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Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

ntempleman

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Lasting nails dont necessarily need to go through the wood to hold the upper in place for stitching. Better all round if you try not to in fact, preserve the wood of the last, the insole will hold the nail ok
 

DWFII

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I had a similar question, I have a last with a metal heel plate, which nails or tacks do I use? will clinching nails come out after clinching? Did it take prices of leather with it when and if you managed to remove them?
Well, I wouldn't use clinching nails unless I intended them to be permanent (or as permanent as they can be once they start rusting).

Clinching nails will take a small (some would say insignificant) amount of leather with it when the nail is pulled. It's very like a fish hook in your ear. If not visually at least in concept and mechanics.

But as I mentioned in an earlier post when iron rusts it stains the leather--the first stage in what is effectively a carbonization of vegetable tanned leather. Eventually the leather gets brittle just as if it were burned. A clinched nail will take out considerably more than a "small amount" under those circumstances and often considerably earlier than when the insole is fully carbonized. .

FWIW, I have taken metal heel plates off lasts and filled the shallow rebated area with a piece of split soling leather. Works a treat--no functional difference except now you can peg the heel seat.
 

PhilJB

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On a different subject... It's been said here and elsewhere that when stitching the outsole of a dress shoe, high stitch rates (people talk of SPI in the high teens) are not as strong as lower stitch rates.

I wondered what the optimal number of stitches per inch would be purely from a structural point of view (setting aside aesthetics) for a typical hand welted dress shoe?
 

ntempleman

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Depends on the thickness of the material, but for a typical 1/4” sole then somewhere around 11, 12 or 13 has long been the standard for west end work
 

daizawaguy

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I asked before on the custom shoe thread I believe, I am after trying to find out from when metal toe plates were used on town shoes. I am familiar with the quarter steel heel, but cannot find any photos of shoes which are custom and have front steel tips - any ideas or photos to show how far this goes back please?
 

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