Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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  2. cliche

    cliche Senior member

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    Hmm to mutch for me. So the Chukka boots no fine?

    Im thinking a pair of boots more to jeans and casual clothes...
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2012


  3. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    Not to de-rail the thread but Hancock & Moore source their leathers from all over the world so they would probably have German hides. In fact I believe Capri (an expensive class IV hide) is German.
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    are you still in school?


    chelseas go well with that...
     


  5. meister

    meister Senior member

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  6. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    really? too much antiquing, broguing for my taste. ive also never heard of the brand.
     


  7. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Originally Posted by Gdot

    In the world of leather upholstery for instance I know of no one who markets leathers of German origin. Italian leathers lead the herd (pun intended). Why? Not because the tanning or the leather itself is superior from Italy. But because the cows are larger when they are slaughtered, have generally not been kept behind barbed wire fences and thus the result is larger blemish free hides, which is critcal for furniture. What are the similar details in shoe making? I frankly don't know, but would like to.



    So angels break-dancing on the heads of pins is a weekend thing here . . .
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2012


  8. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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  9. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Sorry 'bout that. I'm just trying to learn more about shoe leather sourcing and ways to possibly verify various quality levels. Apparently what I seek is not available (technical specs or quantifiable info, etc.)
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2012


  10. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Ok what really matters here is the last.

    I believe C&J makes a variety of different "chukka" style boots

    Chiltern 224 last
    Chukka on 200
    Chepstow on 325
    Brecon on 341
    Tetbury on 348
    Milbank on 363 - handgrade
    I know how the 341 and 348 fit--what about the others? Anyone?? Bueller??

    The C&J lasts for Chelsea's are the, aformentioned, 341, and the 238 ?? Any others.

    Does anyone have a pic of these lasts like that Alden last pic???

    I like the look of the Chelsea, but I hate CFC so it is difficult for me to think about wearing them. MIght have to call them something else.
     


  11. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Sorry, Gdot. (I am often a jackass) I think that most of the companies use high quality leathers. The real question is how many pairs they cut from a single skin. The hide is of varying quality over the entirity of the surface. If you cut 4 pair from a hide then invariably you are getting differing levels of quality--and lowering your COS. One pair is best but most expensive.
     


  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    he's buying with the eyes...
     


  13. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    No apologies necessary B. I'm a bit strident sometimes - and more than a little wordy.

    I'm sure that the clicking must have a huge difference in how well a shoe wears, particular in terms of stretching and creasing. As if you have ever handled a hide you can easily see that the 'stretch' is very directional. And that the thickness varies as well. The way the leather is used must have a huge impact.
     


  14. meister

    meister Senior member

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    FTFY :)
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    :fonz:
     


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