Shoes or boots with tweeds?

[Avebury]

I'm considering buying a nice herringbone tweed suit (poss. Cordings 'Firley'). Do forum members have any suggestions as to the perfect boot or shoe combination? I'm thinking along the lines of brogues or traditional ankle boots in chestnut or burgundy. Rounded toes, no pointy lasts. Ideally a quality British shoemaker. The pic gives you a general idea of what I'm after.

The model looks like he's wearing the old Grenson "Tor" boot. Must be an old photo - as far as I'm aware you can't buy that style of boot anywhere in England at the moment. It's astonishing, really astonishing that such as a classic design has been so neglected in recent years.

The downside is that if I dressed like that I might look a bit of a tit. (Actually shows how we've all sucumbed to the casual look (T-shirts and jeans, etc). Smart now looks out of the ordinary.

Possibilities (so far):

CJ - "Finsbury" or "Westfield"
Tricker's - "Bourton"

Edward Green - "Galway", "Cadogan" (but jolly expensive)

Not keen on Church's, Grenson, Loake, Barker, Alfred Sargent.

Boots - there's nowt out there!

 

[ManofKent]

Originally Posted by Avebury

I'm considering buying a nice herringbone tweed suit (poss. Cordings 'Firley'). Do forum members have any suggestions as to the perfect boot or shoe combination? I'm thinking along the lines of brogues or traditional ankle boots in chestnut or burgundy. Rounded toes, no pointy lasts. Ideally a quality British shoemaker. The pic gives you a general idea of what I'm after.

The model looks like he's wearing the old Grenson "Tor" boot. Must be an old photo - as far as I'm aware you can't buy that style of boot anywhere in England at the moment. It's astonishing, really astonishing that such as a classic design has been so neglected in recent years.

The downside is that if I dressed like that I might look a bit of a tit. (Actually shows how we've all sucumbed to the casual look (T-shirts and jeans, etc). Smart now looks out of the ordinary.

Possibilities (so far):

CJ - "Finsbury" or "Westfield"
Tricker's - "Bourton"

Edward Green - "Galway", "Cadogan" (but jolly expensive)

Not keen on Church's, Grenson, Loake, Barker, Alfred Sargent.

Boots - there's nowt out there!

Are you sure you don't want to go the Barker route:

Barker Harrison.

 

[Avebury]

Ah, that's interesting. Did you change the colour from cedar calf to burgundy? I've got a pair of Hamiltons - I actually quite like the colour. They are decent, good quality shoes, but a tad too bright for tweeds. Darker browns work well - chestnut/burgundy/oxblood. Yours look good.

 

[ManofKent]

Originally Posted by Avebury

Ah, that's interesting. Did you change the colour from cedar calf to burgundy? I've got a pair of Hamiltons - I actually quite like the colour. They are decent, good quality shoes, but a tad too bright for tweeds. Darker browns work well - chestnut/burgundy/oxblood. Yours look good.
Sort of - mine weren't cedar calf, they were a discontinued dark tan (mid-dark brown), but I've given them several coats of Woly Nevada Brown and mainly Mahogany - it colours them quite quickly. Personally though I don't mind Cedar with Tweed (I've got the Barker Naairn's in Cedar Calf).

 

[ManofKent]

Another thought - Ihaven't got a pair yet but both the Cheaney Hythe and Tenterden look really nice country shoes to my eyes.

 

[Avebury]

I'm not keen on the Cheaney range myself. I guess if I'm after country I'd go for Tricker's largely because they do what they say on the tin - heavy, robust. But the last isn't to everyone's taste. It's one of the few true country styles around. The leather on Tricker's is much better too. The only others I'd consider would probably be the CJ "Snowdon" or the Barker brogue boot, which you've got. I like Barker. Never see AS in the flesh, so can't say. By the way, I think they have the "Hythe" in the sale at the Church's shop in Jermyn Street. Not 100% on this. I popped in on Sat to browse. Might be worth a check. They also have the "Bobby" which is quite nice too.

 

[academe]

I think the choice between something that's a bit "chunkier" or "country-influenced", compared to a brogue on a sleeker last should be influenced by the rest of your wardrobe. If your wardrobe is generally on the more casual end of the spectrum, then a solid, chunky pair of Trickers might be for you. If you tend to were "city" suits and colours more often, then chose something with a sleeker last. At least that way, you'd have some versatility for the shoe.

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by Avebury

I'm not keen on the Cheaney range myself. I guess if I'm after country I'd go for Tricker's largely because they do what they say on the tin - heavy, robust. But the last isn't to everyone's taste. It's one of the few true country styles around. The leather on Tricker's is much better too. The only others I'd consider would probably be the CJ "Snowdon" or the Barker brogue boot, which you've got. I like Barker. Never see AS in the flesh, so can't say. By the way, I think they have the "Hythe" in the sale at the Church's shop in Jermyn Street. Not 100% on this. I popped in on Sat to browse. Might be worth a check. They also have the "Bobby" which is quite nice too.

I would tend to agree that C&J or Trickers might be a bit better made than Cheaney and Barker, though if the shoe fits...

I quite like the Snowden. Have you seen the Pembroke? I think it may be my next shoe. I like the shape of the last and the Scotch grain has a nice texture to it.

 

[Avebury]

That's a nice looking shoe. CJ to their credit do have an authentic country range - I quite like the look of the "Veldt", "Sedbergh" and "Grasmere". A few options leather wise with the last one. The last shapes are also quite rounded and line up well against Tricker's boots and brogues.

I think it's a shame that AS don't have a catalogue or a retail outlet in London. It's difficult to really know how good they are. However, I wasn't hugely impressed by one I did look at in the NSS in Covent Garden- not a patch on the Grn "Bleasdale". Just wasn't as well made.

Cheaney's have a small shop on New Bond Street and Grenson on Liverpool Street. No reason why AS or Loake couldn't, in principle, do the same. Guess it's all about overheads. Loake have re-designed their website. I'm surprised that they haven't considered setting up a Loake shop.

In my view, the website, like the catalogue, is just as much of a shop window as the shop window itself. From my own experience (and probably many other people), you start looking at the website, order the catalogue and if you're hooked visit the shop. AS fails on all three. Loake fails on one. Likely that if you're interested enough you pop into London have a look around and say...but Church's have good shoes too, oh and Crockett and Jones. Result: lost sale.

Tricker's I think fail on the first two and their shop (which is being refurb) is very dark inside. So they fail more or less on all three. It's difficult to see the shoes. Same point: pop into London, pop next door to CJ instead. I find it crazy that the top end makers don't see these links.

 

[academe]

^^^

I completely agree with you on the marketing aspect of things in the UK. I wonder how much of it is inertia, i.e., some of the makers have developed a kind of reputation amongst the "gentry" and by word of mouth, and have relied on a small niche market to survive? They may have done well enough so far that they don't feel the need to change their business model for the 21st century. I'm also curious to see how well they market their products in other countries - for example, I understand that AS has a large presence in Japan, and are quite popular there. I wonder if they get more department store or boutique display space in Japan?

 

[Ich_Dien]

Have you considered the C&J Skye? I can't find a picture of it but believe it to be a brogued boot.

I own a herringbone tweed three piece myself, and find the look actually needs a more sleek shoe, to contrast the overall look of being fusty.

***EDIT*** have I just made this style up? I hope not.

 

[Avebury]

Originally Posted by jimmyoneill

Have you considered the C&J Skye? I can't find a picture of it but believe it to be a brogued boot.

I own a herringbone tweed three piece myself, and find the look actually needs a more sleek shoe, to contrast the overall look of being fusty.

***EDIT*** have I just made this style up? I hope not.

I have to admit it's not one I've looked for. On the whole I'm not all that keen on brogue boots, but I appreciate the quality. I think the best boot for tweeds would be a plain derby with toecap on a traditional last on a double leather sole. As mentioned, chestnut, oxblood or burgundy would work well. Boots look particularly good with turn-ups. I'm quite surprised that CJ don't do a boot like this (Harlech and Villiers excepted). After all, they have something like eight chukka boot styles and five chelsea boot styles in their main collection. This perhaps reflects changing fads and fashions and the throw them on and off nature of the style. I think that if more people were wearing suits, they'd be looking at their trousers legs and asking for boots! There is a gap at the moment between the smart-casual boot and the country boot. C'mon makers, create!