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Should I or shouldn't I buy... (clothing item)?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by kronik, Jun 25, 2008.

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  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    The issue is really the length of the jacket, not the buttoning point. The reason why the buttoning point is so high is because the jacket itself is really short. If you had the buttoning point at its traditional position, which is the waist, then the buttons would be too close to the hem. That would make the bottom half of the jacket look weird. Short jackets all have high buttoning points for that reason -- as you lift the hem up, everything else has to follow (buttoning point, gorge, etc).

    Anyway, I think OP should pass on the jacket. If you keep it though, this seems like one of those examples where the coat would look better worn open than closed. When you fasten it like that, all the things that make the proportions look less than great are exaggerated (e.g. the buttoning point issue).

    Lots of CM jackets don't have anything in the shoulders. The Armoury's travel jackets, Bogolioli's K line, P Johnson Tailors, and English Cut's new MTM program (to be debuted later this year or next year). Also available without vents.
     


  2. il_colonnello

    il_colonnello Senior member

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    Absolutely, fully agree. That's why I said it's a concomitant of the short length. Maybe I should have stressed that the buttons are too high for the wearer, not for the jacket.

    As for vents, I am firmly in the (traditionally-minded) CM camp, if for no other reason than that vents make sitting down in a suit/sports coat so much less awkward. On the other hand, the shorter the jacket, the less need there is for vents, so I guess considering the trend over the last decade or so toward shorter suits and sports coats, it's only consistent that vents are falling out of favour...
     


  3. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial Dubiously Honored

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  4. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

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    I probably sound overly dismissive of CM, and I agree that no matter what approach you take, the regular old conventions of how to dress at least exist and your own approach to dressing falls somewhere in relation to them (following, tweaking, flaunting, &c.). I'm not sure how much I'm going to get from that side of the board that I didn't already get from reading Dressing the Man by Alan Flusser however many years ago.

    Thanks for the suggestions, I'll poke around at some of those brands. I thought Boglioli was always vented, but maybe they're worth another look. I'm a little skeptical of being able to find everything I'm looking for (ventless, soft non-wool fabric, casual, soft shoulder, flap-less pockets, slim-ish fit) without veering off into crazy MTM / MTO territory.
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    The RTW ones will be vented, but some of those are MTO/ MTM, which will give you the option of having almost whatever you want, so long as it's within range of their house style. Boglioli is RTW.

    From your description though, that does sound more like something you'd get from a SWD RTW brand.
     


  6. notwithit

    notwithit Pullup laureate

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    Yeah...I think I want to stick to SW&D brands here. I looked up a few of those and it's all very MC-looking even if it's on the MC casual side. Also, those look like they're at least a grand a piece while HWL can be found on sale for sub-$200. IDK, the only thing I'd say is an actual hole in my wardrobe at this point is something in the brown / tan / camel (maybe taupe) color range, and I'm in no rush to find something.
     


  7. Zassiliss

    Zassiliss Senior member

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    Love mine, but there's this weird range of temps you can wear this in because it's a super thick fabric but unlined--its too awesome to matter usually though
     


  8. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Uh oh, considering how warm it's been here lately... what's this range you speak of?
     


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