Shoe Dissection: Allen Edmonds, John Lobb, Bostonian and More!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Patek14, Aug 29, 2014.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    For shape and to reinforce the stitchings.

    C&J uses gemming as well.
     


  3. Patek14

    Patek14 Senior member

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    First, I would most like to see a wealthy SFer sacrifice a pair of classic collection level Meermin shoes. I really want to see what $210 ish US gets you from them. Any volunteers have one and can send to that poster? Maybe a pair that you fell in and damaged the upper badly?

    Second - why do you say vawsh?
     


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    You wanted to see Vwash, so I got you Vwash. Credit to Corium on the now defunct newsaboutshoes.de forum. The Germans are much more inquisitive about shoes than the newly joined SF fashionista.

    An old pair of Vwash, circa 1994, dismantled 2008, with worn through insole, and one machine stitched resole that punched extra wholes on the welt. Vwash is extremely well built for the price.

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  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Since you wanted to see Crockett & Jones, here's a pair of Crockett & Jones dismantled. The French are also more curious about shoes than the brand whores on SF.

    Credit to Achille on the now defunct French depiedencap forum.

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  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    And lets not forgot about Nutcracker's Scanlations. Yup, the Japanese also have inquisitive minds.

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  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Now anyone wants to see a pair of Saint Crispins cut up?
     


  9. Patek14

    Patek14 Senior member

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    seeing that BRAND NEW pair of crockett and jones makes me cry. I am glad to see one chopped but why new!!!

    Still looking to see what is under the hood of a $210 meermin goodyear welted...
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    And the stitches are protected.

    (Click for close-up)

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    Last edited: Sep 4, 2014


  11. flyart

    flyart New Member

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    Great posts!

    I'm sure most here know of this book, but for those who don't it is one of the BEST books on the art/craft of handmade shoes. It takes the reader through the entire process from building the last to choosing the leather to building the welt, etc.

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    http://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Shoes-Men-Lazlo-Vass/dp/3833160454
     


  12. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    At $210 it's done at less than $50 OEM quality. So best to assume around AE but better than J&M or other very low budget shoes Lordpoint has dissected.qaa ~
     


  14. Patek14

    Patek14 Senior member

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    given the great dissections on a range of mass produced shoes here from J&M up to crockett, I really want to see the "guts" of that $210 shoe. if its the same as AE, then wow that is a deal of a lifetime
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    So...neither here nor there, I just got done watching an interesting video on Goodyear Flex construction,Blake Rapid Flex and Bologna Construction. If I'm not mistaken all of these forego a true insole and substitute a forepart liner. There is something like a half insole of either leather or some sort of synthetic (fiberboard) in the heel and waist area but the front of the shoe inside is fundamentally constructed around a glorified sock liner.

    After looking at the deconstructed 20 year old Vass and the hole in the insole--an insole that is probably 10 times thicker than the forepart of the methods names above--and considering how much wear the thin "sock" forepart is realistically expected to stand up to--I am feeling much more cynical about the shoe manufacturing Industry than I was before.
     


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