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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    I was going to write a serious reply, but decided that since you are intentionaly or unintentionally misquoting me--I won't. If you care to go back and read my posts you will see that wasn't what I was doing. If your legerdemain was intentional--it is beneath you. If it was accidental, please reread my posts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Wait for the gong...
     


  3. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    It is sad to have invested so much time & money in a collection based on a "Quality Assumption" that is being (successfully) challenged by others with knowledge. Also, when you display Arrogance in presenting your personal opinions, it is perfectly understandable to feel the need to vehemently defend one's original stand in the face of incontrovertible facts.

    It is NOT about whether a shoe will last 40 years. It is about KNOWING that YOU have invested in a Top Quality item. AGAIN, almost no one will know or care if you've got some $300 Cole Haans or $1200+ Top Maker shoes. The only reasonable reason for the additional expenditure is if YOU like having & wearing them.

    All the experts are saying is that if your Enjoyment in your EG collection is based on a Quality Assumption, you're way off. Embrace the fact that you simply love the lasts, styling & comfort.
     


  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I am a shoemaker. I think I am a simple man. That said, I try to bring as much thought and consideration to making these posts as I do to my shoemaking.

    But, again, I am a shoemaker, not an English major. Sometimes in my efforts to inform and present facts...I give more information than some readers are capable of handling in one go around.

    But I just wanted to compliment you on the last sentence of your post. You have said something I have been trying to express for many years...here and abroad...and you've done it very succinctly.

    Good on you.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  5. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    This is the problem - the statement is just flat wrong. The assumption is not way off. It is an accurrate assumption until one in your group is willing to provide some real evidence that there has been a 143 year conspiracy to get people to purchase poorly made shoes. In the absence of anything I really want to know how many angels can break dance on the head of a pin?
     


  6. makewayhomer

    makewayhomer Senior member

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    my understanding is that the next young adult aimed dystopian trilogy will take place in an alternative universe 2012, the day after all gemmed shoes in the world have imploded, leading to shoeless world leaders vulnerable to the attacks of humble bespoke shoemakers the world over
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  7. iroh

    iroh Senior member

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    i don't know what gemming is, can you quickly explain it in laymen terms?

    "During outsoling...stitching the outsole on...the old holes in the surface of the welt are used, as well. At least by the more conscientious repairmen. "

    how would the machine be so precise to stitch the thread exactly into the same holes. the operator must be pretty skilled?
     


  8. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    The following video covers the basics...just substitute "leather" for "bread," and "gemming" for "peanut butter" and "jelly."

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     


  9. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Thank Goodness for that! Wouldn't want you to take this all so seriously.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I believe it is your assumptions that are wrong. Spurious even.

    The "conspiracy" is not to get people to buy poorly made shoes, it is to maximize profit...in any way possible. Regardless the consequences.

    And just to emphasize that point...what we are overlooking is that GY construction not only allows manufacturers to use cheaper, poorer quality materials, such as fiberboard insoles, it starts a process that is almost inescapable in western societies that pursue mercenary capitalism.

    As for the angels...as anyone who knows anything...the answer is "legion."
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  11. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Here is the point.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The first shoe is a Norvegese constructed shoe. The second is a Edward Green. Your point is that the first is made using a superior technique. I will concded that point--as I believe it is irrelevant. The Edward Green will last my lifetime (as this shoe already has) The Norvegese will last several lifetimes. The problem is that it will remain an ugly shoe for all of those lifetimes.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  12. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Really??? Really???? Please stay on point.
     


  13. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Clearly have given you too much credit.
     


  14. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    LOL
     


  15. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Gemming is a canvas rib that is cemented to a (usually) cheap or thin insole. The welting is then sewn to the rib. The binding principle is glue.

    The alternative...sometimes referred to as "hand welted'...sews the welt and upper directly to a high quality leather insole, of relatively greater thickness than fiberboard. The binding principle is direct leather to leather with strong cordage (thread) as the medium that effect that connection.

    The machine only needs to be set to approximate the old stitch length. The awl/needle will deflect into the old holes if the stitch length is close.
     


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