Shoe Damage Report & Shoe P0rn Central - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Oyaji, Feb 20, 2010.

  1. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Part of the difference in contemporary leathers is also the chemicals used in dying. Until the 20th century the composition of Aniline dyes contained actual Aniline, which is toxic. Today they use synthetic dyes which produce the deep, rich, aniline effect but are less toxic.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2011


  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Less time in the tanning pits is not an necessarily an "improvement."The best soling leathers in the world spend up to 12 months or more in the pits. Nevertheless most modern tanneries/finishers aim/strive for less time from start to finish.

    Aniline dyes are still toxic regardless of where the dyestuff comes from. Modern aniline dyes derive their colours from coal tar derivatives and they are carried/solved in highly toxic chemicals. Toxic to the environment, toxic to the chemists, toxic to the person using the dye..

    The best and most distinguishing characteristic of aniline dye is its ability to penetrate the dense grain of the leather. The very best leathers will be "struck through" --meaning that the dye will penetrate from grain to flesh with none of the characteristic "chrome blue" colour in the center that marks the next grades down.

    Aniline dyes are also "transparent". Natural flaws, if any, on the surface will show. This is different from non-aniline leathers which are finished with an opaque "paint job" to finalize the colour.

    Good aniline dyed leather allows you to "look into" the leather...there is a depth and a three-dimensionality to aniline leathers that is absent in surface only finishes.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2011


  3. Anden

    Anden Senior member

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    My current work stable. Missing is a pair of Church´s tassels.
    Upper left. Black C&J Hallam. Upper right Dark brown C&J Lowndes.
    Lower left, Burgundy penny loafers from New & Lingwood. Lower right, Alden tassels Cordovan #8.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am curious if there is any benefit to using aniline powder mixed with cream polishes for more permanent color depositing?
     


  5. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I am not privy to the processes for making shoe creams but I suspect something very like that is done to make coloured shoe creams.

    That said, there is not a lot of dye in a cream (just enough to dye your fingers if you apply it "by hand" :D.

    Remember that aniline dyes are 'transparent," so while you may not see a lot of colour change with a single application of cream, over time the dye will strike. For instance if you use a brun nuit cream on a cognac leather, the leather will change colour. Slowly...but depending on the cream, more or less irreversibly.
     


  6. Anden

    Anden Senior member

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    Does anyone know who makes the black cordovan double monk for Tommy Hilfiger?
     


  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I have noticed that even with wax polish over time the color does set in. If you try and glob it on all at once you get a messy, streaky build-up. I guess the brushing, buffing, re-application, conditioning and such picks up loose polish and color while slowly letting the color set in.
     


  8. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Bally Scribes , Cross poast from Rock your Shoes, Socks, Trou, threak.

    [​IMG]

    Too big for me (A roomy US 8.5D). But they sure are sweet!
     


  9. ljrcustom

    ljrcustom Senior member

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    I am going to see if JL can shorten and then restitch the strap, so that it won't be so long.

    -LR
     


  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The conditioners and waxes in the creams and polishes also have a masking effect. Aniline dye in any concentration will strike a lot faster on dry leather than on leather that has been oiled or waxed...the same concept applies with creams. The dye is floating in the oils and waxes.
     


  11. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    Bally Scribe are the most underrated shoes on SF!! Nice looking and very well constructed.
     


  12. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    Not sure I would go to that length (pardon the pun) but I think the shoe would be enhanced by a shorter strap.
     


  13. HORNS

    HORNS Senior member

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    On a side note, you know what sucks ass? That I was feeling pretty content with my life until I just realized that I will never be remembered as a "poet-fascist-lover". :(
     


  14. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    ravello lwb
    argyles otc
     


  15. fullb

    fullb Senior member

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