Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

[DWFII]

Thank you for your clarification.

However, I'm still having trouble picturing how it is being done though.

Silk is such a delicate woven fabric, how can it hold the heel in place, and be fastened enough so it won't move when walking?

Pretty sure (I've never done it...very few living shoemakers have, esp. with such finesse) that the silk heel covering is "backed" with leather.

 

[Vinsep]

Pretty sure (I've never done it...very few living shoemakers have, esp. with such finesse) that the silk heel covering is "backed" with leather.

Are there anything to be gained by using wooden block instead of leather stacks?

 

[DWFII]

Weight.

 

[Vinsep]

Weight.

I assumed this kind of shoe was made for women. Therefore I never thought weight would be of benefit. Forgive my ignorance, could you kindly explain why weight would be beneficial here?

 

[DWFII]

I assumed this kind of shoe was made for women. Therefore I never thought weight would be of benefit. Forgive my ignorance, could you kindly explain why weight would be beneficial here?

Well, in the first place, this kind of heel construction was made used for both men and women's shoes. That was just the only photo I had.

In the second place, what I meant is that a leather heel stack would weight much more than the wood.

 

[Vinsep]

Well, in the first place, this kind of heel construction was made used for both men and women's shoes. That was just the only photo I had.

In the second place, what I meant is that a leather heel stack would weight much more than the wood.

That makes much more sense. Thank you!

 

[ntempleman]

I believe layered heel lifts were once upon a time stitched, but not in the method described in the photo series. Hats off to the guy for making that method work though, looks awfully fiddly. A simpler way would be to pierce each layer with a curved awl, much like when welting. Still very time consuming and you’d need thin lifts, unless you’ve got a whopper of an awl.

 

[DWFII]

I believe layered heel lifts were once upon a time stitched, but not in the method described in the photo series. Hats off to the guy for making that method work though, looks awfully fiddly. A simpler way would be to pierce each layer with a curved awl, much like when welting. Still very time consuming and you’d need thin lifts, unless you’ve got a whopper of an awl.

I have never heard of that being done beyond the first (or maybe first two) lifts.

If you get a chance to look through June Swan's (past Keeper of the Shoe Collection at the Northampton Shoe Museum) book Shoes, she documents the technique illustrated in the silk shoe above for both men's and women's shoes from the 17th century through the early 19th century--James I to George III. At which point, high heels seem to have gone out of favour to some extent

 

[DWFII]

@ntempleman Also on page 24 of the aforementioned book--Shoes taken from M. de Garsault's 1767 L'Art du Cordonnier which details the patterns and general construction of this kind of sewn heel.

 

[onijo84]

Gentlemen, I hope this is the right thread to ask the following. It might have been covered but I can't seem to find it the earlier posts. Should you guys happen to have stumbled upon one that covers my concerns, kindly drop me a link to that post(s). Thanks in advance.

1. There are a few types of lasting pincers. What would be the difference between the continental/french pincers and the round or square nosed ones?

2. Is there a way to determine the right size for the lasting pincers? It seems that they come in different lengths.

 

[DWFII]

1. There are a few types of lasting pincers. What would be the difference between the continental/french pincers and the round or square nosed ones?

2. Is there a way to determine the right size for the lasting pincers? It seems that they come in different lengths.

Well aside from the shape of the jaws, there is no way to know what you're asking. In my experience, there are any number of types of lasting pincers all of which may have round or square jaws. Maybe some photos would narrow it down?

Length is mostly for your personal preference or perhaps leverage. Width of the jaws is really the way I choose pincers as that determines where they can best be used.

 

[onijo84]

Well aside from the shape of the jaws, there is no way to know what you're asking. In my experience, there are any number of types of lasting pincers all of which may have round or square jaws. Maybe some photos would narrow it down?

Length is mostly for your personal preference or perhaps leverage. Width of the jaws is really the way I choose pincers as that determines where they can best be used.

Thanks DW for the reply. I could have been more clear with my questions. Apologies. I am looking to get a lasting pincer. Preferably something similar to what Berg produced. From my search, I found some Barnsley made ones with different noses. Schein made pincers based on Berg's design was another that was suggested. As of this moment, I am leaning toward Barnsley as it comes up quite often online. Perhaps getting one narrow and one broad nose to work on specific areas? Will add some photos.

 

[ntempleman]

The best of the Berg clones I’ve got are from Minke, the Scheins are sort of chrome plated which I’m not too keen on and the bolt protrudes either side of the pincers. There’s three sizes of Berg, and the cloners tend to offer the narrowest and the middle sizes. The two I use most are the widest and the narrowest. If you only wanted one then you could get away with the middle only, but the narrow one is extremely useful.

Not sure I remember what shape the Barnsley pincers are, but you often see those pincers with straight jaws online. Swedish pattern are what you want really, with curved jaws.

 

[Goodman]

I have a question re. heel length. I noticed on a pair of handmade shoes the heel stack was a fairly typical 1.125 inches but the length was approximately 3.3 inches. I compared them to a pair of Alfred Sargent shoes I was wearing which had a 1 inch stack but the heel length was closer to 2.75 inches. I was curious if this is purely an aesthetic choice or if there are benefits (or disadvantages) to a longer heel. I was thinking the longer heel might create a more stable platform underfoot but then wondered if it would interfere with a natural stride. I was also wondering if it would affect the wear of the heel and sole at all? Just curious...

 

[DWFII]

I agree with @ntempleman but I have a wide array of pincers. I have two bona fide Bergs--one narrow jaw, one medium. I have three Scheins--one narrow, one medium and one extra wide. i don't particularly mind the chrome.--it has never come off. I also have a "wide" German version.

I have several Whitcher style pincers made by Christenson, and Union and a older pair which is similar to the ones Barnsley offered. IMO, these are better (better leverage, more direct) for the first draft in the toe and again in the heel esp if you are lasting "seats up."

And I have three pair of bulldogs.

And FWIW, while most of my pincers started off life with a fairly square jaw, I always take the "corners off slightly (while still retaining the "square-ish' shape) and smooth out any sharp edges (not the teeth).

I am not fond of straight jawed pincers.