Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    You guys are too critical, sure they could have been aligned a little better and are not perfect but do you really think anyone in the real world is going to notice
     
  2. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    You notice.

    No.
    could have been aligned much better.
    No excuse for bad clicking,
    it not good for Cleverly to send it out like that.
     
  3. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    Stupid, eagle-eyed DWF. :mad:

    Seriously though, you once again elevated my perception and critical "eye" when looking at shoes. Thanks. :cheers:



    "anal vent" . . . . phewwwsshhhh!!!!! . . . . right?
     
  4. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    I'd say that the lines perpendicular to the dividing line, which you say is off and running towards the lateral side, are very well-matched to the other shoe and since there are a multitude of those lines and they establish more of the grid pattern than the dividing line that this matching up is more important. To me. So, if the maker made the effort to make the line run down the center then I'd be afraid that those other lines would be off and the shoes would be even more asymmetrical than what they are now.

    Also, when you're referring to the matching of the leather in the arch area do you thing they should have made the lines match up, like a window pane pattern on a jacket?
     
  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    You've got a point there although not one that carries much weight when we start talking about high-end shoes....or high-end anything.

    And none of this should make you enjoy them less. That said, I am sorry to have dissed anyone's personal shoes. I try not to do that but sometimes the conversation just takes a turn, so to speak. Unbridled admiration is fine when it is deserved but not so much when it is not.

    Hats off to you for posting the photos and opening them up for criticism.
     
  6. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    Still, it should be extremely easy to create genetically identical crocodiles.

    Who's with me?
     
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You haven't understood the pattern at all.

    [​IMG]

    This is a whole-cut crocodile, there is only one seam on the medial side (inside), There is no seam on the outside and (although I cannot see it) I presume very strongly, there is no heel seam. The whole single piece of leather wraps around like an orange- or apple peel. This is a highly sophisticated pattern, that leather piece is almost two feet long. You can align the pattern on the toe (as here) or you can align it on the vamp seam (then the toe will get out of sync). After all you are dealing with a natural hide from two different animals.For absolute mirror images you will need to emboss the leather. (Even then, there might be differences if the owner's feet are not absolutely identical).

    This is absolute bravura clicking!!!
     
  8. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    You are correct, it is a whole cut wrapped around, there is a seam at the back (but not 2 separate skins joined)
     
  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The vamps were cut close to the same position on their respective skins. Which simply underscores the mismatch of the skins. And that was my original point to you. The skins are not matched very well. I have cut a lot of alligator in my time and I have made the same mistake...years and years ago, but I have done.

    We don't know how the interstitial lines would have been affected if the skins had been matched for size and tile location. And cut properly. Two skins roughly the same width across the belly and with similar centerlines might have resulted in a very good match. But again, this is the maker's responsibility--it's what he, presumably, gets paid for.

    As for the insteps (I frankly don't know what to call that piece) look more closely (especially if you wish to train your eye). The interstitial lines start low in the medial corner on the right shoe and higher up on the other, and run off the top of the instep at one elevation/point on the left shoe and at another on the right. This isn't even a matter of matching skins, this is a matter of the maker not taking the time to cut with care, respect, diligence. A moment in time...only.
     
  10. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Ah yes,
    now me see it.
    That change everything.
    Good eye.
     
  11. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Me not like to critic shoe on forum,
    but it good to show thing to help develop people eye here.
    lt good for learning and develop eye for detail.
    Me give CDMoore shoe bad time,
    but CDMoore still talk to me good,
    he not hate me yet.
    He good player.
     
  12. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Hmmm.....very good point. I also missed that aspect (so much for my eye).

    Still in all, the skins didn't match to begin with. My original remarks were focused on the matching of the skins. We have now slipped into talking about clicking (probably partially my fault, that) and no harm, no foul.

    I grant the point about the difficulty of cutting and lasting this pattern.

    But if, as you say "[COLOR=0000FF]You can align the pattern on the toe (as here) or you can align it on the vamp seam (then the toe will get out of sync). [/COLOR]", then why didn't the maker align the toe, at least? Because regardless the skins weren't matched, the toes are not aligned. The centerline twists off center on the right shoe while it is dead center on the left.

    And as I pointed out in a previous post, alligator and crocodile come from individual, idiosyncratic animals. No two skins will be perfectly identical. All the more reason for the maker to take the time to match skins as well as possible.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Is there a photo of the back seam? If there is a full back seam the shoes are not "whole cut" at all.
     
  14. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    heel pics coming shortly

    As far as I can see its a whole cut
     
  15. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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