Shoe Porn: Norvegese, Bentivegna, Goyser, BIG Stitch & BIG Welts ONLY!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by isshinryu101, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Look friends. I understand that, as far as personal taste and personal style is concerned, many of the shoes on this thread (and MANY more to come, I hope) are Over The Top. If they don't appeal to you aesthetically, that's OK. I'm CERTAIN they are not intended to become popular to the masses, or expected to become a "fashion trend" by the makers themselves.

    What I do ask, however, is that if you don't like the "style" of them, that you try to appreciate the workmanship that goes into them, and the rugged durability of the construction. That's what I like about these "crazy" construction methods.

    Remember, many shoemakers themselves (including Santoni, Lattanzi, Mantallassi, and others) consider their Norvegese (and similar) models to be their finest work.

    It' like looking at your best friend's hot wife. You can appreciate the beauty without having to want to screw her yourself.
     


  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What I do ask, however, is that if you don't like the "style" of them, that you try to appreciate the workmanship that goes into them........, .

    What good is workmanship if it serves a questionable aesthetic?

    I might be able to admire the work that has gone into one of those Faberge eggs, but the result of all that skill is a hideous piece of ‘kitsch’. Yes, I probably would like to have one of those eggs for it’s financial value, but I certainly would hide in in the cupboard or safe and wouldn’t want to give it any houseroom.

    [​IMG]

    Those shoes were all the rage in the mid - late 90s, with Stefano Branchini producing footwear that would out-shine a Christmas tree in garishness. Times have changed, we live in a different (economic) climate today. Conspicuous consumption is not the done thing any longer.

    Remember, many shoemakers themselves (including Santoni, Lattanzi, Mantallassi, and others) consider their Norvegese (and similar) models to be their finest work

    Not anymore, check Lattanzi’s web-site: out of twenty-four ‘Classic’ men’s shoes, only five employ ‘Norvegese’ or ‘Bentivegna’ construction.

    http://www.silvanolattanzi.com/usa_uk/home.html
     


  3. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  4. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    Well, those croc shoes are objectively ugly, and I'd lovingly wear the hell out of them.
     


  5. peach

    peach Active Member

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    I loved them all. Thank you for sharing .
     


  6. pebblegrain

    pebblegrain Senior member

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    I don't like the tendency of Lidforts and Bettanins to go balls out square-toe but other than that, I would wear anything in this thread.
     


  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    I love the Italian government. They are masters of regulation when it comes to their country's money-making industries. They have rules for exactly what an item must contain & how it must be made in order to call it something. From cognac to merlot wine, the place of origin of each ingredient, as well as the % of each ingredient used must be just so, to ensure uniformity. That way a customer always knows exactly what to expect.

    For the term, "norvegese", that is not the case. Basically, you can call any kind of shoe construction "norvegese" and still get away with it. Traditionally (and under most definitions), norvegese construction requires the upper to be turned outward (rather than the the usual inward) & sewn directly into the top-sole. Some makers use a welt between the upper & the topsole. Personally, I have no problem with this, but some will say it's not really norvegese if a welt is used.

    When it comes to norvegese, the Japanese (who LOVE norvegese & big stitching/ welts) have tried to label the different types of norvegese, but their terminology is not universally accepted.

    [​IMG]

    In this diagram, they differentiate between "norwegian" where the side stitch goes directly into the insole & "norvegese" where the side stitch does not. Most don't see a distinction in the 2, calling them both "norvegese".

    Their "norwegian welted" still uses the side stitch directly into the insole, but just adds a welt to the outside. Most would say this is NOT true "norvegese" because the upper is not turned outward and stitched into the top-sole.

    Here are 2 more examples of different makers' definition of "norvegese":

    Bettanin & Venturi:
    [​IMG]


    Piergiacomi:
    [​IMG]

    I've got a diagram for Lattanzi somewhere, but can't find it right now. The point is, the upper is always turned outward and stitched into the topsole.

    On your (and my) Testoni's (although I like your 2-tones better), the upper is NOT turned outward and sewn into the upper. I know the model is different, but the construction is the same.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I'm pretty sure there is a welt inside the upper, and the side stitch goes into that, then into the insole. I had tried to pull at my insole to see more clearly, but abandoned the idea, as I still like the shoes and wasn't ready to sacrifice them for the effort

    So... by the Japanese diagram, these Testoni's are "Norwegian welted construction", just the welt is inside, rather than outside the upper (as in the diagram). Most makers would not call this "norvegese".

    BUT, NONE of this really matters!!! The construction is still very nice & durable. They've still got that big stitch, and still make a very nice addition to this thread!


    very nice
     


  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    I don't like the tendency of Lidforts and Bettanins to go balls out square-toe but other than that, I would wear anything in this thread.

    portnoy - who made the suede double monks?![​IMG]
     


  9. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Some ugly shoes in this thread, there is.
    Nearly everything on this thread makes this world an uglier place. Case in point: [​IMG]
     


  10. meister

    meister Senior member

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    I don't like the tendency of Lidforts and Bettanins to go balls out square-toe but other than that, I would wear anything in this thread.

    +1 Those 90s fronts are a bit disappointing and Bengal Stripe has suggested they are a product of their manufacture during the 90s - predominately. But the sleeker models are la meurte.
     


  11. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Not anymore, check Lattanzi's web-site: out of twenty-four "˜Classic' men's shoes, only five employ "˜Norvegese' or "˜Bentivegna' construction.
    http://www.silvanolattanzi.com/usa_uk/home.html



    I won't try to convince you that your opinion is wrong. These shoes are not for you. However, I will point out that that Lattanzi website's "Special Order" section features 18 photos. Of the 18, 9 feature norv, bentivegna, or some kind of thick welt or xtra wide sole. I will never tell you that these "special construction/ thick welt/ wide sole" shoes are "classic", but obviously Lattanzi thinks they're what's gonna bring in the big bucks (as they cost 3+ times more than the "classics") per pair, and they show off his creativity as a designer.
     


  12. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    ]

    Bettanin & Venturi:
    [​IMG]


    Piergiacomi:
    [​IMG]

    I've got a diagram for Lattanzi somewhere, but can't find it right now. The point is, the upper is always turned outward and stitched into the topsole.

    On your (and my) Testoni's (although I like your 2-tones better), the upper is NOT turned outward and sewn into the upper. I know the model is different, but the construction is the same.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I'm pretty sure there is a welt inside the upper, and the side stitch goes into that, then into the insole. I!


    I suspect that there is no welt and that the stitch goes through the out turned upper into the insole and then through midsole. The stitch is diagonal and could easily cross all three layers. The midsole is the visible top layer of the sole that you say is the welt. As you mention though the only way to be sure is to disassemble.
     


  13. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Bally Scribe Cap-Toes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  14. Srynerson

    Srynerson Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    ImageShack fail. [​IMG]
     


  15. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    I love these Cretaceous shoes and feel sorry for those who feel that they don't have the nuts to wear them.
     


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