Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    thanks for thinking of me. actually my norwegers are not handstiched. i love them, though. after all they are not gemmed.
     


  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Are you implying that gemmed shoes should have no problem lasting a lifetime with proper manufacturer's recrafting, as long as 1) uppers stay relatively healthy, 2) manufacturers don't go out of business, and 3) I don't go broke paying 1/3 of a new pair of shoes prices for recraft every 5 or so years.

    As far as my limited knowledge goes, the only thing surviving from a recrafting service is the upper and maybe the insoles/gemming. Everything else could be new if necessary, including the insoles/gemming.
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not implying anything...I was near-as-nevermind certain I said exactly that. Of course it depends on how long a lifetime is...of you and of your shoes.
     


  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I don't make Norvegese nor Bentivegna. So, I can't, with good conscience, argue with someone who has. Nor could I comment on how thin a thread can be used. I guess it's what you can get away with but, generally speaking, the thinner the thread, the smaller the stitch.

    But, that said, I have seen Vass and other Novegese done and being done. The Goyser is pretty straight forward and not particularly hard to do once you know the procedure. About the most difficult part might be getting the stitch centered on the inside feather such that the line of stitching is straight. Don't get me wrong that's no picnic but anyone who has hand welted knows what needs to be done.

    Beyond that, on the shoes I saw, the outsole stitching was also a really long stitch. I think this is well illustrated in Handmade Shoes for Men by Lazlo Vass. The thing is that for anyone who has tried to handstitch an outsole at 10+ spi, with a square awl, and get the stitches straight, even, and...as with the masters of this technique...looking, for all the world, like a string of perfect pearls, it's hard to imagine how anyone could say that a long rope-like stitch is harder to do.

    And remember Rees (?) always said that "16 to the inch is middling work." Such fine, even consistent stitching was, is, and for the foreseeable future will be, considered the apex of English shoemaking techniques.

    It is very difficult to do and to control and I don't know anyone living today that would call himself a master.

    And thank you for the vote of confidence.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  5. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Burton

    AS make a great shoe. Unfortunately they don't do the skin stitching of the Dover. (Fritzl falls over)


    Actually I was justrying to save you from having to type out your dislike of the Dover. :)
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    well it's not a dislike per se. i just don't understand the stitching mix. well ok, the heel counter is a deal breaker.
     


  7. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    I know . . we've sang this song before. Today I removed my Dovers from my will and told my son that he should understand they will disintegrate before he can wear them. He was saddened, but even angrier when he learned that his father had been fooled (by gigantic profit mongering corporations like EG, AS , C&G, G+G) into buying gemmed shoes. Heel counters are the least of the problems.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  8. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Most have moved on from this topic...
     


  9. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Yes. I see . . I still, however, see tremendous humour in it.

    Also Fritzl is an Eric Cantona fan so I know he is a good guy and can take a little ribbing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    as i do.
     


  11. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

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    Tremendous humours, more like.
     


  12. mcobinad

    mcobinad Senior member

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    My M.T.O Shannon boots are finally here after 2 months wait! They really look gorgeous in live with the mink contrast! They are 82 last!

    Enjoy!

    [​IMG]
     


  13. Michael Ay329

    Michael Ay329 Senior member

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    mcobinad...your contrasting Shannons look great

    Have you previously owned a pair of balmoral boots...or are these your first?
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  14. mcobinad

    mcobinad Senior member

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    Thanks for the compliment! These boots are my first M.T.O from Edward Green. I do not have Balmoral boots at the moment. Am more conservative regarding shoes in that i tend to stick with brands that have that sleek elegant fitting like EG, John Lobb, Crocket & Jones and Trickers! I do not know how Balmoral Boots fit. Am yet to discover!
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  15. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Very nice!
     


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