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Shoe horse (whore?)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by norcaltransplant, Nov 21, 2003.

  1. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    No need to be sorry about that, I also have the same problem, because the script is written in such a way that it looks like Audrey..

    The important thing is that the name is written following the curvature of the heel, and not straight across. Another differentiation between the upper echelons of Santoni is the "sock" (part of the insole where the brand is written on). Sometimes it is in orange leather with a smooth edge, this is usually found in the mid to lower tier of their classics (here in Europe anyway), while the others are in natural colour leather with sawtooth edges.
     
  2. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    I am thinking about getting one, as sales season is approaching. How much are they in Europe? In New York, the top end of Santoni are 4-digits, while the others at around $4-- to $5--. Those I was looking at are the mid-level range. Should have tried them on that day.
     
  3. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    Oh my.... seeing little arguments like this on this board suddenly reminds me of someone .......... (dare I say Josh?) -- not that I am suspecting they are the same person, but just the way both of them sounded .......

    Call me strange, but I kinda miss Josh ....
     
  4. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I just checked the santonishoesusa.com website and the eqivalent of the classic collection costs about Euro 200 to 300, while the top end "handmade collection" ranges from Euro 400 to 800.

    The sales have started up here, and I have seen some Santoni handmades for Euro 360, while some Mantellassis cost Euro 350.
     
  5. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I miss Josh as well. He actually contributed to another forum and it has never been the same since.

    Josh always reminded me of the character of "Mrs Merton" on British television. It is a young woman, dressed up as a little, somewhat dotty and naive old lady who interviews people and asks them embarrassing questions (apparently not understanding the double meaning).

    Most celebrated example (I now give an American version, as the English names are likely to be unknown):

    "Now tell me, Anna Nicole Smith, what was the first thing that made you fall in love with the millionaire J. Howard Marshall II?"
     
  6. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Welcome back naturlaut.
    I agree with this for the most part but there are a few exceptions. Some of the midrange Goodyear-welted shoes have "Santoni" printed, not written, on them and are still very nice shoes. In fact I'm wearing a pair right now. These midrange shoes run $400-$600 at Nordstrom. They are not a good deal at that price but they are worth buying at a substantial discount (I've bought three pairs for $100-$130 each.) They are MUCH nicer than the lower-priced Santoni shoes. A question - are you saying that some shoes have "Andrea Santoni" written by hand in a curve and others have it written by hand straight across?? I'm asking because I can only recall seeing it written in a curve. I've got to give Santoni high marks for styling. They come out with truly stunning shoes season after season and aren't afraid to experiment. It seems that they make different styles for different markets as well. Check out these styles on Souliers.net: Santoni shoes for the French market Those antiqued crocodile monk-straps are incredible. And some more great looks from their website: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] At Nordstrom, the top-end Santoni shoes run $700-$1200. It seems that it would be cheaper to buy them elsewhere.
     
  7. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Yes, one of my Santoni handmades has it written by hand straight across, it is a "bentivenga" construction mahogany plain wholecut. One of my more expensive Santonis, if I remember correctly, it cost me about Euro 800.
     
  8. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Have any of you tried to wear croco/gator shoes? I've always been leery of them, the image in my head is of a pimp/drug dealer ... ie people who have no idea how to dress. Although I have seen rather elegant rendition of shoes made of those skins, I'm pretty scared.. The only time I could imagine myself wearing it is with casual pants, but then where to?
     
  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those wholecuts are stunning. I recently tried to locate a pair. I was told that they were sold out, which is probably just as well: the retail on them is over $1100.
     
  10. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can anyone explain the difference between Bentivegna construction and Goodyear construction? The Santoni website has a brief explanation of each, but it's not particularly illuminating.
     
  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've got a pair of those in black - they are incredible. I've been looking for a pair in tan or brown for two years, ever since I first saw them in Nordstroms. I've had no success so far. Absolutely amazing shoes. I think they are Bentivegna but I'm not sure - I'm in need of enlightenment on the subject too. If I read my Lattanzi brochure correctly, they claim to have been the first to use the Bentivegna process.



    I haven't found a good deal on a pair I like yet so no. But there are a few styles I'd love to have - John Lobb's incomparable Perrier, those Santoni's, and a J.M. Weston loafer or demi-chasse shoe come to mind. I'd say they are good for luxe casual or even with a suit if you are really feeling dapper one day :)
     
  12. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    The ones I have are in mahogany and the "throat" (where the laces end at the bottom, I don't know what it is called) is different. These also seem to have a border around the laces. They cost me about Euro 800 two years ago.

    Have you seen the croco derby on the Weston website? Check those out. Enter the English website, and click on the "collections", then "new collection". If you do, what do you think of the 5 eyelet derby and the plain toe oxford? I am going to Antwerp next weekend to possibly order a pair, but a special order in a lighter brown.
     
  13. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is there two, for lack of a better word, bar-tacks just below the laces? And a double-row of stitching around them that extends up and inside the eyelets, all the way around the back of the shoe? And is the one-piece upper wrapped around so that the seam is not at the center-back but on the inside of the shoe, about mid-heel? That's how mine look - a bit different from the picture now that I think of it. Maybe Santoni has done many several variations on this shoe.  


    I took a look. I think they could be nice but it will greatly depend on what size you wear. I checked out some of the new-style shoes at Wilkes Bashford. In my size (12-13) they looked ridiculous to me - way too long. But if you have smaller foot they might look nice. Wilkes carries the aforementioned loafer and demi-chasse shoes in alligator (or crocodile, I can't tell the difference) and I was drooling over them.
     
  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Santoni usually makes a wholecut each season, with variations. Mine is two years old.

    I wear a 9, and I hope it turns out okay, or else my wife will make fun of me "Ronald McDonald".. I don't know what you meant by the demi-chasse in croco though, In the new collection of Micheal Perry, the croco is in a 5 eyelet derby. I was considering the 7 eyelet plain toe or the 5 eyelet derby in a mid brown colour, maybe boxcalf or kidskin.
     
  15. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry to confuse - I was just reminiscing about a shoes I saw in Wilkes. It is the famous, traditional demi-chasse (split toe) that Wilkes ordered in crocodile. It has nothing to do with the new line.
     
  16. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Yes, I have the Demi-chasse in tobacco suede and in medium brown kidskin (special order). Very nice shoes.

    Strangely enough, I was first introduced to that style back in my undergrad days - by Paraboot. I bought a brown pair from Saks in SF (when they still shared the same building with the women's dept.) and a black pair from Bashfords.. These Paraboots are still with me and are full of life. Great starter shoes, although not too dressy.

    By the way, is Ali Issa still the head of the men's footwear dept. in Sak's SF?
     
  17. MPS

    MPS Senior member

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    Was this before or after you developed an interest in bacteriophages?
     
  18. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Incomparable Perrier is right. It's wonderful in just about any leather, it's superlative in tobacco suede, and it's jaw-droppingly gorgeous in dark brown crocodile (it's better in person than in the Lobb catalogue). The only way that it could be better is if it were in peanut brittle crocodile.
     
  19. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    [​IMG] Actually after.., those little buggers enabled me afford many things.. I don't do much work with bacteriophages any longer, doing cancer research in one institute, and differentiation signalling in another.
     
  20. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    I worked very well for me, I order the seven eyelet plain toe in med. brown boxcalf this Saturday.
    I took your advice on this......... I saw the Weston loafer in black croco and it looked quite dashing yet elegant, my wife liked it too and said that it would not be too difficult to wear. So I also ordered the "Reference" moccassin in dark brown croco. My wife say's it is my Christmas present. [​IMG] I really like the looks and hope that I can use it frequently.
     

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