Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    is there such a big difference beside the open channeled sole?
     


  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    me
     


  3. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    the oakdale is nice. you don't have a derby, yet. i can see a budapester or alt wien joining this nice haul.
     


  4. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    wow - Churchill with a twist- will he do socks and trews extensions?
     


  5. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    To me there is not such a big difference between C&J benchgrade and C&J handgrade. Other than the sole stitching you mentioned, the sole material itself, and the level of leather finishing I see very little difference. I'm imagine there are other factors, such as linings, etc. etc. but these are of little consequence to me.

    For my purposes the benchgrade is the better choice. They have a less than stellar polish job on them fresh out of the box and I enjoy polishing/finishing as a hobby so I actually prefer that they are less finished than the handgrades.

    However the cost difference between the two grades is marginal as well, for the guy who needs a durable sole, and doesn't want to bother with improving the finishes I can see why he would want the handgrades.
     


  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  7. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    You probably are correct. Do you know in what ways the German calf is superior?
     


  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  9. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Not much love for the Trickers in most of the Top collections i've seen. Not that they're "disliked", but I think they are really at the top of their game in the Country Shoe department... I wanna see more posted here... especially if anyone has any older pairs.
     


  10. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    I agree the Trickers is NOT an elegant lasted shoe. A bit bulbous for my taste, but the leather is very nice, develops a fantastic patina over time, and their Country Shoes are tanks that will last a lifetime.
     


  11. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Yes.
    Me like Trickers casual double sole full brogue derby shoes very very much.
    They do design for machine gemmed casual brogue very good.
     


  12. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Big difference,
    handgrade better value if shoe look after good.
    Handgrade have much more nice leather.

    why of little consequence?

    it the grain.
    better leather have less flaw and have finer grain.
    it take practise and lot of study to know good leather.
    it hard when man is green.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    no. i'm by no means an leather expert. i have a guy who consults me, when i feel the need. he told me a few things, though.

    what he told me is, that you cannot generalize between italy, germany, france and austria. it depends almost on the tannery.

    a little anecdote: a friend of mine, who had some shoes made at JL St. James was directed into the leather chamber by mr. lobb. one of his favorite leathers was from a small producer in austria. he didn't tell my friend the name. unfortunately, i haven't seen this pair yet.
     


  14. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Big difference,
    handgrade better value if shoe look after good.
    Handgrade have much more nice leather.

    Yes - finish is nicer. I presume, but have not been informed, that the leather itself is superior in some way. (And I don't mean simply more expensive - I mean has functionality that is superior. As I've seen the shoes in real life and understand the visual differences.

    why of little consequence?
    I can't tell the difference when wearing them. A good quality cotton or wool sock is what is actually touching my feet.

    it the grain.
    better leather have less flaw and have finer grain.
    it take practise and lot of study to know good leather.
    it hard when man is green.


    I understand this completely, this is exactly why I am trying to learn more. In my career I (or my team) select and specify hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of top of the line upholstery leather a year. I am pretty well versed in the methods and means of tanning and their results in this regard. I find it quite troubling that in the shoe making world there is a lot of 'insinuation' as to superior leathers without much quantitative information to back it up. Issues such as the finer grain, flaws, etc. etc. can of course be seen. I'm questioning that which is not seen, the reasons why one leather is superior to the other in terms of durability, resistence to creasing, ability to hold a finish/polish, etc. etc. I contend that the differences are quite minor once you get to a certain quality of shoe. Rather - more of the difference is in the care of the clicking and hand finishing than in the actual leather.

    In the world of leather upholstery for instance I know of no one who markets leathers of German origin. Italian leathers lead the herd (pun intended). Why? Not because the tanning or the leather itself is superior from Italy. But because the cows are larger when they are slaughtered, have generally not been kept behind barbed wire fences and thus the result is larger blemish free hides, which is critcal for furniture. What are the similar details in shoe making? I frankly don't know, but would like to.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  15. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    yes,
    it very hard to prove this.
    Controlled study impossible unless many man have various bespoke shoe made of various different leather and wear over many year.
    Me do think more fine grain leather with less flaw last more long than average leather if assume both shoe fit equal well and both look after good.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


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