Shoes

[banksmiranda]

Edward Green
John Lobb (let's include both Paris and St. James)
Crockett & Jones
George Cleverly
Trickers
Church's
Grenson
Joseph Cheaney
New & Lingwood
Master Lloyd
Stefano Bemer
Santoni
Silvano Lattanzi
Tanini Crisci
Bonora
Ermenegildo Zegna
Stefano Branchini
Robert Ugolini
A Testoni
Marini
Meccariero
Stefano Bi
Peron & Peron
Enzo Bonafe
Sutor Mantelassi
Salvatore Ferragamo
J.M. Weston
Berluti
Corthay
Aubercy
La Cordonnerie Anglaise
Allen Edmonds
Alden
Johnson & Murphy
Albaladejo
Yanko
Bally
Eduard Meier
Balint
Materna
Vass

I got these names from the "Mens Ex" magazine cover. I added Vass to the mix. Many names I am generally familiar with, while some I have never heard of.
How would you rank these makers in terms of construction quality? How do you rank the companies which make RTW shoes? How do you rank the companies which make custom shoes? How would you rank the makers who do private-label work? I would want shoes that are Goodyear-welted.

 

[keys]

May I add Artioli to the mix?

I'd be very interested in how they compare to many of the brands you've listed.

V-

 

[banksmiranda]

By all means, feel free to add whatever you feel like.
Does Mezlan have a place on this list?

 

[norcaltransplant]

IMPOSSIBLE TASK I think this excercise might be one of futility. Â Different shoemakers appeal to individual taste based on lasting, construction, styling, and even finishing. The Italians might surpass 100 brands alone... English: Alfred Sargeant French: Herschung Paraboot Italian: Prada* Gucci* Barrett Moreschi Peluso Lidfort Tod's Kiton Fratelli Rossetti Venturini & ?? (the strange Norwegian welted shoes Barney's carries in the Mad Avenue store). What, no Kenneth Cole? J/K

 

[banksmiranda]

Let's rank these based on construction/lasting and finishing since styling is somewhat more subjective.

 

[discostu004]

we all know AHarris would probably be the final say. i rank mantellassi #1 by far b/c they always fit me perfectly and always draw compliments, but like someone said, it's a taste thing as i don't usually go for the more english shoes w/o the welt stitching and heavier look

 

[NYCDan]

I think it would wise to break down between Italy, England, Other Europe, USA etc... And I adore Lattanzi, but I adore my new wife more so like Jimmy Carter I have lust in my heart.

 

[Urban Warrior]

WOW, this is some list... Should we take into consideration that many of the brands listed also have various levels/lines of shoes? For example C&J and Santoni both have a production line and than one with much more handwork etc...

 

[LabelKing]

Also Sergio Rossi, and Cesare Paciotti.

 

[A Harris]

This is a rather tall order. Many of the brands have multiple lines of varying quality. Only a few of them use any degree of handwork in the "making" of the shoe.

 

[banksmiranda]

Considering what you fellows said, that many of these makers have lines of varying quality, let's compare these makers' "premium" lines. In addition, as was also mentioned, let's go ahead and rank by region.

 

[T4phage]

Wow, that is quite a list, and nearly impossible to qualify. You need to break it down into regions, and then into bespoke/rtw, and then into levels (premium, etc).

 

[banksmiranda]

Let's do:

USA
Italy
Britain
France
rest of the world

and make the following comparisons:

1. premium RTW shoes
2. best premium-quality private-label makers
3. custom footwear

I suppose we should add Perry Ercolino and Roman Vainguiz(of Vincent & Edgar) to the mix.

 

[banksmiranda]

Let's try to limit it to Goodyear-welted shoes. That could help somewhat to quickly narrow the field.

 

[LA Guy]

What is with the obsession with rankings? It's like that ranking the Universities thing. I went to a University that jumped from number 9 to number 4 (maybe 3?) in one year (with no substantive differences having been made in the intervening year) and fell from grace to number 9 again the next year. The variables are so many and the parameters so uncertain that it is meaningless to do anything but to group makers, perhaps, within the smaller subsets proprosed. But a discussion on whether Vass is better constructed that John Lobbs is a useless, and frankly, an asisine use of our time.

Obligatory jab: notice that the board members who have discussed streetwear have never tried to "rank" brands, not even brands of jeans (which would be much easier to do than for shoes.) Their have been discussions of preferences, and rants about the quality of a particular companies products (more often raves), but a general acknowledgement that much depends on personal tastes. Tailored suit and bespoke shoe guys, please don't go all Robb Report on us (hate their aspirational asses.)