Shoe shine troubleshoot

[nomad4]

I used some 91% isopropyl alcohol (saturated a fingertip's worth of shoe shine cloth) to strip the toe of my shoes (bought them from MAB before they switched to the new Italian shoes). Now, I can't seem to get that area to shine. I've tried to recondition them with Saphir renovateur and Colonil aloe vera lotion, but nothing's working. The wax just isn't taking hold. I let the wax dry and try to get it to shine, but it seems to just kinda spread out and not stick to the shoe. Any clue how I can save them? Any pointers/tips/info/etc. or anything helpful at all is greatly appreciated: I can't really afford to buy a new pair of nice shoes

http://img689.imageshack.us/i/img0019qm.jpg/ Pic isn't great, I can take better ones if you guys need to get a better look.

 

[emptym]

After looking at the pic, my guess is that the shoes had a thin plastic finish that the alcohol removed. If I were you, I'd keep applying the renovateur, then some cream, then the wax. I wouldn't use he aloe product. I think you need an oil/fat based cream and not a water based one.

 

[nomad4]

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. I'll go ahead and try that over the weekend. I hope it works. I have Saphir neutral shoe cream luckily. If those two don't work (Saphir renovateur and cream), do you have any suggestions for other products to try?

 

[emptym]

I'd use some black cream. Meltonian is what I use. And just make sure that the next pair you buy is not made with corrected grain (Allen Edmonds, Alfred Sargent, Alden, etc.)

 

[westinghouse]

Shoe shine problems usually start and dinish with shoe quality.

 

[Northampton Novice]

Sorry can't access the pic otherwise I'd post.

 

[nomad4]

I posted the image on another site: Thinking back, I remember now that I never properly stripped the shoe before I shined it. I just started straight away. So I suppose it's possible that the factory finish on it was stripped off when I used the alcohol. The rest of the shoe seems to shine up just fine, it only happened in the toe area where I used alcohol. In the heel, I've developed a mirror shine very easily (good enough to tell the time off of). I'm not sure if these shoes are corrected grain, what are some telltale signs? In regards to the quality of the shoe, I know price doesn't mean everything, but they cost me $750 at Michael Andrews Bespoke, and so far they have taken a shine better than my Allen Edmonds (thanks to emptym I now know that AE is corrected grain). I still suspect that the alcohol is the culprit, but then again, I really don't know a thing about what I'm talking about I checked out that sticky thread of high-end shoe list, but given an $850-$900 price range, do you guys have any recommendations for shoe companies that don't use corrected grain leather?

 

[mrjames]

99% sure you have removed the factory finish, I did the same thing to my shoes when I scrubbed them for hours to remove the colour, now just look a very dull and wont take a shine.

After polishing them with coloured wax (kiwi) 30 times (with moist cotton wool, and small circles- about 4 days of solid work) they are getting normal again. So condition and polish, repeat

 

[nomad4]

I guess I'll just have to put in 4 days of work! Let's just hope it actually works: I pray it will. Thanks for sharing your experience, it makes this ordeal a little more comforting lol Just to make sure I'm doing the right thing, let me get something straight. I should probably let each layer of wax dry for about ten minutes before I rub in the next one, right? Should I use water like I do for a mirror shine? Insensitive, at $750, I can't afford to just toss em

Could you tell me how they look cheap? It might be the bad photography and the fact that I have about a year's worth of wax built up on them. A travesty, I know, but I'm still learning

 

[Northampton Novice]

The pic is not of a high enough quality for me to be able to definitively comment on whether that's corrected grain.

If the affected area feels rougher essentially the rubbing alcohol has removed/burnt through a layer of the leather. Best way forward is to condition that area in stages allowing the leather to rest in-between.

I would use Renovateur (or preferably Lexol conditioner as it is absorbed into the leather very quickly) sparingly and apply it gently to the area and then allow to dry. I would leave it overnight buff off gently the next day and then evaluate whether the area looks/feels any better. If not repeat the process once more and then apply a colored shoe cream, I think your shoes are black so use that - not neutral as you would want to restore color pigments.

I would then leave the shoes alone for a few days, cream again and then apply a wax polish for a hard shine. You may need to persevere with the wax polish but if the above doesn't help and you feel the shoes are somewhat ruined you could take them to a good cobbler or if you want a DIY solution you could buy a tin of kiwi renovating polish designed to cover scuffs, restore color and shine - but be warned it contains silicone which is bad for your shoes in the long run.

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by nomad4

... The rest of the shoe seems to shine up just fine, it only happened in the toe area where I used alcohol. In the heel, I've developed a mirror shine very easily (good enough to tell the time off of). I'm not sure if these shoes are corrected grain, what are some telltale signs? In regards to the quality of the shoe, I know price doesn't mean everything, but they cost me $750 at Michael Andrews Bespoke, and so far they have taken a shine better than my Allen Edmonds (thanks to emptym I now know that AE is corrected grain). I still suspect that the alcohol is the culprit, but then again, I really don't know a thing about what I'm talking about I checked out that sticky thread of high-end shoe list, but given an $850-$900 price range, do you guys have any recommendations for shoe companies that don't use corrected grain leather?
No, no, no. AE does not make shoes with corrected grain (afaik. Maybe they have some models that have it). I listed AE, Alden, and AS as makers of non-corrected grain shoes that are not super expensive (w/ the exception of AS's highest, "handgrade" line). Sadly, they do not look like $750 shoes to me. If I were you, I'd take them back to MA Bespoke and ask if they are indeed made of corrected grain leather. They look like it to me. That wouldn't be too uncommon for shoes that cost that much (Prada, Gucci, etc. do it). But for $750 you could get all kinds of much better shoes, including AEs, Aldens, AS (any line below handgrade), C&J, EG on sale (try the B&S subforum), Martegani, Trickers, Vass, etc.

Originally Posted by Northampton Novice

...If the affected area feels rougher essentially the rubbing alcohol has removed/burnt through a layer of the leather. Best way forward is to condition that area in stages allowing the leather to rest in-between. I would use Renovateur (or preferably Lexol conditioner as it is absorbed into the leather very quickly) sparingly and apply it gently to the area and then allow to dry. I would leave it overnight buff off gently the next day and then evaluate whether the area looks/feels any better. If not repeat the process once more and then apply a colored shoe cream, I think your shoes are black so use that - not neutral as you would want to restore color pigments...
I don't think rubbing alcohol would remove a layer of leather. I've used it on a few pairs of belts and shoes, and it hasn't done that, ime at least. But it can remove glossy, artificial finishings. I do agree that he should use black cream and let the shoes rest for overnight or more after each application of lotion or cream, so that it can absorb into the leather. Insensitive is right too, that it would be best to wipe off any excess conditioner or cream before polishing. Edit: Btw, nomad4, the merits of Lexol and Renovateur have been debated recently on SF (DWFII for Lexol and RIDER for Renovateur), but I don't think you should rush out and buy one if you already have the other. Also, if you have Saphir polish, you don't need Kiwi polish. Here, I think Saphir is the clear leader, though I have Kiwi and like it.

 

[nomad4]

Oh, thanks for clearing that up emptym, sorry about the confusion. I read here on the forums that AE calls their corrected grain "polished" leather. I saw on their custom order shop that they have "custom calf" as an option, and also "polished calf". I assume that the old information saying that polished leather is corrected grain, but that their "custom calf" would be suitable for shining up nicely? Thanks NN, that detailed advice will definitely make it into my notebook of accumulated knowledge. I've only got Renovateur, so it looks like I'm adding Lexol leather conditioner and Kiwi renovating polish to my shopping list. Here are some more pics: Please excuse the poor appearance, rest assured I don't wear them out looking like that

I've already applied some Renovateur to them, thus the smudgy appearance. You can see the grain of it though. That's just the tip, so here's another picture: I hope that I can report back and say that I saved my shoes. Thanks for the feedback Insenstiive. I'm not being defensive, but the rest of the shoe seems to shine up well: what about the leather looks to be poor quality? I ask because I'm just trying to learn, so I can avoid purchasing bad shoes in the future. So for now, I've learned NOT to use alcohol, to make sure I do not purchase shoes made with corrected grain, and how to potentially rescue shoes from alcohol abuse In the future, so I don't screw any more shoes up (I've already ruined a pair of Allen Edmonds Sohos by applying Sof Sole mink oil to them tsk tsk tsk), what should I do to strip the wax? This time, I used alcohol and it ruined my shoes, so naturally I'm rather frightened to use it again lol. I keep hearing conflicting advice in regards to acetone and alcohol that's been cut, etc....it would seem that the safest option is to take no shortcuts and use some saddle soap, yes?

 

[Northampton Novice]

You are completely right there just isn't a consensus on products like acetone and similarly folks are split on whether to use saddle soap or not.

Personally I don't use or advocate the use of saddle soap by non-professionals. If you're looking to remove wax build up Renovateur can help and often suffice. If it's a mirror shine, warming the area gently with a hairdryer and applying renovateur or even a neutral wax polish will help to dissolve the wax build up quickly. The neutral wax effectively acts as a solvent.

Rubbing alcohol as you've found can be deleterious to shoes but I have used it with some success. I would suggest trying very little on an inconspicuous area of the shoe before & if all you are aiming for is to remove wax build up you shouldn't be applying any pressure - just a quick pass or two with a soft cloth is more than sufficient. Otherwise any pressure which constitutes more than a wipe will be taking off more than you'd want.

We're all learning from each other & our own experiences good 'n bad.

 

[mrjames]

Originally Posted by nomad4

Could you tell me how they look cheap?
the seams along the front make it look cheap- it's a lot easier to make a composite shoe than it is to make a whole cut. also, in your next shoes- use shoe trees!

Originally Posted by nomad4

In the future, so I don't screw any more shoes up (I've already ruined a pair of Allen Edmonds Sohos by applying Sof Sole mink oil to them tsk tsk tsk), what should I do to strip the wax? This time, I used alcohol and it ruined my shoes, so naturally I'm rather frightened to use it again lol. I keep hearing conflicting advice in regards to acetone and alcohol that's been cut, etc....it would seem that the safest option is to take no shortcuts and use some saddle soap, yes?
In the future take things to a cobbler... i've heard that vodka is a safer alternative to rubbing alcohol. out of interest, why does one need to 'remove the wax'?

 

[Northampton Novice]

out of interest, why does one need to 'remove the wax'?[/quote]

Wax build up can cause leather to dry out.