Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. DLKY

    DLKY Senior member

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    John Lobb Socosi home shoes... thanks to SFer SimonC for the heads up!

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  2. DLKY

    DLKY Senior member

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    My first pair of Saint Crispins... model 524 chukka on the chiseled last. The finishing appears to be the best out of all of my RTW shoes..



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  3. Northampton Novice

    Northampton Novice Senior member

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    Nice shoes but I have to say, I am really taken by the shoetrees!
     


  4. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    they are amazing. some next level shit.
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    If you look close at the photo of the right shoe you can see that the repairman trimmed the outsole right up to the welt stitching on the lateral side. This contributes to the appearance of having changed the shape of the shoe....which it has, effectively, even if the interior shape is much the same as it was.

    More than that, however, trimming the outsole and the welt so close, makes it far more likely that the stitching will fail and the shoe will need a major repair in the near future...one that involves re-welting.

    And to add insult to injury, the repair is a simple cement job. The new half sole ignores the fact that the old outsole was originally stitched as a means of construction and the replacement relies entirely on cement to hold the outsole in place. One of the big problems with that approach is that either the old sole was not entirely removed or the new out sole is adhering only to the welt...which is narrow (less than a half inch) to begin with and has now been trimmed even narrower.

    Especially if the shoe is GY, there is virtually nothing of any substance between the thin margin of the welt on either side of the shoe for a new sole to stick to...the intervening space being either cork or felt or foam. Once the original stitching is compromised, even the remnant of the original outsole (if there is a remnant) is jeopardized.

    In other words, the outsole stitching is/was there for a reason...installing a half sole without re-stitching is half-assed, IMO.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    DWF, could the shoe have changed shape due to slipping gemming when the old sole was removed?
     


  7. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    So this is a really technical way of saying what I said. :nodding:
     


  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Patrick,

    Yes, of course but one wants to assume the best and avoid assuming things that aren't verifiable. I can see the too close trimmed welt, I can't see what's happened to the gemming or the inseam.

    There are lots of ways for this kind of thing to happen, especially with shoes of marginal quality (and VTG doesn't necessarily equal quality).

    For instance, thin insoles or insoles materials that are the darling of manufacturers and the everything-that's-modern-is-beautiful crowd can often be twisted or even "rolled" up on themselves when the new sole is being replaced. In other words, a fiberboard or paper insole can be made narrower (or the shape distorted) as the outsole is being replaced. In this case, the gemming doesn't need to be loose for the whole inseam to be pushed inward against a flimsy insole.

    Or another example...simply adhering the half sole to the stub of the old outsole at an incorrect angle (an angle that will not allow the half sole to completely cover the forepart of the insole) will force the repairman to twist the half sole in order to get it in place. The tension that this twisting brings can distort the forepart of the shoe...again, especially if the insole has no real structural integrity.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    :cheers: Well, yes...I didn't disagree with your assessment but sometimes an explanation will actually increase understanding...for those who want it. By referencing the photo I offered evidence rather than casual speculation.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2011


  10. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    DWF - was really a joke and not a shot at you or your explanation--cllearly of greater value to have the expert opine and provide the technical details.
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    No worries...sorry if I came across too brusque. (I went back and edited the post to temper that a little.)
     


  12. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    cigar cap toe
    argyles otc
     


  13. Prada_Ferragamo

    Prada_Ferragamo Senior member

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    Christmas present from SO:

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  14. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    My first pair of Saint Crispins... model 524 chukka on the chiseled last. The finishing appears to be the best out of all of my RTW shoes..
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    Good looking pair of boots, how much did they run you if you wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks.

    -LR
     


  15. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    For those interested in that sort of thing, I picked up a lot of old Nettleton shoe trees from a seller on ebay. Nettleton was at one time perhaps the highest quality American RTW maker ("The World's Slowest Made Shoes").

    Note the hole drilled into them that allows for venting from the insole. The knobs also turn allowing them to extend. In the last picture is a side by side with later Nettleton shoe trees I have. Although nice, they aren't in the same league as these early ones.

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