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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Those Clapps INFURIATED me with the fact they are waaaaay to big for my feet. Took consolation in these (which, ironically, come from a very good friend who was told they are a 10 1/2D but they ended up being a full 2 sizes smaller)...

    1940's NOS Oxford Caps

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Natural Patina on the upper broguing and stitching comes from the color of the brown stitching slowly bleeding (ever so slightly) into the upper leather. 100% natural.
     
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Absolutely incredible. Let me know if you ever find a 10-10.5! Sad to say the cap toes don't quite live up to these, but they are special: something about these vintage shoes always impresses me - the welt stitching/fudging on your cap toes has such a skilled, hand-made feel about it. Love it.
    +1; makes them more manly somehow.
     
  3. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Isshi, you must know what I would say. You just keep on delivering.
     
  4. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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    Perhaps its just the angle but that looks like an EG HAF sole. Great find, Issh.
     
  5. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    My Church's shoes from Yoox have arrived, but it was not the "Lancaster", but apparantly a model called "Auckland". They look almost like the "Lancaster", and the color is "Walnut", but they must be out of production now, so they have probably been in the box for some time. Does anybody know this model, and know when it was produced? It is not corrected grain or polished binder, but there seems to be a weakness on the side of one of the shoes where the leather wrinkles, so I'm not sure I will keep them. The tongue is also partly stitched to the side of the shoe, and I'm not sure I like that, but that could just be removed I guess. Does anyone have experience with this? I will probably post pictures tomorrow.
     
  6. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    If you like them, keep them. If not, they DID send you the wrong shoes, so just return. Not sure what you mean by "a weakness on the side of one of the shoes where the leather wrinkles", but it isn't uncommon to partly stitch the tongue to the upper. This keeps it from sliding down as you insert your foot. Why would you remove it, as I can't imagine a downside to its being there?
     
  7. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Thank you for your reply. They didn't actually write that it was the Lancaster, that was just what I thought myself. The shoe does look exactly like the Lancaster, but the box says it is an Auckland. I have not been able to find a picture of an Auckland at all though. Perhaps they have written it by mistake, but who knows. I am not used to the tongue being stitched, but I gather that it is not a problem. I will post pictures tomorrow if I have the time. I have put trees in them so the wrinkles will get evened out a little I hope.
     
  8. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Church's made a tons of different models before the Prada disgrace.
    It's almost impossible to schedule every model they produced.
    In what last are they made?
     
  9. Wallcloud

    Wallcloud Senior member

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    Just my size...
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    SHS: if they've been in the box a long time (or you think they might), it's worth giving them a couple of days' attention: first day, a good brushing for scaly old polish, and a renovator. Leave it on for 24 hours. Then wipe it off, polish but don't buff and leave another 24, then shine them up again. Allowing all that to work into the leather will give you a great shine, but also allow the leather to be supple and respond more easily to the trees and remove any wrinkles. If you have't got any renovator, just a good coat of polish after a stiff brushing and leave it overnight, will still help.
     
  11. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    trees + regular conditioner for a week or 2 will help shape them.
     
  12. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Thank you all for your comments.


    The last is the 73. I understand that the current last for the Lancaster model is 173. It would be an unexpected bonus if the shoes were pre-prada. It's very strange with the Auckland name on the box and inside the shoe. I have tried to write to Church's, so perhaps they can come up with an answer.




    Thank you both. Yes, I have some renovateur I will apply severel times before wearing, especially because they can have been lying in the box for long. I must say the leather smells, feels and looks OK though. They don't look very dry, but they seem quite stiff and hard.
     
  13. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    The last 73 was replaced (more than 10 years ago) by the last 100 then replaced by the 173.
    Post pictures also of the box.
    Church's used to be "The" English Shoemaker, very sad what's going on now...
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    The last plain black cap toe on the 73 was (confusingly, I suppose) called the "Balmoral" as far as I know. I wonder if it was a different name for a different market? I think that was rather more common back in the early days of/prior to, widespread e-retail. Now having more than one name for a product would be confusing, but it's not that long ago that even individual large buyers would choose their own names sometimes, as well as country or region-specific ones. Will be interested to hear the proper story.
    Of course the idea of Prada taking over Church's grates. And some of their more "fashion-orientated" offerings e.g. those distressed leather horrors, are simply vile. But when people refer to "what's going on now", as you put it, there seems to be a suggestion of a more fundamental change than some tacky sidelines. Any Northampton insiders with a dispassionate account? I have one pair (single monk, Becket, black calf) on the 173, and frankly the leather is lovely, the styling is classic, and I'm very attached to them. What, apart from the very idea of Prada ownership, seems to be the problem?
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  15. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    I have seen that Herring are offering some discontinued models on the 73 last:
    http://www.herringshoes.co.uk/product-list.php?brandid=4#d38
    How does that last compare to the current 173?
    For me it is one of the best looking lasts I have seen, perhaps only second to some (or one) EG last(s).
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  16. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Georg Maternas- Thanks for the help Gerd!

    [​IMG]
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    3 people like this.
  17. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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  18. alexSF

    alexSF Senior member

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    Yes, you are correct but today only a small amount of production is consistent with their past.
    If you take a 90's catalogue and compare the actual offer and approach you couldn't be really sad.
    I don't have anything against Prada itself, only their purpose to make Church's a "fashion oriented" profitable brand year after year.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2012
  19. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    Georg Maternas- Thanks for the help Gerd!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][/
    quote]

    Long time no Fritzl. Where is he? :paranoia:
     
  20. saint

    saint Senior member

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    A few months ago I bought a pair of monks by Church's from Yoox, they were NOS made from Cape Buck on the 73 last. Pretty sure Church's doesn't use Cape Buck anymore. Overall it was a great purchase, I'm sure you'll be very happy with your shoes.
     

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