Shoe Fit: How Close the "V"?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sartorially Challenged, Sep 27, 2006.

  1. Sartorially Challenged

    Sartorially Challenged Senior member

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    When fitting shoes, how close should the "V" that the uppers form be?

    Is there a generally agreed rule for that?
     
  2. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    EG in London told me about a quarter to half inch at the top of the V.
     
  3. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Originally Posted by kolecho
    EG in London told me about a quarter to half inch at the top of the V.

    i was told the sqame thing in tassels in HK too so i wouls use this as a guideline too![​IMG]
     
  4. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    What if they close and there's no gap, but the shoe fits well?
     
  5. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    What if they close and there's no gap, but the shoe fits well?

    The leather will give and stretch over time, so for new shoes, there should be a bit of spacing. However, I wouldn't worry about it too much.
     
  6. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What if they close and there's no gap, but the shoe fits well?

    you could say that is personal choice, i do have this with a pair of shoes and with no real problem but they have become more loose over he months and there is no way i can tighten them and i refuse to put in a instep, perhapsd try a more narrower shoe! or 1/2 size smaller
     
  7. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    Flusser says a quarter inch. In my experience, if they close completely, the shoes are too wide.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Part of this is an aesthetic preference. In general, the English prefer that 1/4" spacing, at least in RTW. All of my bespoke English shoes line up parallel. I prefer no gap, myself.
     
  9. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like tight laces, and on the shoes that line up perfectly in parallel, I don't get all the support I would like. I do think that one should have nearly parallel quarters, but there should be some room to cinch them up.
     
  10. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    I guess if we are considering a "V," we are discussing balmorals. However, I believe the consensus is that the gap should be wider on bluchers, with which the gap may not describe a "V." I'm with Manton on balmorals; I think that having the facings parallel with virtually no gap looks best. On bluchers, a gap of maybe 1/4" to 3/8" looks best to me.
     
  11. josepidal

    josepidal Senior member

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    Flusser says a quarter inch. In my experience, if they close completely, the shoes are too wide.
    My shoes are RTW, but I think I simply have wide feet so it's all good.
     
  12. Sartorially Challenged

    Sartorially Challenged Senior member

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    Yes, balmorals.

    So, an inch gap is a sign that the shoes are too narrow, right? I guess I should return the ones I just purchased.

    Thanks for all the advice.
     
  13. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    Yes, balmorals.

    So, an inch gap is a sign that the shoes are too narrow, right? I guess I should return the ones I just purchased.

    Thanks for all the advice.


    Not necessarily. "Narrow" refers to the measurement in the toe box area, more or less. An inch gap at the throat could mean you have a high instep. I have plenty of shoes that fit me well but have fairly wide gaps at the throat because of my high inteps.
     
  14. Sartorially Challenged

    Sartorially Challenged Senior member

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    Ah.

    The toe box area actually fits really well. But I do have a fairly high instep.

    I thought the new shoes looked good and fit well... except that the "V" is rather wide at about an inch or so. So perhaps I should keep them.

    I am actually 9 1/2C, but I usually buy 9D. Usually that fits well in length, but a bit wide. I recently tried 9 1/2B, and found to my surprise that it fits much better in both length and width (not too snug in length, but just snug in width for that form fitting feel). The only problem is this gap at the V.
     
  15. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    the 'rule' i guess is to have a quarter inch gap at top, but i dont concern over that as long as the shoe fits and is comfortable long term.

    saying that if there is no gap that the shoe is too wide, is too general of a statement because it really depends on the make and design of the shoe.

    a shoemaker who believes in a quarter inch gap may construct the leathers around my 10D shoe to have a quarter inch gap. if i put on a 10.5 D shoe of his , it may just well close up at the top.

    but another shoe maker who does not concern over that, may make my 10 D shoe to have it close all the way at the top, and if i wear his 9.5 D maybe it may be too small and there will be a quarter inch on top.

    so you cant say anything about what is correct in general, just case by case according to the shoemaker and how they constructed it.

    actual gauge is not the superficial look on top, but the way it fits around the ball,instep, and arch of foot.

    you can have a quarter inch spread , but the fit around your feet mayb e too tight.
     

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