Shoulder expression

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jefferyd, May 25, 2011.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't understand people's obsession with adding padding for sloping shoulders. I think sloping shoulders are more natural than squared off shoulders. this is my biggest issue with padding and sleeveheads that are too padded, or wadded. It makes the point where the shoulder pad, or sleevehead wadding meets your natural shoulder look quirky as you move your arms. Too much divots with movement and such.
     


  2. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    I don't understand people's obsession with adding padding for sloping shoulders. I think sloping shoulders are more natural than squared off shoulders. this is my biggest issue with padding and sleeveheads that are too padded, or wadded. It makes the point where the shoulder pad, or sleevehead wadding meets your natural shoulder look quirky as you move your arms. Too much divots with movement and such.

    IIRC, formation of "divots" is a result of poorly attached sleeve head to shoulder and NOT because of too much padding.
     


  3. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    IIRC, formation of "divots" is a result of poorly attached sleeve head to shoulder and NOT because of too much padding.

    I think it's more to do with the sleeve-head being cut too tall rather than how it's attached [​IMG]
     


  4. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    I think sloping shoulders are more natural than squared off shoulders. .

    Some people have sloping shoulders. Some are fairly square. Neither is more natural.
     


  5. ajv

    ajv Senior member

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    What a pleasure to find such informative and interesting threads.

    Many thanks jefferyd.

    Adrian
     


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some people have sloping shoulders. Some are fairly square. Neither is more natural.

    To "build-up" sloping shoulders is unnatural. I am saying minimal padding should be used in either case.
     


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IIRC, formation of "divots" is a result of poorly attached sleeve head to shoulder and NOT because of too much padding.

    I think it's more to do with the sleeve-head being cut too tall rather than how it's attached [​IMG]

    Not divots when standing straight. I shouldn't have said divot, I mean the sream where the shoulder pad meets the natural shoulder at the sleevehead. When there is too much padding, or wadding when moving one can easily discern how much padding is in the jacket based on this point of movement. Too much padding makes the upper arms and shoulders look silly.
     


  8. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos In Time Out

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    Someone with sloped, hunched, or rounded shoulders would benefit. Also someone with very pronounced shoulder blades, or larger hips. I personally think that the majority of people could benefit with a bit of pad rather than the opposite. Take ODOT, for example- he has a well-balanced figure but his natural-shouldered suits make him look very bottom-heavy and pear-shaped.
    +1,000,000,000 I have never understood SF groupthink's obsession with natural/unpadded shoulders. A good 95% of the natural-shoulder devotees on this forum do not have the right builds for natural shoulders. There seems to be some weird association with padding as somehow "cheap" and "OTResque." In reality, a top-notch Savile Row talor would want to add padding, not take it away, if he deemed that your shoulders needed some. The goal of a suit jacket is to flatter your figure, not to lay bare its flaws. And let's be honest; few of us have utterly flawless figures.
     


  9. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Senior member

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    I do. [​IMG]
     


  10. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In reality, a top-notch Savile Row talor would want to add padding, not take it away, if he deemed that your shoulders needed some.

    The goal of a suit jacket is to flatter your figure, not to lay bare its flaws. And let's be honest; few of us have utterly flawless figures.


    Many will also add padding to the back of the scye if it helps fill it out. The goal of padding is not just to square off the shoulders but fill in a few hollows created when shoulders slope and hunch forward- it is almost impossible to get a clean back on some figures without a certain amount of padding or, worse, extra darts.
     


  11. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    IIRC, formation of "divots" is a result of poorly attached sleeve head to shoulder and NOT because of too much padding.

    I was talking with my tailor about this recently. Another contributing factor is the pitch of the shoulder on the jacket versus the pitch of your shoulder, personally. I continue to end up with divots along the section of the sleeeve head which runs along my shoulder blade because I hold my shoulders forward.
     


  12. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    To "build-up" sloping shoulders is unnatural. I am saying minimal padding should be used in either case.

    I have never understood SF groupthink's obsession with natural/unpadded shoulders. A good 95% of the natural-shoulder devotees on this forum do not have the right builds for natural shoulders.

    There seems to be some weird association with padding as somehow "cheap" and "OTResque."



    SF group-think, as championed by some of the better known posters, has made the natural shoulder de rigueur.



    In reality, a top-notch Savile Row talor would want to add padding, not take it away, if he deemed that your shoulders needed some.

    The goal of a suit jacket is to flatter your figure, not to lay bare its flaws. And let's be honest; few of us have utterly flawless figures.



    This may have been the goal of menswear, but with men wanting to look feminine, having strong masculine shoulders is no longer desired.
     


  13. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    [​IMG] Well if you really want to go all the way.
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I congratulate you for keeping one of the most steadfast elements of Style Forvm iCulture so fresh, which is reading what a professional writes in thread and then, downstream in the thread in your own post, ignoring what the professional wrote.

    Well done.

    Since jefferyd was so clear and concise, and supplemented what he wrote with diagrammatic photographs, he really should be ignored. It just wouldn't be right to pay attention to him in any way.


    - B


    [​IMG] [​IMG] classic

    btw i have lovely shoulders boys

    edit: i am sad jefferyd is not my tailor
     


  15. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    I congratulate you for keeping one of the most steadfast elements of Style Forvm iCulture so fresh, which is reading what a professional writes in thread and then, downstream in the thread in your own post, ignoring what the professional wrote.

    Well done.

    Since jefferyd was so clear and concise, and supplemented what he wrote with diagrammatic photographs, he really should be ignored. It just wouldn't be right to pay attention to him in any way.


    - B


    I take my Styleforum pledge of allegiance, to uphold and obey all SF traditions/ideas, very seriously.
     


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