Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

[bengal-stripe]

Can anyone tell me the exact name of the tool that is used to make these triangular patterns on the sole?

There are numerous wheels used in shoe making. While some have a defined purpose: fudge wheel, heel seat wheel, others are simply decorative and can have any repeating design as pattern. They are usually called 'fancy wheels'.

The pattern with the triangles is called 'scalloping' (at least in England) and can come in various configurations.

 

[DWFII]

Can anyone tell me the exact name of the tool that is used to make these triangular patterns on the sole? I know each tool has a specific name, I just can't seem to find it on Google.
View attachment 815891

I suspect that pattern was made by a fudge wheel or a "bunking" wheel used on edge.

"Crow" wheels are a Traditional and fairly common name for ornamental wheels used to decorate the bottom of the shoe, esp. in the waist. However, every crow wheel that I have seen that would make such a pattern also incorporated a line of "beads" to one side of the "scallops".

 

[Notch]

@bengal-stripe @DWFII : Thank you for your detailed response!

I would like to purchase a similar tool, however thus far had not much luck on Ebay. There seem to be very few of these tools around. If you happen to now where I could buy one of these crow or scalloped wheels, please let me know.

 

[bengal-stripe]

I would like to purchase a similar tool.....

Look out for 'embossing wheels'. They usually come as a handle/carriage and exchangeable metal wheels with a variety of patterns.
https://www.mainethread.com/index.php/tools/cutting-tools/product/26-embossing-wheel-carriage-459v

Here are some of the patterns they use in the Loake factory, but you can use any pattern you like as the wheeling is simply decorative.

Check out the catalogues of Goetz-Service or Minke in Germany.

P.S. Look in the Vass book. page 170 'Ornamentation' to see embossing with a 'fancy wheel' being done.

 

[DWFII]

Actually Arford in Northampton http://arfordenterprises.co.uk/ShoeTools.html carries a huge range of crow wheels and other shoe tools although on occasion the individual wheels themselves don't turn freely in the handles / carriages, necessitating a judicious use of emery paper.

 

[willyto]

I've been reading for a long time this thread and it's one of the most interesting ones in SF with a lot of knowledge.

I have a few question for the Shoemakers and shoe lovers that sure know more about shoes than me:

When did canvas lining (Quarter leather lining only) stop being used as a common liner for shoes? Why was it abandoned in favor of full leather lining? What are the main differences in their use as liner?

I prefer vintage shoes(1920s-1950s) over modern ones mainly because of the style and because I can get them for cheaper prices than modern equivalents (I also enjoy caring for them making them wearable again) but apart from the obvious differences in techniques, style, stitching, leather thickness and construction among other details the thing that most suprises me is that at some point they stopped using canvas as a common liner for the shoes and started using leather.

There are some brands making classic model shoes like Sanders in the UK that uses the quarter leather lining instead of full leather lining but apart from that I haven't found any other brands that do it. In fact I confused that brand shoes for vintage once before knowing of them because the styling and construction and even the heel rubber design was the same as seen on those of the 1940s in military shoes in the UK.

I hope I'm not making too many questions and please if I'm stating something wrong I'd appreciate to be corrected and learn.

 

[DWFII]

From what I know, aside from the occasional specialized summer shoe, canvas linings were always associated with lower cost, manufactured shoes. It was a cost cutting measure.

Leather lining has always been the premium choice...although a leather lining does not necessarily mean that the shoe is top quality. There are a lot of manufactured shoes out there that have leather linings but are decidedly low end.

 

[vmss]

I got the chance to see many shoe brands during my visit in New York recently. I was at JGrew the other day and came across some GYW shoes (not Alden) made for jgrew. While looking at the shoe I notice the gemming/linen tape sticking out.

I wonder if all shoemakers from lower to high end use the same linen tape or does the quality of linen tape/gemming differ from the brands from low end to high end?

 

[Jacobs]

@DWFII

Just have to say, I'm incredibly impressed with not only the depth of your knowledge but also the polite manner in which you dispense it.

 

[DWFII]

@DWFII

Just have to say, I'm incredibly impressed with not only the depth of your knowledge but also the polite manner in which you dispense it.

Thank you.

 

[DWFII]

I wonder if all shoemakers from lower to high end use the same linen tape or does the quality of linen tape/gemming differ from the brands from low end to high end?

I suppose there may be a couple different iterations but since it is all machine applied and manufactured to fit those machines the differences cannot be all that great.

And bottom line I don't believe there could ever be "good, better, best" gemming, for the simple reason that the principles of use as well as the philosophy of use remains the same across the board...from Walmart shoes to high end cachet brands.

 

[dopey]

I am not sure how well you can see the photo, but this is a shell cordovan upper separating away from the insole. These shoes have had a factory resoling about a year ago. Would that have contributed to the fatigue that led to the upper tearing on the perforations? Or is shell cordovan less elastic and just more vulnerable to that kind of stress. Note also that these are unlined.

 

[DWFII]

I am not sure how well you can see the photo, but this is a shell cordovan upper separating away from the insole. These shoes have had a factory resoling about a year ago. Would that have contributed to the fatigue that led to the upper tearing on the perforations? Or is shell cordovan less elastic and just more vulnerable to that kind of stress. Note also that these are unlined.

Yeah, not a real good photo. But I think that it is a combination of factors. Any damage, no matter how slight incurred during the resoling would, naturally be very significant. For instance, the inseam thread looks relatively pristine. Perhaps they re-inseamed the shoe. If the inseaming was not done in the very same holes, well of course, that would weaken the leather.

All that aside, I don't put shell anywhere near the top end for tensile strength...it's not even really a hide--it is a muscle sheath...with few if any of the strengthening attributes of a hide and "real" leather.

 

[starro]

All that aside, I don't put shell anywhere near the top end for tensile strength...it's not even really a hide--it is a muscle sheath...with few if any of the strengthening attributes of a hide and "real" leather.

Is it theoretically possible to tan the muscle sheath with the skin on top, unremoved? Would this product then have the positives of both shell cordovan and normal horsehide?

View attachment 819256 I am not sure how well you can see the photo, but this is a shell cordovan upper separating away from the insole. These shoes have had a factory resoling about a year ago. Would that have contributed to the fatigue that led to the upper tearing on the perforations? Or is shell cordovan less elastic and just more vulnerable to that kind of stress. Note also that these are unlined.

To my eyes the rip seems to be located higher than where the perforations should be? Could this be casualty from another part of the re-sole: say a poorly done re-lasting?

 

[DWFII]

Is it theoretically possible to tan the muscle sheath with the skin on top, unremoved? Would this product then have the positives of both shell cordovan and normal horsehide?

I don't know. I suspect if it were possible it would have been done before now. Off hand, I suspect the intervening subcutaneous fat would make it very difficult--it's a break in the fiber mat and the two layers would not have any attachment.