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Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DWFII, Aug 23, 2014.

  1. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

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  2. shoesforever

    shoesforever Senior Member

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    Ok, first I would like to say that I know Dr.Martens aren't what we would normally consider quality shoes, but I do find the video interesting since I've never seen how they make their shoes before. They seem to use a PVC welt instead of one in leather. No stitching is used to attach the outer sole, but it is instead melted onto the welt. Yet, they still call this goodyearwelted.

    22118972d0e55392fddc495969ead58d.jpg
     

  3. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Well if the machine they stitch the welt on with is made by the Goodyear company, then they are
     

  4. shoesforever

    shoesforever Senior Member

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    Last video from The Hanger Project: "Gaziano & Girling Factory Tour"

     

  5. EnglishShoes

    EnglishShoes Senior Member

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    Great video from G&G. I could watch that patina work all day! So satisfying.
     

  6. Dandy_dapper

    Dandy_dapper Senior Member

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    Oh my gosh, the procedure seems to be very rought, I have never thought that Goodyears Welt were so complicated to manufacture, they will last longer indeed.
     

  7. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

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    from that video, when Tony was talking about corking, 12:40 to 13:05, he mentioned a wooden shank, and a fiddle for shape.

    what is a fiddle? :puzzled:
     

  8. Xune

    Xune Active Member

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    Then try to find some videos from handwelting :) Instead of gluing holdfast canvas you actually have to carve it from the insole (usually - and hopefully - one of better quality than in GYW) and then do the hard work manually.

    17:27 "with what we call a fiddle waist" If I heard correctly. I'm guessing it's fiddleback waist.
     

  9. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

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    I understand what is a fiddle back waist. However, Tony said:" Basically what the rib does that the welt's stitched onto is it leaves a little bit of void, around about 3 mm between the sole and the insole of the shoe. So in that void we put a wooden shank in there and a fiddle to kind of give the shape and the support that you need and then we fill the whole void with cork."
     

  10. EnglishShoes

    EnglishShoes Senior Member

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    Yes, I guess he means he inserts something to mould the outsole around to give the shape of a fiddleback.

    How do they make the fiddleback on bespokes? Do they carve it out of the thick insole or is it something inserted below the outsole?
     

  11. Dandy_dapper

    Dandy_dapper Senior Member

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    If you please could help me...

    I´m looking for a pair of shoes for a different look to work, brown moonkstraps looks to risky?
     

  12. Nick V.

    Nick V. Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    It's made of cork -or- preferably leather that's shaped and cemented on top of the foot-bed so that when the sole is attached the leather will follow the shape creating the fiddle appearance.
     

  13. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior Member

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    Generally use a leather shank in bespoke, which you can shape however you like
     

  14. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior Member

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    Interesting video, but the similarity to bespoke shoes was mentioned so many times that it got to be a cliche. GG sure have their place in the upper end of RTW, but to infer its more bespoke than other GW shoes is a false claim. The irony is Tony showing the GW machine and admitting its introduction was the start of mass produced footwear. Bespoke is bespoke, RTW is RTW, and to blur the lines is to pull the wool over peoples eyes. Seems though Kirby was clearly leading him on, and Tony lapping it all up and not knowing where to draw the line. That to me though epitomizes GG - a newcomer still to find their identity. The quicker they solidify this, the more solid their base. Nothing against claiming using superior leathers or finish, but customers paying the top end of the RTW prices know or quickly discover the differences to bespoke.
     

  15. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

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    Anyone hear from @DWFII recently? I havent seen him posting for a while.
     

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