Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

[jobro]



Few pictures of my shoe collection. You guys will notice my shoes look really similar. I stick to traditional colours. I need to upgrade to other colours this year!
Enjoy!

What are the loafers second from the top (calf/suede)?

 

[Cravate_Noire]

The big difference u don't mention (AFAIK- and could be dated info) is that the benchgrades are made with French calf, and the Handgrades with German.  German calf is recognized as superior.

You probably are correct. Do you know in what ways the German calf is superior?

Lattanzi

His shoes are somewhat more symphatetic than crazy Silvano.

 

[Burton]



is there such a big difference beside the open channeled sole?

Yes. I believe they are more particular about the skins. I also have a fantatical love of the closed channel sole. (I know that it is irrational)

I did not read the other responses prior to putting mine in--agree leathers are better for the handgrade. That said, tough to beat the C&J bench grade shoe. I think the 341 last creates a great workhorse business shoe.

 

[Burton]



Not much love for the Trickers in most of the Top collections i've seen. Not that they're "disliked", but I think they are really at the top of their game in the Country Shoe department... I wanna see more posted here... especially if anyone has any older pairs.

I can't help but register my agreement with my erstwhile foe--and erstwhile friend. I think Trickers get a bad rap here. For those with a standard foot Trickers do not work so well. If you have a wider foot Trickers are a great shoe. I bought a pair, they did not fit well, but they were of high quality.

 

[Burton]



no. i'm by no means an leather expert. i have a guy who consults me, when i feel the need. he told me a few things, though.
what he told me is, that you cannot generalize between italy, germany, france and austria. it depends almost on the tannery.
a little anecdote: a friend of mine, who had some shoes made at JL St. James was directed into the leather chamber by mr. lobb. one of his favorite leathers was from a small producer in austria. he didn't tell my friend the name. unfortunately, i haven't seen this pair yet.

I have spoken with a few tanners and a few shoemakers and what I have learned is the two biggest things that matter with leathers are the diet of the calf and the amount of sun shine they see during their life. Calf from mountaineous regions have softer hides do to the shade available. To me, this validates your Austrian thesis. Nothing beats a drive in those mountain passes in Austria--ok, skiing does.

 

[Gdot]

Same mountain passes cross over into Italy. And they are indeed among the most spectacular places on earth. Teh dolomites, they rulez! As do Montasio and Mangret.

And way up high the animals live in unfenced environments - no barbed wire equals prettier skin as well. Although perhaps the finest hides would come from calves raised for veal in those horrible stalls in which they never see the light of day. But I hope not - would really bust me to find that out.

 

[Northampton Novice]



what he told me is, that you cannot generalize between italy, germany, france and austria. it depends almost on the tannery.

This makes perfect sense to me.

 

[mcarthur]

ravello monk
argyle otc

 

[fritzl]



I also have a fantatical love of the closed channel sole. (I know that it is irrational)

no. the advantage of wood pegged. it's always closed, hehe. no pun intended

I did not read the other responses prior to putting mine in--agree leathers are better for the handgrade. That said, tough to beat the C&J bench grade shoe. I think the 341 last creates a great workhorse business shoe.

you know my love for chisel dizzle. this one, i like. especially in dark suede, where the contours are not so obvious.

 

[fritzl]



I have spoken with a few tanners and a few shoemakers and what I have learned is the two biggest things that matter with leathers are the diet of the calf and the amount of sun shine they see during their life. Calf from mountaineous regions have softer hides do to the shade available. To me, this validates your Austrian thesis. Nothing beats a drive in those mountain passes in Austria--ok, skiing does.

like a good wine.

next time you're here. please let me know.

 

[fritzl]



I can't help but register my agreement with my erstwhile foe--and erstwhile friend. I think Trickers get a bad rap here. For those with a standard foot Trickers do not work so well. If you have a wider foot Trickers are a great shoe. I bought a pair, they did not fit well, but they were of high quality.

certainly. it's the look. they have this clumsy vibe. especially their country range. i agree, it's hard to find a boot in this price range. independent of your destination.

 

[Burton]



like a good wine.
next time you're here. please let me know.

I will certainly do that.

 

[Pengranger]

Cliff Roberts Bespoke shoes - last and shoe trees by Springline

Hi all. I've recently received my Bespoke shoes from Cliff Roberts. I'm over the moon with the quality! Enjoy

 

[Michael Ay329]

Pengranger...that shoe exudes elegance. Way cool

RJMan had Tony Gaziano (while at Edward Green) build a similar green design...but yours adds the faux lacing...which IMHO, completes it

And the antiqued 3 piece shoe trees look awesome

The color of the shoe tree makes me wonder is this a navy leather or black?

 

[Burton]

Late 2011 I sold all my Aldens (six pairs of shell codovan) with the exception of one pair. These boots drove me crazy until I had them modified. I don't understand why people here like the Alden commando sole. It causes the shoe to curl and dirt and grime get it in between the rubber overlay and the leather sole--don't get it. Anyway, Nick at B. Nelson modified these for me and I think I will keep them.