Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.
In a effort to get this back on track:
AS Handgrade Milton in museum calf. Click pics for larger.
Everyone needs to chill. You are starting to act like bigbris1.
What makes you think this? First, it's nearly impossible to tell the age of shoes without seeing the soles, heels, size/model info written inside & and footbed.
The Florsheims have the old "custom grade" footbed stamp, as well as a spade sole. Couldn't be newer than 1940's.
The shape of the sole indicates 30's.
The Stan Wests have the original Corrective Heel that was used in the 1940's.
The 40's Specs also have the classic 1940's spade sole.
Foot Joy only used that particular heel up to the 1940's.
Could my dating be off? Sure. All I have to go off is a few other vintage shoe collectors I share notes with, a folder with maybe 500- 1000 vintage shoe ads, and personal experience with over 300 pairs of vintage shoes as well as maybe 2000 pics I have collected.
Whatever. Doesn't really matter, as I have nothing to prove & am just having fun. DEAD SERIOUS about that one!
As a fan of antiquing, I really like the finish on these. Definitely NOT subtle, but very well done, i think. If only they had a storm welt & a triple sole (old habits die hard)...
I don't mind the pics of vintage shoes personally. Certainly better than the fugly norvegese monstrosities that used to populate this thread and drove the regulars away.
Love the antiquing on these!
WTF? Are you now the forum police for this thread? Back on your mat bro'!
Are you serious or just joining the good kicking?
Yes, I'm serious about that. The late 20s and 30s were probably the highpoint of shoemaking (bespoke and industrial) when the prevailing look was slim and long. 3 sizes (1" or 2.5cm) was considered the correct toe allowance. (This is more than any shoe/last maker is likely to consider today.)
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
The fashion for short shoes might have started in the 1940s with rationing and utility prescriptions (I don't know, did they ever have those detailed prescriptions in the States?) and reached it's apogee in the 50s. From the late 50s - early 60s on, the mood changed (among the young) in favour of either sleek Italian shoes or very pointed 'winkle pickers' and a few 'brothel creepers' throw in for variety.
Nobody kicks here anybody. We leave the kicking to the members of FNB.
you need to explore the vintage ads more, as US shoemakers offered literally hundreds of styles every season. The 1937 Mens' winter Weyenberg catalog offered over 120 different variations of wingtips and captoes ALONE. Each model was offered from a short, square toe to a long spade sole.
You generalize too much in terms of the offerings. In the UK, the effect of WWII was the cc41 rationing, etc... an effect of having to rebuild from major damage. In the US, more flamboyant and tougher styles became the vogue... as we were feeling very good about having saved the world. The spades became more pronounced.
I know you are a knowledgeable shoe-man (as i enjoy your posts, which have some very good stuff), but maybe you're not all that well-versed in US vintage shoes? Just as I am always learning something about construction (DWFII, Son of Saphir & others) and modern top brands, maybe you could learn thing or two about US vintage (as you are located in the UK & possibly don't have access to hundreds of pairs of US vintage shoes from the 20's-50's). If that's the case, it's not a criticism and not a bad thing either.
I'm not a fan of the brouging on these, but otherwise I think they are good looking shoes.
just noticed that, and it is definitely out of the ordinary. However, for a wholecut, i think it adds character. Looks like Rollie Fingers' mustache.
+1, the brouging I don't like.
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