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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    cbfn and ville: Thank you! Agree that G&G leathers are really good all around.
     
  2. meister

    meister Senior member

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    My new Gucci Suedes. Very comfortable last like wearing an EG 202 last.


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    A modest dose of Meermin.

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    What last is that, Mimo?
     
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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  6. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Blake-rapid shoes will have a stitching around the top of the sole edge, just like a welted shoe. The difference is, with a Blake-rapid, the visible portion on the top of the sole edge is a full midsole rather than just a thin welt. On a Blake-rapid the midsole is stitched through the insole the same way the outsole is on a regular Blake shoe. Then, the outsole is stitched to the midsole using a welt-stitching machine. If those soles are stitched on, then it is likely just Blake construction, not Blake-rapid.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. FreedBird

    FreedBird Senior member

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    :worship: Thanks for the clarification! You are always a wealth of knowledge on anything shoes!
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Alfred Sargent Ramsey

    [​IMG]

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    3 people like this.
  9. insomb

    insomb Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Can anyone i.d. these shoes?
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2014
  10. MightnMagic

    MightnMagic Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
    Crockett and jones Lowndes, crease on the toe cap?? Thoughts?
     
  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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  12. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    Not a big deal...
     
  13. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Looks nasty. Either the shoes are too short for your feet or the toe stiffener is shoddy material. Not much you can do at this point, though, but take a different last next time or favour another maker.
     
  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's a Double Monk. Every English shoe manufacturer has that style in their collection.

    The style might be generic, the locality is unique: London's Bedford Square.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. riesenschnauser

    riesenschnauser Member

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    That's where the toe stiffener ends, it's nothing unusual for a small crease to develop there. It's quite common for the toe stiffener to be a bit shorter than the toecap. It's even more pronounced on Vass shoes, who by convention use shorter stiffeners.
     
  16. Chowkin

    Chowkin Senior member

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    This is unacceptable for a pair of shoes of this quality. Why can't C&J use longer toe stiffeners to eliminate this problem?
     
  17. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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  18. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    There's no sense, reason, or percentage in saying that it's "unacceptable."

    In the first place, if one shoe is creasing and the other is not, the chance are that the problem is with the fit, not the length of the toe puff or the construction. If the customer has one foot that is longer, heel to joint, than the other and if he is fitting himself...as is the default with RTW...this is almost guaranteed to be the result. But again, it's on the customer, not the maker.

    In the second place, the foot is going to flex where it's going to flex. Nothing the maker can do will change that. Put a longer stiffener on the shoe and unless it's steel, it too will crease, although it may take longer to get there. But if the stiffener has any substance over the area where the foot wants to crease, the chances are great that the toe puff will "bite" into the foot. Even with a longer toe puff, ideally it would be "skived" (thinned) to blend into the lines of the shoe--so that it does not present a lump when being viewed. But all that means is that, again, the toe puff will be more likely to crease.

    --
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2014
    5 people like this.
  19. Chowkin

    Chowkin Senior member

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    Thanks DWFII.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2014
  20. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    :fonz:

    Re-reading...I guess my opening statement could have seemed a bit brusque...sorry, I didn't mean it that way.
     

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