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Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    I don't remember, I saved his pic. and inspired me to order a similar one but without the 270 goyser, next time I won't make the same mistake
     
  2. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    :D

    pls post it, ya know...
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  3. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    I wouldn't say, "sucks". Maybe "unexciting" is better. Something a bit lighter and richer would probably be more versatile.
     
  4. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    it's pretty exciting to me.

    Love that colour with gray and navy pants.
     
  5. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    The Vass Goyser is a thing of beauty.
     
  6. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    These are mine, note the lack of the goyser :bored:

    [​IMG]

    These next couple of pairs too, more burgundy love for Patrick

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    +1, as good as it gets, imo.
     
  8. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    That G&G finish is stunning.
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    please post them in the AH topic.

    note, that the first pair is a wiener and according to the tradition it doesn't come with goyserer welt. confusing? mebbe, but that's the way it is.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  10. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Interesting. This reminds me of the dreaded GEMMING debate. I think that Construction, Styling & Finish are ALL important to take into account when judging a "Shoe Porn Shoe".

    Styling is a subjective issue. Love or hate, there is no real wrong answer... notwithstanding those who have judged themselves the styling experts and therefore should judge for us all.

    Finish can also be subjective to a point. Although I really like some of the antique finishing I've seen, ESPECIALLY by G&G and some others, some find it un-necessary, excessive and even garish. There is something to be said about a flat colored shoe that's done very well and tastefully.

    Construction, however, is OBJECTIVE. Quality is quality and shortcuts are shortcuts. Higher price should mean higher quality, right?

    [​IMG]

    Here it is, in all its glory... the Goodyear welted and GEMMED construction. The tan cloth I circled is just that. Tan cloth that has been glued, by a machine, to the insole. That cloth is in turn stitched to the welt, then the rest of the shoe.

    I find it interesting to note that Goodyear welting is usually diagrammed like THIS...

    [​IMG]

    As if the gemmed piece of cloth was an actual part of the insole itself. It is not.

    Essentially, this piece of glued cloth holds many of your your $1k+ shoes together (in the case of EG and others). Don't care? That's fine with me. I DO recall a debate about G&G eliminating the notch between the heel and the sole which signifies that the heel was built separately (If I'm off a bit in this, please correct me). Was that detail necessary? NO! However, some G&G buyers felt that such a small detail was a big part of WHY they enjoyed the brand so much. Because it is Top Notch Constructed.

    This is similar to how I feel about many Vintage Shoes. Hand-stitched and Hand-welted is definitely a factor in my shoe-buying decisions, and I feel that presenting models that are Hand-made is definitely a step in the right direction of earning "Shoe Porndom". No reason to argue the other factors. I like the styles while some others may not. Although I enjoy Artificial Patina (which is REALLY what antiquing is), I prefer a Real one.

    I can appreciate both and would appreciate respect of my right to post them here, just as I appreciate the right of some others to post Glued Shoes here as well.

    I suppose if "vintage styling" disqualifies shoes from this thread, then Glued Shoes should be disqualified as well?
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    :facepalm:

    I can't look!
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    again, thank you for this. much appreciated.
     
  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What evidence do you have that your shoes are 'hand-welted hand-stitched'? Can you show a picture of one shoe that you have taken apart?

    Here is a film (from the 40s, maybe early 50s) that shows the way a welted shoe was produced at the time. Your shoes would have been made in a rather similar fashion. "Gemming" (from about 3:00 on) did exist back then, although it was different as the back of the entire insole had a canvas layer glued-on to prevent the folded-up leather holdfast to rip off.


    [VIDEO]! [/VIDEO]
     
  14. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Once upon a time, when the Goodyear technique was in its infancy, a good, relatively speaking, leather insole was cut (channeled) from the feather inward and another from where we commonly begin the channel today. This produced two flaps of insole leather which were turned upright and glued together to form a sort of holdfast that looks like your illustration. The welt was then stitched to that "wall" of leather.

    The downside was that in order to do this the two channel cuts had to very nearly meet, which made the "holdfast" very weak. And to further compound the issue, the holdfast was turned such that a great deal of stress was placed on the remaining, and critically attaching, fibers.

    As I understand it...I wasn't there and I've never seen written documentation to support this...the problem was addressed by covering the leather holdfast with linen or canvas cloth. The beginning of gemming...and the end of any pretense of quality being "job one" for most manufacturers.

    Bottom line, however, is that while this may have been a partial solution it still required a decent quality leather insole. Which costs money. And it added one more procedure. And more time.

    And time is money.

    So eventually the leather holdfast was eliminated and that meant that a cheaper leather insole could be used (or even a synthetic insole material). And one less step.

    A win/win for everybody except the customer looking for quality.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2012
  15. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    I plan to deconstruct 1 shoe from each and every pair I own in order to PROVE they are hand-welted! What a fabulous idea. Why didn't I think of that myself? Next, I'll cut off one leg so I won't look all crazy hopping around with a bare foot.

    Yeah, that's the ticket.
     
  16. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    I missed your insights recently. Thanks for contributing!
     
  17. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    So back to gemming then? There's about 6 people on the planet who truly give one whole shit that their shoes are gemmed.
     
  18. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    No debate, as you are obviously a Glued Shoe fan. I will NOT argue with your SUBJECTIVE opinion that it does not matter, convenient as it is for you (with a closet full of 'em most likely). Feel free to post them and compliment them as well!

    No need for a separate thread either, as I accept that inferiorly constructed shoes have a right to be posted right alongside the Handmades.

    See how simple it can be to all get along?
     
  19. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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  20. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    look VERY nice. Details, please.
     

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