Shoe questions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mack, Jan 11, 2004.

  1. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    Triple leather sole, Norwegian(?) welt...what you see as thick and clunky, I see as rugged and sturdy... [​IMG]. But at USD1350 retail, I won't be trying it on any time soon. Do you have a reference number for the Michel Perry split toe? Is it the 637? Thanks.
     


  2. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Originally posted by TimelessrRider:
    Yes, the Perry split toe is Ref: 637. It really is a nice shoe, with a high (and almost bevelled) waist (am I correct with the terminology A.Harris?). Most of his designs to my eye are really quite modern yet maintaining a classic look. As for the Hunt, it is indeed rugged and sturdy, but weigh half a tonne.. [​IMG] The demi chasse is enough for me. It sounds pretty expensive in the U.S though, here it costs about Euro 850 (tax included).
     


  3. jrh

    jrh Well-Known Member

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    Looks can de deceiving.  I own a Hunt Derby and a demi.  The Hunt Derby is so much more comfortable and supportive.  Does anyone else have an opinon based on actual experience?

    I guess I did good at $950.00 last year.
     


  4. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A question for Rider (or anyone else who can help):

    I have a pair of Weston shoes that I am going to sell. Problem is that when I bought them (sight unseen) I didn't know that they were from (what I assume to be) the ladies line - "J.M. Weston feminin."

    They are the signature loafer in black crocodile - reference # 180. There is absolutely no difference between this loafer and the men's model besides the sizing. So I'm trying to figure out what men's (Weston) size they equate to. They are marked:

    180-82
    7D
    922407-53

    Can you help me on this one? Any response would be greatly appreciated...
     


  5. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You got me there - all this talk of beveled vs fiddle-back waists has got me a bit confused...
     


  6. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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    [QUOTEThey are the signature loafer in black crocodile - reference # 180. There is absolutely no difference between this loafer and the men's model besides the sizing. So I'm trying to figure out what men's (Weston) size they equate to.[/quote] My wife last January purchased a pair of Weston loafers at the NYC store; the ladies' loafers were on sale, but they were out of her size, so they sold her the men's loafers for the ladies sale price. I think her Weston ladies size is a 7D, but it might have been 6 1/2; she was sold a men's size 5C. BTW, what condition are they and how much will you be asking?
     


  7. jrh

    jrh Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps a call to Weston in NY will give you the answer.
     


  8. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They are brand new and perfect. I think I will ask $600 as they are good for the Japanese market. But if a forum member wants them before they hit ebay I could do $500.
     


  9. mack

    mack Active Member

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    Thanks again for all the info.

    By patinated I meant the highly polished finish that combines a variety of colors, especially along the seams; e.g., brown with black overtones.  This appears on some of Mr. Harris' Vass photos as well as others.

    Is this just the lighting or is it applied by hand or machine during the final finishing of these high end shoes?
     


  10. offshore observer

    offshore observer Active Member

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  11. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I enquired about prices for both the Hunt shoe and the Michael Perry demi-chasse. The Hunt shoe currently retails for $1350, while the Perry demi-chasse retails for around $600. I know that the welting and the toe stitching on the Hunt shoe is all done by hand, and $1350 may reasonable given the country of origin and the labor involved, but I hesitate to spend that much on any ready-made shoe. The Perry demi-chasse, on the other hand, looks great, and I ordered a pair. I'll let you know what I think when I get them.
     


  12. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    I take it you mean the Michel Perry split-toe (637), since you mentioned you already have the demi-chasse (598). Nice choice. It looks like a super-refined version of this Mantellassi model: [​IMG] Enjoy.
     


  13. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yup, it's 637.


    Thanks. I hope to.
     


  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Originally posted by jcusey:
    Very nice shoe aren't they.
    I have special ordered Ref. 634, the seven eyelet plain toe by Perry in Weston's new store in Antwerp in December. These were not available in the regular Weston lineup. I got mine in mid brown kidskin (not the dark brown that was on the website).

    Have you seen his new wholecuts? Not too bad but I like the Santoni's better.
     


  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Am I going mad? There was a posting by "offshore observer" about the waist-treatment by Edward Green and other manufacturers. So I made up a reply. Now that I'm going to post it, it looks that offshore has pulled the original thread. In the words of Madame de Pompadour: "Apres nous le deluge", I'm still going to post it, even if it is into a vacuum: I believe a said something on those lines that Edward Green produces "the nearest thing to a fiddle back waist". Edward Green has gone through a variety of upheavals and has changed production facilities. I am only talking about EG shoes in their most recent incarnation, what the Japanese website calls "New Green", i.e. after the split with John Lobb/Hermes. These models are easily recognised as (the single sole models) have the waist painted black, with the sole in natural tan leather. The old models have an all tan sole. There is a considerable difference in the shaping of the waist. I am just comparing two models, same size, fitting, last; one made for Paul Stuart in the mid 90s, the other one bought at Burlington Arcade in 2002. I haven't got a camera, so I cannot post pictures. Compare a genuine, handmade fiddleback waist with the EG version: http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/welt-sh....ge1.htm The top pair is EG factory made and in the current specifications. (Although the sole is all black, maybe at the customer's request.) The other pair is Cleverley, all hand made. Of course, the Cleverley waist is much nicer, which had to be expected. I agree with old Tricker shoes. I have a pair of (second hand) crocodile slip-ons, which were made by Tricker's, I would guess, in the 1960s. They are really beautifully made. To see really nice factory-made shoes visit the C&J shop at London's Royal Exchange. They display a few samples, made before WW1 or early 1920s. Now, those are nice shoes. No modern RTW shoe comes close to them in the quality of craftsmanship. Offshore observer, what about re-instating your post?
     


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