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Shoes Explained

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Harris, Nov 10, 2003.

  1. Rankiz

    Rankiz Senior member

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    Nov 26, 2010
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    Norway
    Too bad... since I want to know the difference between all different shoe styles.
     
  2. furo

    furo Senior member

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    Apr 6, 2009
    +1 would be nice to see the original pics revived in some form or another
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. CalTex

    CalTex Senior member

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    Liquidating Assets
    

    +1
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. HanSoo417

    HanSoo417 Senior member

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    Louisville, KY
    
    +1
     
  5. Louys

    Louys Senior member

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    +1
     
  6. TorontoJK

    TorontoJK Member

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  7. Cant kill da Rooster

    Cant kill da Rooster Senior member

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    [ATTACHMENT=4125]Shoe Basics.doc (696k. doc file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    If this works.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. Moody Allen

    Moody Allen Member

    Messages:
    14
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    Dec 4, 2011
    Could somebody please explain what kind of construction is this? These shoes are made by a local Russian brand. Styling is tacky, but the leather is actually pretty good. What bothers me, is that I can't understand what kind of construction is that. It seems that this is not a Goodyear welting — because the stitching pattern on the welt and on the sole is different. I wonder, what is stitched and what is glued here.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Location:
    London, UK
    

    I would say, the shoe is blake-stitched with a bonwelt in place. Bonwelts are leather strips which have the look of conventional welts but in reality, they serve only a decorative and no practical purpose.

    Scroll down to 'bonwelts' in the catalogue. They come in 'endless' length, (rolls of 50 metres or so). Several have already a row of stitching in place,

    http://www.barbourcorp.com/pdf/welting_catalog.pdf

    Last the boots over the insole, glue the bonwelt in place. Glue on the middle sole (which probably has the rubber outer sole already attached). Then you remove the last from the shoes and guide the shoe through the blake stitching machine. One row of stitching will go through insole, the teeth of the bonwelt, middle and outer sole.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Moody Allen

    Moody Allen Member

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    Dec 4, 2011
    Thank you! So, being Blake-stitched, these shoe will actually have the stitching go through the sole into the chamber of the shoe, making them wet weather useless? Not a wise decision for a "hard-wearing" boot...
     
  11. dinowhite

    dinowhite Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 29, 2012
    this shoe construction business is getting ever more varied. I guess this has been the case for some time, but the days where a list would always consists of the traditional, norvegese (and other triple stitches), gyear, blake-rapid, rapid , bologna , 'simply glue' are gone

    tough luck for pic based internet examinations
     
  12. Moody Allen

    Moody Allen Member

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    Dec 4, 2011
    dinowhite, yes, you are right. But the brand doesn't answer, and buying and disassembling the shoe isn't that practical either, so I thought that someone experienced here would be able to tell.

    By the way, my lady friend has this pair of shoes by Hudson, and the construction seems to be pretty similar, at least the bonwelt and blake stitching part.
     
  13. dinowhite

    dinowhite Well-Known Member

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    Jul 29, 2012
    I understand that of course

    but I do think that in many instances -especially if we are not talking about 'dress shoes', (but even then)- the actual 'construction' is not that important if the quality is right
     
  14. Moody Allen

    Moody Allen Member

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    Well, sure, when buying some cheap crap-kickers to get through the winter I generally could care less about their construction, but if the pair is Blake-stitched, like it looks to be the case with the pair above, it seems pretty ridiculous. Why don't they just glue them? Who knows what the collective mind of Russian designers and Chinese shoemakers thought of...
     
  15. glenjay

    glenjay Senior member

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    Feb 13, 2009
    Location:
    Bend, Oregon
    

    I have a blog that I started a couple of months ago that has a shoe style album of the different styles at (http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?cat=11). The album is about half way down the Shoe Types and Styles post.
     
  16. geo88

    geo88 New Member

    Messages:
    3
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    Aug 12, 2010
    Darn, the pics from the first post aren't working anymore. Is there any alternative collection of such photos in one place in this forum? (No, Google isn't it).
     
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 12, 2011
    check glenjay's very informative blog.

    many of the best threads on this forum have picture missing from a great forum crash.
     
  18. prady

    prady Active Member

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    Apr 12, 2011
    

    This!
     
  19. XFactor

    XFactor Senior member

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    Jan 23, 2012
     
  20. pferrari

    pferrari Member

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    Apr 23, 2014
    WOW! What a great thread, was trolling around and found this....very informative.
     

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