Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by shoefan, Mar 23, 2004.
And the model is called, I believe Brampton. On the 606 last also.
Â This is the wonderful Cardiff model.
My last post for the day...
Another view of the black EG Ladbroke *drool*
EEE Gads You guys certainly know how to make a shoeguy drool. Thanks for posting the pictures.
I had spotted, that your shoes employed a raised seam and not the "blanket stitch" EG shoes usually uses for hand stitching. I don't want to use the term "skin-stitching", as Rider has stated in this forum that "skin-stitching" only applies to decorative stitching which is not structural (like in the wholecut Venetian loafer, which thracozaag has posted here a bit later). Is "skin stitching" the absolute correct word for this "blanket stitch" or have you picked up the term, like I did, from Japanese sites? Maybe it's a difference in language on either side of the big pond. After all, for Edward Green they are not "Norwegian" (American) or "Chasse" (French) but "Apron-fronts". (Was there ever a name more stupid than apron-front?)
Another difference, which I had missed earlier, is your model, unlike "Dover", has no counter (heel cap), which, of course, makes it an incredibly slick and neat design and really a million miles away from the "Norwegian" as country and hunting shoe.
So much for those who believe that every apron-fronted shoe must be reserved solely for tweeds, corduroys and the country.
Bruno Magli handmade (style called C-5):
I'm not sure where I picked up the term; certainly, AE refers to some of their Norwegian front shoes as skin-stitched, consistent with Rider's definition. I'm pretty certain I've heard/read Green and/or C&J referring to their sewing as skin-stitching, but I'm not 100% sure as I think back....
I'm going to keep calling it skin-stitching, as it seems to accurately describe what's being done; the stitch is going inside the skin, which IMO is what makes it unique.
Whatever one calls it, it is clearly a difficult task, given that the sewing is "blind" and the stitch must stay inside the depth of the leather of the apron. As I've noted elsewhere, the bespoke closer I spent time with said the hates doing it because it is so difficult; when Green sends their people out to demonstrate their hand-sewing, it is this sewing that they perform, complete with boar's hair bristles.
Nice shoes everyone. I think it's time for an ankle boot or two. Alden Chukka boot - Shell Cordovan Weston 705 - wholecut chelsea boot
Well, I might as well get in on the party.
Are those Vass? They're phenomenal..
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