• We would like to welcome American Trench as an official Affiliate Vendor. American Trench is a Philadelphia based outerwear, apparel, and accessories brand, making all of its products in the United States at (mostly) family owned factories. . Please visit the American Trench thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

shoesforever

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
275
Reaction score
477

Ok, first I would like to say that I know Dr.Martens aren't what we would normally consider quality shoes, but I do find the video interesting since I've never seen how they make their shoes before. They seem to use a PVC welt instead of one in leather. No stitching is used to attach the outer sole, but it is instead melted onto the welt. Yet, they still call this goodyearwelted.

22118972d0e55392fddc495969ead58d.jpg
 

EnglishShoes

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
526
Reaction score
330
Great video from G&G. I could watch that patina work all day! So satisfying.
 

Dandy_dapper

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
186
Reaction score
81
Oh my gosh, the procedure seems to be very rought, I have never thought that Goodyears Welt were so complicated to manufacture, they will last longer indeed.
 

Xune

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2017
Messages
113
Reaction score
94
I have never thought that Goodyears Welt were so complicated to manufacture
Then try to find some videos from handwelting :) Instead of gluing holdfast canvas you actually have to carve it from the insole (usually - and hopefully - one of better quality than in GYW) and then do the hard work manually.

what is a fiddle? :puzzled:
17:27 "with what we call a fiddle waist" If I heard correctly. I'm guessing it's fiddleback waist.
 

wurger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
3,969
Reaction score
3,502
I understand what is a fiddle back waist. However, Tony said:" Basically what the rib does that the welt's stitched onto is it leaves a little bit of void, around about 3 mm between the sole and the insole of the shoe. So in that void we put a wooden shank in there and a fiddle to kind of give the shape and the support that you need and then we fill the whole void with cork."
 

EnglishShoes

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2014
Messages
526
Reaction score
330
Yes, I guess he means he inserts something to mould the outsole around to give the shape of a fiddleback.

How do they make the fiddleback on bespokes? Do they carve it out of the thick insole or is it something inserted below the outsole?
 

Dandy_dapper

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
186
Reaction score
81
If you please could help me...

I´m looking for a pair of shoes for a different look to work, brown moonkstraps looks to risky?
 

Nick V.

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Messages
1,926
Reaction score
1,468
from that video, when Tony was talking about corking, 12:40 to 13:05, he mentioned a wooden shank, and a fiddle for shape.

what is a fiddle? :puzzled:
It's made of cork -or- preferably leather that's shaped and cemented on top of the foot-bed so that when the sole is attached the leather will follow the shape creating the fiddle appearance.
 

ntempleman

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2014
Messages
1,355
Reaction score
2,682
Yes, I guess he means he inserts something to mould the outsole around to give the shape of a fiddleback.

How do they make the fiddleback on bespokes? Do they carve it out of the thick insole or is it something inserted below the outsole?
Generally use a leather shank in bespoke, which you can shape however you like
 

daizawaguy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
1,285
Reaction score
1,670
Interesting video, but the similarity to bespoke shoes was mentioned so many times that it got to be a cliche. GG sure have their place in the upper end of RTW, but to infer its more bespoke than other GW shoes is a false claim. The irony is Tony showing the GW machine and admitting its introduction was the start of mass produced footwear. Bespoke is bespoke, RTW is RTW, and to blur the lines is to pull the wool over peoples eyes. Seems though Kirby was clearly leading him on, and Tony lapping it all up and not knowing where to draw the line. That to me though epitomizes GG - a newcomer still to find their identity. The quicker they solidify this, the more solid their base. Nothing against claiming using superior leathers or finish, but customers paying the top end of the RTW prices know or quickly discover the differences to bespoke.
 

Featured Sponsor

Where do you usually take inspiration for your style? Choose up to 3 answers

  • Styleforum & other menswear forums

  • Instagram

  • TikTok

  • Reddit

  • Fashion Magazines

  • Fashion Blogs

  • Friends & Acquaintances

  • Celebrities/influencers

  • TV Shows & Movies


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
477,112
Messages
10,187,978
Members
214,166
Latest member
jsteward76
Top