Show us how you roll in Engineered Garments

[zippyh]

EG popover. RRL pants, boots, and hat.

 

[amplol]

I believe this is a newer model - the trans jacket

Seeing a lot of interesting seaming and details in the photos and I'm curious!

 

[Beedub]

I believe this is a newer model - the trans jacket

Looks like the lapel buttons off and on? So is ‘Trans’ short for transfrom maybe?

 

[Phullyman]

Looks like the lapel buttons off and on? So is ‘Trans’ short for transfrom maybe?

Defiantly looks like it, the lapel looks like a separate piece if you look above the top button. Also has 2 tags on it. Maybe transform from blazer to cardigan?

 

[Beedub]

I think so? I wonder if there’s an option to button in some sort of quilted liner too, like in old military jackets, that would be cool.

 

[amplol]

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable about clothes knows, but this is what caught my eye the most.

 

[ramdomthought]

Defiantly looks like it, the lapel looks like a separate piece if you look above the top button. Also has 2 tags on it. Maybe transform from blazer to cardigan?

Looks like the lapel comes off to make it a lapelless. Also seems to come with two lapels to reattach - peak and shawl

It's the coolest conceptual jacket they've done in ages. Can't wait to see it and already the thing I'm most excited for

 

[blackcheer]

Looks like the lapel comes off to make it a lapelless. Also seems to come with two lapels to reattach - peak and shawl

It's the coolest conceptual jacket they've done in ages. Can't wait to see it and already the thing I'm most excited for

Daiki's in his "avant-garde" phase:

Engineered Garments Fall Winter 2024 Collection — Engineered Garments

The Fall/Winter 2024 collection from Engineered Garments is a profound journey into the personal and stylistic influences that have shaped designer Daiki Suzuki’s career. This collection, the third in a trilogy following Fall Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024, marks a culmination of Daiki's explora

www.engineeredgarments.com

 

[cadmonkey]

Looks like the lapel comes off to make it a lapelless. Also seems to come with two lapels to reattach - peak and shawl

It's the coolest conceptual jacket they've done in ages. Can't wait to see it and already the thing I'm most excited for

+1 I'm looking forward to seeing this jacket in person. Post used to make those collarless engineer jackets and those were perfect for layering without the collars getting so fussy.

just curious on fit but both lapels look clean and looks to have a dual vent back

 

[hollaholla]

Can anyone comment on the polyester/cotton fabrics that EG uses? I'm always surprised how much synthetic there is in the fabric composition, for example the "PC denim" in this season's officer pants is 65% polyester. Do these fabrics feel and wear ok? Are they breathable or sweaty? And do they have that polyester sheen that I remember from the 1980s or has fabric tech moved on?

Synthetics make me nervous. Am I wrong to be?

 

[DenimStudio]

Can anyone comment on the polyester/cotton fabrics that EG uses? I'm always surprised how much synthetic there is in the fabric composition, for example the "PC denim" in this season's officer pants is 65% polyester. Do these fabrics feel and wear ok? Are they breathable or sweaty? And do they have that polyester sheen that I remember from the 1980s or has fabric tech moved on?

Synthetics make me nervous. Am I wrong to be?

I’ll preface by saying that since I live in Texas, I don’t typically buy the poly/cotton blends as they do tend to wear a bit warm. As I understand it, that small bit of polyester helps the item look new and fresh 10+years from now. Of course there is a charm to some faded cotton cord pants though. That aside, there are 100% poly fabrics that have a cool hand feel, some of the micro-ripstop for example. And some of the 100% cotton fabrics like the PC poplin or double cloth for example, tend to trap heat because of the knit/weave.

My experience with any denim that has polyester in the mix is that it might have a cool touch at first but likely won’t be breathable unless it’s a looser knit or lightweight like under 12oz. From what I remember there won’t be a sheen but don’t expect it to distress and fade like a 100% cotton pair. There are a few Ivy shirts from spring that have a fun sheen to them but believe it or not, they’re 100% cotton.

It’s difficult to judge if you can’t try something on for an extended period but no need to be nervous of synthetics. It’s mostly for longevity of the product or to offer something new. Daiki has worked with really well known producers of fine natural fiber materials like Woolrich so it makes sense for him to utilize fabrics of mixed composition to offer something different. I don’t think these items are going to end up on racks like the unbreathable polyester clothes from the 70s-80s.

Fabric tech has definitely improved and Daiki has access to the best fabrics from the garment district and his collaborators but there is likely cos-consideration as well.

Overall, the only reason I would be nervous of synthetic garments is if I worked in a high heat environment or around fire. If you did, you probably already know how to dress for that job.

 

[hollaholla]

Thanks for this detailed reply! I feel a little emboldened and reassured now... I guess I can try to take a look at some of this season's items at Nepenthes in London when I'm next up there, but the real concern is the one you mentioned, about not having a chance to see how the fabrics feel when worn over a period of more than a few minutes.

What continues to bother me a bit is that e.g. you mentioned "that small bit of polyester" and for example Derek Guy's piece on synthetics for putthison (https://putthison.com/artificial-intelligence-a-guide-to-synthetic-fibers/) even mentiones EG by name: "A bit of acrylic might be added to an Engineered Garments sweater". However 65% seems more than a bit, to me.

But there's probably not much more to be said in a forum, unless people have direct experience to relate?

Thanks!

 

[Phullyman]

Daiki addressed it in an interview for FW20:

Let me also ask about fabric you used. Although you liked to use natural fabrics for a quite long time, you’ve been adopting synthetic ones in the last couple of years. I think matching those fabrics with classical designs makes ENGINEERED GARMENTS more attractive. What kind of changes occurred in you before you started using synthetic fabrics

D: Personally, I’ve always believed that being stylish requires some endurance. I mean, a middle-aged man sporting a tweed suit on a scorching day in September looks sophisticated to me. What I design is therefore based on such an idea. But I do understand people who love comfortable clothes, too. So I recently dare to adopt synthetic fabrics if I like the texture and appearance. In this collection, for example, I find the fake melton fabric quite nice. It looks like real wool at first glance, but it’s actually 100% polyester, lightweight and easy-to-care.

DESIGNER'S TALK：DAIKI SUZUKI

@hollaholla

This was a topic of discussion few years ago.

I am upset that the prices are going up and the amount of synthetics is going up too, but I do have pieces that are these synthetic blends and they do feel pretty good.

 

[hollaholla]

Thank you! This is just the kind of discussion I was hoping to locate. Sorry that I failed in my own searches -- I am very grateful you were able to dig the discussion up.

 

[blackcheer]

Thank you! This is just the kind of discussion I was hoping to locate. Sorry that I failed in my own searches -- I am very grateful you were able to dig the discussion up.

This article talks a bit about the shift:

[FABRIC INSIGHT] Multi Color Polyester Floral Camo

Welcome to FABRIC INSIGHT. With this series, we hope to give our customers a peek into the background of the fabrics that make up your favorite Engineered Garments pieces. Each season, the brand’s items are constructed from a range of fabrics, sourced from all around the world, imbuing each...

nepenthesny.com

Lots of other "Fabric Insight" articles on that blog.

I think Daiki and his team pick quality fabrics regardless of material