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Should adding waist suppression always result in a bit of "opening" of the front "quarters"?

jrd617

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I was just thinking about this visually. When heavy waist suppression is added to say, a drop-6, Italian suit, shouldn't the result be that the quarters get opened up a bit? (By virtue of removing material and shaping the sides)

The reason I'm asking is that I'm looking at a 3-roll-2.5 suit with what looked to closed quarters. But I think they should open up?

I've thought about not getting it because I prefer open quarters. ("X"-shaped vs. "Y"-shaped)

See below for the "Y"-shaped suit I want to get that I hope will turn into more of an "X" with the waist taken in. (Probably 2 inches or so)

 
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jrd617

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Thanks, CM. Looking forward to hearing what others think.

My reasoning is that you can indeed see the quarters "open" up when a fitter is pinning a jacket for waist suppression. You can see the buttons move
 

jrd617

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These quarters actually overlap quite a bit. It’s extremely closed. So while the alteration might open them relatively speaking, they’d still appear fairly closed.
 

Despos

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Several points to consider with your question. This jacket in your picture doesn't look like it is seated on the mannequin properly. The fronts are scissoring a bit and may be that the lower button being buttoned is pulling the front panels and making them cross more than they would when not buttoned. It is rare to see the jacket overlap as much as this one does at the lower button.
The jacket will drape differently on a human form. How open the fronts can be will change with the persons posture. Erect posture will cause the front panels to scissor and cross over as the picture shows. A round back or stoop will open the fronts quite a bit.
If i was pinning the jacket to reduce the waist and the front panels started opening I would stop because that is pulling the front too far to the back and would create bigger issues. Diagonal stress lines from chest to back. If the jacket fits in every other way and you want more curved/open fronts; find a tailor to reshape the front by cutting away the cloth creating a bigger curve on the edge. The only alteration related method to opening the fronts is to shorten the back but that changes the jacket balance. Do this only if it is necessary to correct the balance for your posture.
 

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