Should I or shouldn't I buy... (clothing item)?

[Professor Χάος]

Agreed, oulipien. I appreciate your input.

 

[troika]

Need help, been struggling for a while... I really love the look but I have never bought chunky cardigan before : 1. I'm not sure how will it look after piling. 2. I'm not sure the use scenario of it. I think wearing it in late fall/winter outdoors is too cold because of no wind protection, and wearing it indoors or in spring is too hot. And as it is chunky it isn't appropriate for mid-layer. What do you think?

Fwiw imo that's not a chunky cardigan. I don't think the knit ends up being that thick, as opposed to a chunky knit that is cabled or patterned and you have multiple yarn sections going over each other. So while it may be warm, I don't think it'll be as warm as like s&c cardis or fisherman sweaters. Also the lack of cabling means it'll be easier to layer over a chunky knit.

I also doubt that it would pile easily, inish maiaiaiaiain is very highly quality in materials and construction. Donegal fleck is fire.

Are you maybe asking about the oversized nature?

 

[dieworkwear]

I dig the Gitman flannel, Chamula cardigan, and the Berg & Berg tweed (assuming it fits you)

Don't like the fabric on that Borrelli suit. I also wouldn't buy tailoring online unless 1) you can return the item or 2) you're very familiar with the cut. Even if the seller answered questions about measurements, measurements don't always tell the whole story with tailoring, so you either need a way to return or be very familiar with how that model looks on you.

Inis Meain jacket looks like it could be cool with some darker, moodier fit. Like cropped, carrot cut black pants and a white tee. Looks like it has a dropped shoulder seam and could be cool in a drapey way. But if you plan on wearing that with more classic items such as tan chinos, jeans, or grey flannel trousers, I would pick up one of their other knits or go for something like a Scott & Charters cardigan.

 

[ctttt777]

I dig the Gitman flannel, Chamula cardigan, and the Berg & Berg tweed (assuming it fits you)

Don't like the fabric on that Borrelli suit. I also wouldn't buy tailoring online unless 1) you can return the item or 2) you're very familiar with the cut. Even if the seller answered questions about measurements, measurements don't always tell the whole story with tailoring, so you either need a way to return or be very familiar with how that model looks on you.

Inis Meain jacket looks like it could be cool with some darker, moodier fit. Like cropped, carrot cut black pants and a white tee. Looks like it has a dropped shoulder seam and could be cool in a drapey way. But if you plan on wearing that with more classic items such as tan chinos, jeans, or grey flannel trousers, I would pick up one of their other knits or go for something like a Scott & Charters cardigan.

thanks, I do wish to wear it with grey flannels lol. Although I haven't really thought about how to wear, just don't think I'll have the chance to wear them rather frequently.

 

[ctttt777]

Fwiw imo that's not a chunky cardigan. I don't think the knit ends up being that thick, as opposed to a chunky knit that is cabled or patterned and you have multiple yarn sections going over each other. So while it may be warm, I don't think it'll be as warm as like s&c cardis or fisherman sweaters. Also the lack of cabling means it'll be easier to layer over a chunky knit.

I also doubt that it would pile easily, inish maiaiaiaiain is very highly quality in materials and construction. Donegal fleck is fire.

Are you maybe asking about the oversized nature?

thanks for the reply. I already have two inis meain sweaters one merino/cashmere blend, one full merino, and both piled. I think all the wool products, no matter manufacturer, material and quality, will pile over time. And you are right it's not chunky knit, it's oversized slopped shoulder, for which I do not think it should be wear as mid-layer.

 

[DoubleDouble]

Okay folks, I'm ready to buy my first "big boy overcoat" and I may need some help. So far I've only ever owned a cheap Gap navy wool hooded peacoat that has seen better days, and a beautiful but too-large grandpa-style Le Laboreur brown wool work jacket. Here's my thinking:

Requirements

1. Not too heavy as I live in the bay area (tho I used to travel occasionally during winter).
   • Length: no strict need for a longer coat, something shorter like a topcoat is fine.
2. Must work well mainly with casual clothing, but can also be worn on tailoring.
   • Notch lapel > peak lapel.
   • Slight preference for raglan shoulders as they are "easier".
3. Must work with my body type: 6'1" and 145 pounds, 37" chest, usually wear a 30 in pants and S (or rarely M) in most tops.
   • Not double breasted: imo they look better closed (which makes them warmer) and I think they look better on V-shaped people, which… I'm not. I'd look like an oblong rectangle.
4. Cost: around $1200 or below

Automatically excluded

• Classic polo, ulster, guard's coats, etc are all double breasted and, in my opinion, too formal and austere for what I need.

I'm considering

• Private White V.C. donegal overcoat
  Pros: Fits most requirements. An easy balcamaan style with a notch lapel and raglan shoulders. Color and fabric go well with casual as well as formal clothing, I find this to be the most versatile of the bunch.
  Cons: it weighs 800g (1.7 pounds) ? too warm maybe?
• Kaptain Sunshine traveller coat
  Pros: Fits most requirements. Another easy balmacaan in flexible fabric/color.
  Cons: I'm not sure it would work with my lanky frame. I fear it would give too much of a "grandpa coat" vibe being so oversized. Alas, sizing down doesn't seem like a viable option because of sleeve length (but I need to double check) and because the 36 is already sold out.
• Frank Leder mac
  Pros: Well within my budget. Actual loden wool, isn't that awesome? Super cool details (NOS buttons etc).
  Cons: In terms of shape and silhouette I've never found macs too exciting, but also not offensive. In terms of weight, I wonder how well this would perform on the occasional trip to Germany or the east coast.
• Doppiaa Aantistene
  Pros: Meets all requirements! Made by compatriots.
  Cons: I don't know if this kind of herringbone is going to be a great choice for a first coat.

Most of these are from NMWA because they're awesome and if I could I'd buy everything from them, like this Camoshita balmacaan that's way over my budget.

Honorable mentions:

• This Nisse raglan coat that's sold out in gray.
• This Drake's grey balmacaan that's as handsome as it is expensive.
• This Valstar Milano that's super plushie and it's gonna make a great second or third coat someday maybe.

 

[dieworkwear]

All those seem great.

If I were you, I would at least try the navy KS coat, as I think it's really good. If it doesn't fit you, I would try either the PWVC (which I believe is slightly slimmer than the KS) or the Doppiaa. I have a grey herringbone topcoat from Eidos, which I love wearing with blue jeans. I haven't tried it with grey flannels, but I suppose it would work with the right trousers. If I'm in grey trousers though, I just reach for something else (mostly my navy KS coat). I have an Aspesi Loden coat that's similar to the Frank Leder mac. I also like wearing that one with jeans, but I don't wear it that much with tailored clothing. Not sure why.

I don't have anything bad to say about the KS coat, but one thing to keep in mind is that it's likely heavier and warmer than the other options on your list. I also live in the Bay Area. IMO, the KS coat is too heavy for our weather in September and early October, but perfect for the weather we've been having in the last week or so.

If you already have a lot of outerwear, then you probably have things to wear in early fall and late spring.

 

[Newcomer]

@DoubleDouble:

I'd strongly recommend giving the Traveler Coat a shot. It is my favorite coat and the only coat where I have considered getting it in other colors. You listed a lot of great coats above, but the Traveler Coat is the most special.

 

[DoubleDouble]

I have to say that seeing the Camoshita on sale over at Trunk is REALLY tempting, but I'll try the KS first!

 

[Superb0bo]

i really like my Mfpen "Hollis" coat. Slightly lighter fabric, simple but dramatic cut and decently priced. Drop shoulders though so perhaps too casual.

edit: obviously not in your list,sorry about that. Others might be interested though.

 

[hoodog]

Cabourn. Costs plenty, looks great.

 

[Sluggies]

Thoughts on this SELECTED HOMME turtleneck? 90% merino 10% silk, 44$

 

[Dadacantona]

Okay folks, I'm ready to buy my first "big boy overcoat" and I may need some help. So far I've only ever owned a cheap Gap navy wool hooded peacoat that has seen better days, and a beautiful but too-large grandpa-style Le Laboreur brown wool work jacket. Here's my thinking:

Requirements

1. Not too heavy as I live in the bay area (tho I used to travel occasionally during winter).
   • Length: no strict need for a longer coat, something shorter like a topcoat is fine.
2. Must work well mainly with casual clothing, but can also be worn on tailoring.
   • Notch lapel > peak lapel.
   • Slight preference for raglan shoulders as they are "easier".
3. Must work with my body type: 6'1" and 145 pounds, 37" chest, usually wear a 30 in pants and S (or rarely M) in most tops.
   • Not double breasted: imo they look better closed (which makes them warmer) and I think they look better on V-shaped people, which… I'm not. I'd look like an oblong rectangle.
4. Cost: around $1200 or below

Automatically excluded

• Classic polo, ulster, guard's coats, etc are all double breasted and, in my opinion, too formal and austere for what I need.

I'm considering

• Private White V.C. donegal overcoat
  Pros: Fits most requirements. An easy balcamaan style with a notch lapel and raglan shoulders. Color and fabric go well with casual as well as formal clothing, I find this to be the most versatile of the bunch.
  Cons: it weighs 800g (1.7 pounds) ? too warm maybe?
• Kaptain Sunshine traveller coat
  Pros: Fits most requirements. Another easy balmacaan in flexible fabric/color.
  Cons: I'm not sure it would work with my lanky frame. I fear it would give too much of a "grandpa coat" vibe being so oversized. Alas, sizing down doesn't seem like a viable option because of sleeve length (but I need to double check) and because the 36 is already sold out.
• Frank Leder mac
  Pros: Well within my budget. Actual loden wool, isn't that awesome? Super cool details (NOS buttons etc).
  Cons: In terms of shape and silhouette I've never found macs too exciting, but also not offensive. In terms of weight, I wonder how well this would perform on the occasional trip to Germany or the east coast.
• Doppiaa Aantistene
  Pros: Meets all requirements! Made by compatriots.
  Cons: I don't know if this kind of herringbone is going to be a great choice for a first coat.

Most of these are from NMWA because they're awesome and if I could I'd buy everything from them, like this Camoshita balmacaan that's way over my budget.

Honorable mentions:

• This Nisse raglan coat that's sold out in gray.
• This Drake's grey balmacaan that's as handsome as it is expensive.
• This Valstar Milano that's super plushie and it's gonna make a great second or third coat someday maybe.

Have you considered a raincoat balmacaan? Anglo Italian do one with a zip out liner, which I have and find really versatile. London Fog used to make them with zip out wool or synthetic liners in the 60s, 70s etc, and they were near-ubiquitous in the States.

I have a tweed balmacaan too but I generally only wear that in the coldest months. Not too sure what the weather is like in the Bay Area but I suspect it’s warmer than Northern England, where I live, so something like this might get you through winter.

This is the Anglo Italian model in beige but they also have it in navy and khaki: https://angloitalian.com/products/balmacaan-coat-beige

It‘s perhaps not as refined as a wool coat but looks great with tailoring and casual fits.

 

[WBaker]

Cabourn. Costs plenty, looks great.

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[hoodog]

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lol not sure if this is good or bad?