Shoe Recommendation: AC, G&G, Stefano Bemer, St. Crispin's, or Meccariello?

[dieworkwear]

Most high end makers use crust. EG for example. The crust may come from different tanneries with different finishing though, and it's not all the same.

Wait, are you sure? I have a bunch of EG shoes and I'm pretty sure they're not crust.

I've ruined crust before with Saphir Renovateur because it strips the color right off. Only happened with StC shoes, which I know are crust. I've used Renovateur on EGs, however, and with no ill effect.

 

[Stefan88]

Wait, are you sure? I have a bunch of EG shoes and I'm pretty sure they're not crust.

I've ruined crust before with Saphir Renovateur because it strips the color right off. Only happened with StC shoes, which I know are crust. I've used Renovateur on EGs, however, and with no ill effect.

Hmmm... I take that back. I believe Hilary has told me they use crust leathers, but now I can't be 100% sure.
Thinking more about it, the leathers I saw may have been aniline but not dyed through. Definitely white tint to it, and a leather used for blue shoes did have a whitish blue base.

In their swatch books, they definitely have an own book for aniline dyed leather which are offered.

 

[Deeky]

I've always thought EG uses aniline or something else. In the pictures, EG has a really nice and deep colour, as opposed to StC's which tends to look lighter or more antiquated. I'm not sure what G&G does, because new G&G shoes tend to look like EGs but fade really quickly . That's what making me hesitate on G&Gs/StC's - I prefer mine to have a deeper and more intense colour. I'm quite sure these 2 can offer aniline as well, but the Bemers really speak to me at the moment.

On a related note, has anyone heard of Franceschetti shoes? Information on them is really sparse, but these look amazing: https://franceschetti.it/en/negozio/doppia-fibbia-sirmione-brown-monk-strap/

 

[dieworkwear]

On a related note, has anyone heard of Franceschetti shoes? Information on them is really sparse, but these look amazing: https://franceschetti.it/en/negozio/doppia-fibbia-sirmione-brown-monk-strap/

These are not good.

 

[woofmang]

I don't have any experience with the first 4 brands in the post title, but I do have a pair of Meccariellos that are amazing. These seem like they tick most of your boxes, and would run about $750 US shipped including lasted trees:

Signifer 2 in Boxcalf and Suede

Handwelted Signifer 2 Double Monkstrap Balmoral in Dark Chestnut Boxcalf and Suede. Made on the Argentum Chisel 2 Last with Oak Bark Tanned Soles. Pre-Order Item, shipping in 12-18 weeks

www.meccarielloshoes.it

 

[dieworkwear]

If you really want a buckled shoe, I would get a single monk and not the kind with a swept back buckle strap unless you only plan to wear this with suits. If you plan to wear this also with sport coats, something like Edward Green Mercer will be more useful. Also, avoid anything that could be described as "rakish." Something conservative without details such as fiddle back waists, unusual colors, museum calfskin, handpainted faux-patinas, red undertones, two-color uppers, and very sharp lasts.

 

[Stefan88]

Fiddleback is a nice detail that only you will notice.
Ealing from EG is also a nice one.

 

[MooToo]

Edward Green makes an excellent air conditioning unit. As long as you don’t buy one that’s too rakish.

 

[TN001]

I think you've received superb advice here. I was going to chime in and recommend G&G or EG over St. Crispins because on my size 11.5 (US) feet, their models look a bit overly precious, sleek, and fussy, but I think it's a very different calculus on someone with a smaller foot. That being said, I echo the advice to get something classic. My first "expensive" RTW shoe was an EG Oundle (about as classic of a monk strap as you can get), and I regretted that choice until my better shoe wardrobe was built up much more.

 

[jonathanS]

Just chiming in against the monk straps. A few years ago I wanted a pair of double monk straps, but never pulled the trigger. I can't tell you how many times women have remarked to me about how I never wear "those silly pilgrim looking shoes" & every time I smile, nod, and am vindicated for not pulling the trigger on an expensive pair of monk straps. Go with loafers if you want something casual.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I don't have any experience with the first 4 brands in the post title, but I do have a pair of Meccariellos that are amazing. These seem like they tick most of your boxes, and would run about $750 US shipped including lasted trees:

Signifer 2 in Boxcalf and Suede

Handwelted Signifer 2 Double Monkstrap Balmoral in Dark Chestnut Boxcalf and Suede. Made on the Argentum Chisel 2 Last with Oak Bark Tanned Soles. Pre-Order Item, shipping in 12-18 weeks

www.meccarielloshoes.it

If you really want a buckled shoe, I would get a single monk and not the kind with a swept back buckle strap unless you only plan to wear this with suits. If you plan to wear this also with sport coats, something like Edward Green Mercer will be more useful. Also, avoid anything that could be described as "rakish." Something conservative without details such as fiddle back waists, unusual colors, museum calfskin, handpainted faux-patinas, red undertones, two-color uppers, and very sharp lasts.

I own two these brands (Bemer, & St.C.), not G&G because they just never fit right. You did not include (and I must agree with @woofmang) Meccariello. He sounds like he is what you are looking for.

Since I do not own strapped shoes, I must agree with @dieworkwear. I would invest in something else. A derby would work with your higher instep. I suffer from the same issue. If you are dead set on a strapped shoe..do a single. I've seen the single worn with suits around the offices (here in NYC) and informally with flannels, tweeds and more casual wear. Moreover, it is a bit easier to hide that single monk as opposed to that double hardwared dbl monk.

Additionally, while I do not have first hand knowledge and for something that looks promising, how about a single strap with with the fine folks over at Skomaker Dagestad and their collab with Santari. Atsushi Tate I hear nothing but great things about. The make up (materials used in construction, leathers, MTO options), and the customer service...make it a very attractive proposition. Throw in the fact you receive a genuine handmade Japanese shoe at sub $1500. I am sure @Stefan88 can provide better details than I ever could.

Oh and in regards to EG having crust leather, as far as I remember from my visit out in Northhampton (circa 2013), EG did not use crust leather. St.C does use crust, but they also have aniline available. Nothing against crust leather, but it requires a bit more upkeep, though it patinas beautifully.

 

[Leaves]

Wait, are you sure? I have a bunch of EG shoes and I'm pretty sure they're not crust.

I've ruined crust before with Saphir Renovateur because it strips the color right off. Only happened with StC shoes, which I know are crust. I've used Renovateur on EGs, however, and with no ill effect.

Hmmm... I take that back. I believe Hilary has told me they use crust leathers, but now I can't be 100% sure.
Thinking more about it, the leathers I saw may have been aniline but not dyed through. Definitely white tint to it, and a leather used for blue shoes did have a whitish blue base.

In their swatch books, they definitely have an own book for aniline dyed leather which are offered.

It's a matter of terminology. Gaziano & Girling, Edward Green and other premium English makers use what they call a "crust" that they finish and burnish. The crust used is usually in the same hue as the finished product. In the process the product receives a lot more depth and becomes darker than the original crust.

StC use a completely natural (more or less off white in color) crust that they dye and finish completely from scratch. This can indeed become ruined if you use the wrong products (like Saphir Reno). I recommend using BICK4 on that type of shoe.

Unfinished Enzo Bonafé crust:


How no. 3 looks when finished:

Undyed "natural" crust, as used by StC and many patina artists (picture does not show StC shoes).