders then. Until then, there are pics of two other of my coats' shoulders up several pages back if you want to take a look.
This, I can do now, since I took a pic of the fabric:
That is a great idea. I need one.
I think you may be right about the balance. Hadn't thought of that. I know it's considered proper for the front to be a little longer, but for some reason I've always preferred the hem to be basically straight along the horizon and possibly even rounding upwards in the front. Maybe I'll change my mind to the proper norm someday. You're right that I just threw these things on w/o thinking much about how they went together, as I mentioned in WAYWRN. I got the tie at the beginning of the summer, when I pretty much stop wearing ties. I put the shirt on because I was about to visit a new mto shirt company in SF (Tailor Stitch, run by a great group of guys) and wanted to see if this collar went well w/ the coat since I thought I might use it as a sample for TS guys. The boots I wore to see if they fit well under the pant leg. Which leads me to another point of yours, that the pants could be a bit more tapered. I agree w/ you, but since I commute by motorcycle, I need the pants to be able to fit over boots. I would like a more hourglass shape, like you have in your coats, but I'm not sure my body would accommodate that. By measurements, you might think so, I'm a 39/33/37. But I'm pretty narrow from a front/rear view (narrowish chest, etc).
Thanks. Part of me would like more extended shoulders. But I'm not sure that can be done w/o adding shoulder padding. I think the vent thing is partly because I have what Will Fields called a "prominent seat." But I would love a tailor or despos's comments, which hopefully will come soon in their new thread.
Maybe it does. It does drop a bit.
Cheers. Re: the olive green knit, RLPL or Bamford makes some great ones.
Did you ask Chan if they can do it without adding shoulder pads? I think it is possible.
Looks good, m. From what I can tell, Chan's default is a shorter front balance and I don't think it's necessarily wrong, it's just their style. Maybe one of the resident tailors can confirm, but I think some tailors do a longer front, some even and some shorter. The shorter front, especially paired with a strong shoulder seems to project an "at attention" military-inspired effect. I do think it's a little at odds with the softer, undpadded, shirt-sleeve shoulder.
Yeah, the thing I noticed in the photo is the vents are opening. I am also of prominent seat, so I just request more room around the waist and now my vents are fine. There's probably a more technical way to fix this than that.
Thanks for the thorough reply. My balance comment was less about the length of the front of the coat (as has been explained on here before, simply adding/subtracting length doesn't solve balance issues). Part of it has to do with with the length of the strap and where all features on the coat sit in relation to your torso. In a coat with short front balance, regardless of the relative lengths of front and back, the coat will look as if someone is grabbing it at the gorge and dragging it up towards the shoulders. It also often makes the quarters look overly closed. This is commonly seen with RTW on men who have erect posture (those with stooped posture have the opposite problem, of course). Your coat is not by any means a bad offender, but the balance does look slightly off to me. Not sure if I'm making any sense . . .
Thanks for the rec, T.
I think you're right, but it might droop. Iammatt once showed me that the canvas on his coats is extended from the chest, past the shoulder seam and over the back of the coat, a little like a shoulder pad. That allows more extension. I meant to ask Patrick about this, but forgot.
Very interesting. Thanks. I wonder if they could subtract some from the waist in the front, through the darts, and add some to the back or sides to keep some shape, but relax the seat area.
Now that you say that, I remember it. I'll take a look. Horns, now that I look at my shoulders, I think you're right that the right one sits a little more forward than the left.
emptym, just to let you know, it's very, very subtle!
Finally got around to this. Sorry for the delay:
Received my first Chan order on Friday: 8.5-oz H&S navy herringbone 3-roll-2.5 sport coat and medium grey 10 oz Minnis wool/cashmere (1%) trousers. I ordered in March and had the basted fitting in July. Nothing has been pressed yet. My two observations: 1) I tried to walk around and have my natural posture for the back photo, but there is still some buckling, so that might have to be a future adjustment. 2) The pants might be a bit long. Thoughts?
Chan certainly gets it right the first time.
Looks really great for a first order. At first glance it seemed that the jacket was very short, but it just seems like you have long arms like yfyf. Before doing any alterations I'd try and wear it for the season and see how it breaks in. Good luck and enjoy!
the trousers seem tu pull up in a "strange" way. probably afraid of the dm's...
listen to david. break it in before you start micromanaging. looks very good for a first.
Looks good, wear for a few weeks before trying minor changes. May well 'settle'.
Thanks, gents. I will take your advice and "break it in" for a while--wearing it today, in fact! I'm very pleased overall, especially for my first commission, and am already planning my next Chan purchase.
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