• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Short vs Too Short: New pictures (p3) -- critique welcome!

literasyme

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
963
Reaction score
3
As some of you may have seen, I recently posted (on WAYWRN) a couple of shots of a new sports coat whose length I'm concerned about. A handful of posters agreed that it looked a little trim -- there were even suggestions of Thom Brownish tendencies.

That got me thinking about our standards for jacket length more generally. I know the usual answers, of course -- it's either the curled-fingers test or the covering-the-buttocks test. I find the latter far more meaningful, since the former obviously depends on factors like arm-length that have little to do with torso measurements (and hence jacket length).

Now, while a lot of the most respected posters on WAYWRN wear their coats fairly long, certainly long enough to follow the curled-fingers standard, more than a few others opt for a significantly shorter coat while steering well clear of Thom Browne territory. What they all seem to have in common is that they're either from continental Europe or appear to prefer Italian brands. And then there's yfyf.

It's a look I also like a lot, and most of my coats are fairly short by American standards. But I wouldn't mind getting a clearer sense of where people on SF see the line between the acceptable and the faddish or silly in terms of jacket length. So here are a few examples of what I'd consider somewhat unconventional looks (again, by American conventions), especially if you pay attention to the relation between where the trouser legs begin and where the coat ends. I should stress that I admire the style of all these posters!

20090122mg2958by3.jpg
1.jpg
20081224mg2601ci9.jpg

Afb615.jpg
waywt070209.jpg

YFYF-2009-02-06-re.jpg


And here, for comparison's sake, is a shot of the (right out of the Yoox box & hence very wrinkled) jacket I'm uncertain about (please ignore the sleeves -- they can and will be let out):

DSCF1539.jpg
DSCF1554.jpg


So, share some collective wisdom. All too short? All just as short or long as they ought to be, since it's a matter of personal preference? Do any of them look Thom Brownish to you, and if so, why?
 

padronlover

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Messages
1,244
Reaction score
3
I am all for the modern shorter jackets but even to me, yours looks too short.
frown.gif
 

Standard Toaster

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
253
Reaction score
0
The size of the rise on trousers plays a big part. Look at yfyf, the longer rise somewhat offsets the shortness of the jacket.

Also, that picture confirms 3B jackets look ridiculous when they're too short.
 

Harrydog

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2006
Messages
658
Reaction score
52
Only the second jacket and smiley face suit work for me.

The rest are too short. One suit has the waist supression occurring across the lower rib cage; to me the torso looks deformed as a result.
 

Hany

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
489
Reaction score
0
First row: too short; perfect; too short
2nd row: too short
3rd row: perfect
4th: too short
 

lee_44106

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
8,043
Reaction score
100
your jacket is too short in the classic menswear sense, but in this age of Thom Browne influence, it's OK.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
5,024
Reaction score
141
Originally Posted by literasyme
I know the usual answers, of course -- it's either the curled-fingers test or the covering-the-buttocks test.
Personally I don't use either of these, I prefer the bottom of the jacket to fall about halfway between the neck and the ankles, so that neither your legs or torso look unnaturally long, though depending on the particular style it can be a bit shorter, which will also have the (possibly desirable) effect of making your legs look longer. I think possibly you have slightly longer legs than average? This may be why the jacket looks a little short. The trousers are also too tight, which isn't helping. Normally the bottom of the jacket might be roughly in-line with the crotch of the trousers, but the crotch of your trousers is higher than it should be because of the tightness...(or maybe it isn't, but it looks that way)
 

fcuknu

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
4,454
Reaction score
5
I love the first two, I think they look fantastic. Some people, especially slimmer people can pull this off and make it look very good.
 

JayJay

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
24,297
Reaction score
439
Originally Posted by Standard Toaster
The size of the rise on trousers plays a big part. Look at yfyf, the longer rise somewhat offsets the shortness of the jacket.

I also think the rise makes a difference. Yfyf's jacket looks perfect to me.
 

JayJay

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
24,297
Reaction score
439
Originally Posted by merkur
Where should the jacket fall in relation to your fingers/fingertips/knuckles?
confused.gif

Using fingers/fingertips/knuckles as a gauge doesn't work for me due to disproportionately long arms. My jackets end up too long if I use that measure.
 

bigbris1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2007
Messages
6,964
Reaction score
15
If your bum is hanging out under the back of the coat, you're a chick.
 

SK8

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
YFYF works well because you can't see his belt\\top of his trouser poking through his jacket. His pant rise works in harmony with the jacket.
 

maomao1980

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
1,719
Reaction score
106
Keep in mind shoulder width, waist suppression, and sleeve length play a big part in how short a jacket "looks"
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.0%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 61 38.9%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 10.8%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.2%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 29 18.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,246
Messages
10,579,671
Members
223,910
Latest member
Vitamindeemeisrael
Top