Shortening Jackets- Any Advice???

[Gus]

I have two jackets with patch pockets that I am considering getting shortened. Both are size Longs, so they already look a bit longer than a regular cut. Because of this it seems that taking them up a bit should work. The fabrics do not have a pattern, so moving the patch pockets up won't be an issue. The button stance on both is already at a good level and not low. My tailor is very good so I am confident of the quality of his work.


Anything else I should be considering or aware of? What is the most that you have shortened a jacket and had it still look good?

 

[Holdfast]

I generally try to restrict this sort of operation to a maximum of 0.5"-0.75". Maybe a fraction more if the button stance is higher than average, I guess. Actually, I try to avoid buying any jacket where it's needed at all, but occasionally it's unavoidable when you're a short guy like me and don't buy everything custom.

Others have done more, I know, but I think the overall aesthetic on most jackets starts to suffer beyond this range. How much they suffer depends on your own eye.

 

[lee_44106]

G,

shortening a jacket is easier on a patch pocket. In the past my jacket-shortening diasters had to do with the pocket placement afterwards. With a patch pocket you can always resew it higher so as not to throw off the balance.

the only other thing I can think of is the button stance, but seems like you got that covered.

 

[Parker]

The tailor should also retain the same curve and top stitching (if any) along the bottom hem.

 

[polar-lemon]

Another possible issue is the length of the vent(s). If they are already on the short side, then shortening the jacket might make them look quite odd. It's something to consider at the very least. Another is if there is pick stitching on the coats, you will have to trust your tailor to redo it so as to seamlessly match the original work.

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by Parker

The tailor should also retain the same curve and top stitching (if any) along the bottom hem.

Yes, and judging the curve, especially, requires a good eye and therefore the need for a good tailor.

 

[stickonatree]

i shortened about 1.2 inches on my one of my jackets and it looks fine, since the button stance was exactly where it needed to be anyway.

 

[Gus]

This is good input guys.

I mainly wanted to double check for any surprises. I have a great tailor, button stance is very good and the vents are plenty long as are the jackets. They are currently 33" on a size 42L. A 42R is currently around 30.5"-31". I have a very long back, so a long has always worked for me. I was thinking taking them up about 1 full inch or so. Even then they will be on the long side of fashionable but not "NBA".

 

[TRINI]

When I shorten, I try to make sure the distance between the top of the pocket and the hem is about 9.5".

 

[ThinkDerm]

has anyone found that many "Regular" length jackets are actually quite Long for the size? like BOC 31 to 32.5 ? I am 5'10" and just find these to be way too long for "regular" length jackets.

I think a 30" length from BOC would be better for "regular" sized guys at 5'10" - anyone else agree?

 

[Threadbearer]

I recently had two jackets shortened a very small amount. My tailor was kind enough to pin each one up for me at several different lengths so that I could choose just the right amount. He wanted to make certain we got it right because this is not an adjustment that can be undone.

I was really surprised to see how easy it is to throw off the overall shape of a jacket just by shaving a little fabric off the bottom. We ended up taking off about 3/8". He thinks I'm a bit of a nut to be concerned about less than half an inch of length on a garment as large as a jacket, but he humors me because my fussiness pays his overhead.

 

[StopPolloition]

I have shortened a BB Golden Fleece from a 33 inch back length to 31.75. Looking back on this, I wish I had only shortened it to 32.25 or so. It does look a little bit, but not noticeably cropped. Mostly the quarters look more squared than I would have liked. It still looks very nice though.

 

[meauounji]

Originally Posted by polar-lemon

Another possible issue is the length of the vent(s). If they are already on the short side, then shortening the jacket might make them look quite odd. It's something to consider at the very least. Another is if there is pick stitching on the coats, you will have to trust your tailor to redo it so as to seamlessly match the original work.

hmm... yes and no on the vents, I think. Short vents can work very well as a style, citing Ralph Lauren Black Label as an example. They have very short vents by modern standards (about 6") but work very well for the look it gets.

I think I do know what you mean, though. First Black Label I got (from Holdfast!) I was spazzing out at how short the vents were, but they really grew on me and now I love it.

 

[polar-lemon]

Originally Posted by meauounji

hmm... yes and no on the vents, I think. Short vents can work very well as a style, citing Ralph Lauren Black Label as an example. They have very short vents by modern standards (about 6") but work very well for the look it gets.

I think I do know what you mean, though. First Black Label I got (from Holdfast!) I was spazzing out at how short the vents were, but they really grew on me and now I love it.

I have no issue with those short BL vents, but imagine if you were to shorten them another inch or even more...then it would look really weird.

 

[boo]

A potential issue with shortening jackets with a well-defined waist is that it will be moved too close to the hem of the jacket. Instead of an hour-glass shape on the body you end up with somewhat of a chalice shape.