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Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

Schweino

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I see different methods of attaching rubber outsoles to midsoles in GYW shoes: Mostly they are glued to the midsole and then the midsole end rubber outsole are both stitched to the welt. I also see some makers where the rubber outsole is just glued to the midsole, in this case just the midsole is stitched to the welt.

Which is the better/most durable method? When a resole of the outsole is needed, is it always needed to also replace the midsole because the cork need to be replaced also? Or will just replacing the outsole be sufficient?

I can imagine that if the latter is the case, glueing a rubber outsole to a GYW midsole is the most durable because you only have to replace the glued outsole when it's worn without having to rewelt te entire shoe.

Would like to hear your thoughts

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JustPullHarder

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I see different methods of attaching rubber outsoles to midsoles in GYW shoes: Mostly they are glued to the midsole and then the midsole end rubber outsole are both stitched to the welt. I also see some makers where the rubber outsole is just glued to the midsole, in this case just the midsole is stitched to the welt.

Which is the better/most durable method? When a resole of the outsole is needed, is it always needed to also replace the midsole because the cork need to be replaced also? Or will just replacing the outsole be sufficient?

I can imagine that if the latter is the case, glueing a rubber outsole to a GYW midsole is the most durable because you only have to replace the glued outsole when it's worn without having to rewelt te entire shoe.

Would like to hear your thoughts

View attachment 1689899

View attachment 1689902
There's also the case where only the toe is stitched (Vass). In my view, the stitching helps with areas such as the toe that are likely to get bumped which might cause the rubber to separate.
 

DWFII

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I don't know what purpose would be achieved by stitching a midsole and outsole to the welt. At that point the midsole is superfluous. Maybe for show or expectation.

If the midsole and rubber outsole are prepared correctly (cleaned and primed) cementing a rubber outsole to a midsole that has been stitched to the welt is sufficient. A lot of work shoe/boots are done this way. And as you said it makes resoing a little easier.

All that said, GYW is not a Traditional technique. xD
 

JFWR

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I don't know what purpose would be achieved by stitching a midsole and outsole to the welt. At that point the midsole is superfluous. Maybe for show or expectation.

If the midsole and rubber outsole are prepared correctly (cleaned and primed) cementing a rubber outsole to a midsole that has been stitched to the welt is sufficient. A lot of work shoe/boots are done this way. And as you said it makes resoing a little easier.

All that said, GYW is not a Traditional technique. xD
I can't believe I just saw a 70 year old retired boot maker use an anime emoticon.

That's very xD
 

DWFII

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I can't believe I just saw a 70 year old retired boot maker use an anime emoticon.

That's very xD
75-1/2...and I play Kingdom Come: Deliverance. It is used pretty often over on the Steam forum. I did not know it was anime.
 
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Schweino

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There's also the case where only the toe is stitched (Vass). In my view, the stitching helps with areas such as the toe that are likely to get bumped which might cause the rubber to separate.
That's interesting. Is the midsole fully stitched and the toe of the (rubber) outsole stitched again then? So basically double stitched at the toes?
 

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