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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. meister

    meister Senior member

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    3 (beautiful) pairs? This is quasi-Moo behaviour...


    CAPO de TUTTI CAPI

    http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc463/mcobinad/DSC01444.jpg

    Interesting spectator!:fistbump:
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  2. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

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    Then where's that gong?
     


  3. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    Vass budapester use wide stitch but it not so bad.
    Wide inseam stitch like all handmade.
    Midsole stitch is double stitch at 5spi so it equal 10 spi,
    so it good.
    Outsole single stitch at 5 spi so it not so good,
    but it keep sole on.
    It hand carve feather and hand inseam and hand stitch sole so rebuild not damage shoe,
    so it still very good and do job proper.
    Vass not perfect but it made in good way.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  4. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Love it! Down Under c1940s it was "busier than a one armed paper hanger". The latest example (c1980s) was "busier than a bricklayer in Beirut".
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  5. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Gemmed, not-gemmed? - more Pron!

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  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I think you miss the point....or misinterpret it. The idea of 10+ stitches per inch isn't just more stitches. A double line of five per inch is not equal to one line at ten per inch. Nor is forty stitches per inch necessarily four times better than ten per inch. In the first instance, a double line might actually be stronger, in the second, forty stitches per inch might be weaker.

    In a sense one cannot fault a norvegese's long stitches--it does the job and does it well. It just looks amateurish. It could be done reasonably well by a myopic ditch digger.

    Big gestures always suggest ineptitude especially when implemented in situations where refinement is called for--such as when the artifact is itself small...like a shoe. The bull in the china shop.

    Now, I understand that people like the bold rough casual look. I'm not suggesting that personal preferences like that are flawed. But that's just one end of the spectrum. The other end is the shoemaker.

    The shoemaker begins the process by taking raw materials such as leather and thread, and with his skill brings them all together in a creation that is...until it is sold and delivered...his own. The workmanship reflects back upon the maker. It is a signature. It suggests something of his expertise, his judgement and his involvement and respect for the materials.

    Small stitching, if done well, will draw the observer in...to examine the work more closely. To marvel at the care that has been brought to bear. To look at other details.

    And ultimately to appreciate the work and the shoe more than a casual glance would engender.

    Broad gesture, long stitches, can be seen "from the highway." They don't beg for a closer inspection. In some sense, they actually turn the closer look away. Once you've seen the long stitching...from any distance...you've seen it, it's not that interesting, end of story.

    Back in the 19th century....just as the great World's Fairs were getting rolling... shoemakers began doing "exhibition" work for such competitions. All the Trades were doing that kind of thing. The name Gold Medal Flour came from this era.

    In any case, there are examples in the Northampton Museum of shoes...prizework...sewn entirely by hand, uppers and bottoms, at sixty-four stitches per inch.

    Of course such shoes could never be worn...and that's the downside of too many stitches per inch. But the point wasn't to actually wear them, it was to display the finesse and skill of the makers.

    Perhaps the consumer never understands this. Never can. But anyone who has made shoes...from a love of the Trade and with passion...knows it intimately.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2012


  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    If they are Vass, I believe they are entirely hand welted. That's what the books says.

    I'm not sure what the other pair is.

    On Edit: Oh! Alfred Sargent. I don't know. I don't keep track.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2012


  8. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Very nice!

    Only a two month wait - you're lucky.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2012


  9. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    Isshi and Pliny - great shoes!
     


  10. mcobinad

    mcobinad Senior member

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  11. mcobinad

    mcobinad Senior member

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    Thanks! The guy who was in charge of designing my Shannon boots is a family friend who works at EG Northampton factory. For this reason, he put a speed in the process! It's normally between 6-9 months wait depending on their schedule.
     


  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    vass all the way, hands down
     


  13. nmprisons

    nmprisons Senior member

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    I agree. I own a few pairs and handled a bunch of the AS stuff on Saturday when shopping for a new MTO boot. Both the construction and styling of my Vass is (far?) superior to the AS stuff.
     


  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    New Carminas in shell just arrived...very satisfied!

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  15. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

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    ^Nice shells.
     


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